What are y'all running for a fuel cell. Required by SVRA:
M: Fuel Cells
Fuel Cells: All cars, other than pre-war, must have a Fuel Cell that meets FIA FT-3 specification or equivalent SFI 28.3 specification. The Fuel Cell “Bladder” must be maintained according to the manufactures recommendations.
There must be a solid bulkhead (fire wall) completely separating the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel cell, filler neck hoses, and/or vent lines, from the drivers compartment. Vent lines must exit the trunk/bodywork area.
Full Version: Fuel Cell
4 cylinder needs a 10 gallon
6 cylinder 12 or more
we went 15 gallon aluminum for enduro's
you can move the weight of the cell through the bulkhead for weight shift.
in my build thread
6 cylinder 12 or more
we went 15 gallon aluminum for enduro's
you can move the weight of the cell through the bulkhead for weight shift.
in my build thread
Clean McQueen. What brand is the cell?
Mine is a 4 cyl and probably not going to enduro race so 10 gal should suffice.
Love your oil coolers too. Very tidy.
Thanks!
Mine is a 4 cyl and probably not going to enduro race so 10 gal should suffice.
Love your oil coolers too. Very tidy.
Thanks!
It’s a fuel safe bladder in a one off aluminum shell
A local fab guy produced the shell for the same price as the standard steel shell
A local fab guy produced the shell for the same price as the standard steel shell
QUOTE(brant @ Dec 13 2019, 10:29 AM) 
It’s a fuel safe bladder in a one off aluminum shell
A local fab guy produced the shell for the same price as the standard steel shell
Lovely.
BTW, my driveline was built by AJRS too. He's top notch. The rest of the car was assembled by the customer at the time. Work is good but not great in some spots..
Going through it now - hopes for ready next season.
I'm running a ATL 12 gallon in my -6. I'll track down a photo and post shortly
Mine's a fuel safe 15 gal with the internal pickup box that traps fuel through little trap doors.
Note the screen type in line filter on the pickup line. Highly recommend it. There was enough debris on it to starve the engine by my second tank of fuel. Looked like bits of plastic so not happy with Fuel Safe. I clean it out every race day and still get a bit after two years so look into the ATL first, just sayin.
Note the screen type in line filter on the pickup line. Highly recommend it. There was enough debris on it to starve the engine by my second tank of fuel. Looked like bits of plastic so not happy with Fuel Safe. I clean it out every race day and still get a bit after two years so look into the ATL first, just sayin.
Another pic...
I sent my steel tank to Fuel Safe in Bend Oregon where they cut the tank and fitted a bladder. Ran it for many years and recently had the bladder replaced with a fresh one.
Good solution if you want stock tank converted to race legal configuration. Forward mounted location did not appeal to me due to elevated risk of rupture in front end collision. My tank is stock steel behind steel stock bulkhead.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Good solution if you want stock tank converted to race legal configuration. Forward mounted location did not appeal to me due to elevated risk of rupture in front end collision. My tank is stock steel behind steel stock bulkhead.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Dec 14 2019, 10:04 AM)
Mine's a fuel safe 15 gal with the internal pickup box that traps fuel through little trap doors.
Note the screen type in line filter on the pickup line. Highly recommend it. There was enough debris on it to starve the engine by my second tank of fuel. Looked like bits of plastic so not happy with Fuel Safe. I clean it out every race day and still get a bit after two years so look into the ATL first, just sayin.
John,
about the contaminate are you finding in the filter
that is so weird....
is it small pieces of the fuel cell foam? (same color as the foam perhaps)
I know they disintegrate after a few years and replacing the cell foam (crazy expensive) is a maintenance item now and then.
I pull my fuel filter 1x a year and it is almost always absolutely clean
I have found a blade of grass in it once, and other small items.
but 2 out of 3 years it is spotless.
weird.
brant
QUOTE(brant @ Dec 16 2019, 09:58 AM)
QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Dec 14 2019, 10:04 AM)
Mine's a fuel safe 15 gal with the internal pickup box that traps fuel through little trap doors.
Note the screen type in line filter on the pickup line. Highly recommend it. There was enough debris on it to starve the engine by my second tank of fuel. Looked like bits of plastic so not happy with Fuel Safe. I clean it out every race day and still get a bit after two years so look into the ATL first, just sayin.
John,
about the contaminate are you finding in the filter
that is so weird....
is it small pieces of the fuel cell foam? (same color as the foam perhaps)
I know they disintegrate after a few years and replacing the cell foam (crazy expensive) is a maintenance item now and then.
I pull my fuel filter 1x a year and it is almost always absolutely clean
I have found a blade of grass in it once, and other small items.
but 2 out of 3 years it is spotless.
weird.
brant
Some black specks, some foam bits... still get a bit on the screen about every 2 hours on track. Now it's just a 5 minute part of the fueling drill just take it apart squirt a shot of brake keen in reverse direction & blow it out. Not happy though.
that still sucks..
and not like you need one more thing to do at the track
and not like you need one more thing to do at the track
How old is the bladder and foam? It should not be spalling.
I have a nearly 20-yr-old ATL and the bladder is still in good shape. Car was stored inside in a climate-controlled garage and was never let with fuel sitting in it. I removed it from the container, pulled out all the old foam bits (foam was degrading), fully inspected the bladder and re-used it with new foam.
Some orgs require bladder replacement after 5 years (SCCA does not), I never saw the need. I remove and inspect mine annually replace the foam every five years or so, and pump out all the fuel before winter storage.
I have a nearly 20-yr-old ATL and the bladder is still in good shape. Car was stored inside in a climate-controlled garage and was never let with fuel sitting in it. I removed it from the container, pulled out all the old foam bits (foam was degrading), fully inspected the bladder and re-used it with new foam.
Some orgs require bladder replacement after 5 years (SCCA does not), I never saw the need. I remove and inspect mine annually replace the foam every five years or so, and pump out all the fuel before winter storage.
BTW, those trap door systems aren't as necessary any more. Check out the Holley Hydramat, it's freakin' magic. Watch some videos and you'll be a convert.
QUOTE(GregAmy @ Dec 17 2019, 11:40 AM)
BTW, those trap door systems aren't as necessary any more. Check out the Holley Hydramat, it's freakin' magic. Watch some videos and you'll be a convert.
I can't add anything useful about fuel cells, but I have used a Hydramat and the things are really awesome.
Thanks all!
I'm settling in on an ATL Saver bladder and innards. I'll build my own case for it. They've got excellent directions and I've got a friend with a full sheet metal shop. Will be less than $60 in materials and will save on order of $300.
I'll be building some other sheet metal bits while I'm at it - ductwork for oil cooler and brake cooling, etc.
Will post pics when done.
Cheers!
I'm settling in on an ATL Saver bladder and innards. I'll build my own case for it. They've got excellent directions and I've got a friend with a full sheet metal shop. Will be less than $60 in materials and will save on order of $300.
I'll be building some other sheet metal bits while I'm at it - ductwork for oil cooler and brake cooling, etc.
Will post pics when done.
Cheers!
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