Still working on my son's '74 2.0. Replaced the oil cooler seals with the motor in the car, put the heat shields back but not the heating system and drove it maybe 25 miles.

We have fresh oil on the shield coming down from the #4 cylinder area. I was figuring the pushrod tube seals were gone, and there is some evidence of that, but it almost seems like there is oil coming from above the pushrod tubes.

My thought is I screwed up the oil cooler seals, or the oil cooler is bad, or there is something I don't know about on this corner of the motor that can leak.

New valve cover gaskets are good.

Any ideas? Just about ready to pull the motor to find out. If we go that far, we will replace the oil cooler just in case, but looking for clues.

TIA-

Rob

really difficult to replace cooler seals while engine in car. not impossible, but difficult. I would suggest dropping engine, then you can do seals, clean, pushrod tube seals and valve adjustement very easily. also gives a good view of any other issues. fwiw

It wasn't the easiest thing I've ever done, but it wasn't impossible. I could do it the second time much easier now that there are clean threads on the studs and I have the tools dialed in.

I really don't see any direct evidence of that being the oil leak. I'm almost leaning towards the oil cooler itself.

My question is really-is there anything else in that area that could leak under pressure?

the filter console, pushrod tube seals, cylinder bases, etc. yeah there is other shit that can leak. don't forget front main seal or even the case halves.

You said it might be coming from above. Have you checked the oil pressure sender? I've heard that sometimes that can be a leak spot.

Oil coolers do fail. I thought I lost the seals 3 months ago. Turns out the cooler was leaking.

There are definitely lots of places oil can leak from.

I was wondering about the cylinder bases. There’s no pressurized oil but the crankcase oil can just leak around the base?

I vote oil pressure sender leak and/or the replaced seals aren’t sealing completely. Changing seals in the car is def doable, but it’s all feel. There may be something preventing the seal that’s easier seen than felt.

No real point in doing what you have without doing pushrod tube seals,they all start leaking as a group and gang together to help the front and rear crank seals to leak

Drop the motor. Biggest mistake made when working on these cars is trying to avoid a motor drop. It really isn't hard to do. Motor drops are the nature of the beast with mid engine cars.

See @cuddy_k YouTube video how to on engine drop. . . And subscribe to his channel while you're there!

I’m rapidly coming to that conclusion.

Anyone have a Tangerine Racing engine cradle for sale?

Just rip off the band aid and drop the motor:) it’s really not hard. After you do it once you’ll never hesitate again. Having a helper makes it even easier. link to the video in my signature below.

If you have a large floor jack and a hoist, Tangerine's lifting plate really helps. http://tangerineracing.com/tools.htm

There's several creative ways to drop a 914 power plant if you don't have a hoist

Don't hesitate to buy new from Chris if need be. If you're going to staying around 914's it will be money well spent. There are two types depending on what type of jack pad you have. Check your jack before ordering.

I was doing 914 motor drops on a dirt driveway (with plywood laid down to work off) with nothing more than a K-mart 2 ton jack before Chris invented his jack plate. It was sort of miserable in hindsight but it was what had to be done at the time and wasn't too terrrible given that was the only option I had at the time.

I think it was beyond a doubt money well spent on Chris' jack plate. I'm just PO'd that someone didn't invent it sooner. Props to Chris. Reward his effort to invent and bring to market if you can afford to do so.

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

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