Putting the finishing touches on the Tangerine Racing remote oil cooler set up. It's a tight fit but what a great design. The fan/thermostat requires a switched power source. Draws 5 amps when running continuously.

Any ideas for power ?? Can I splice out the lead for the fuel pump ?? I run carbs and have the Carter rotary pump located forward. Heavy gauge wire to that location to help with loss. Any other locations a possibility ??

Thanks all

You could pull switched power from pin 8 (black wire) on the 14 pin relay board connector, or terminal 1 from the 4 pin relay board connector and use that to switch a relay. The fuel pump lead could also work to power the fan directly, depends on how much the fuel pump and fan combo draws.

When I had a fan on my rear mounted cooler, I used a thermostat switch and left it permanently wired "on". A simple fused wire to the battery and you're done.

Pin 12 on the 12-pin plug is 12V switched for the AAR. You will need to check the wire gage in the main harness to see if it has the ampacity for 5A. You might want to run a relay and just use it for a switched signal.

Very timely of a question. I am working on this myself.

Planned on using a relay and was interested in finding a switched 12V power source for the relay. Will be using a thermostat to trigger the relay for the fan. and the AAR wire should be perfect.

I run two oil coolers on my six conversion. Both have fans that run from a thermo switch in the inlet oil line of the first cooler. The power comes from the positive post on the starter, and runs through a fuse to the relay.

You really don't need a switched power for a thermostatically controlled fan. The coolers on my car will run for a minute or two after the car has been stopped. And that is a good thing. It cools down the oil in the coolers and doesn't leave a lot of residual heat under the car.

To expand on that a bit, this is the same feed as the fuel pump, power from the fuel pump relay tees off and goes to both spots on the relay board.