Hi everyone,
Started today to remove some undercoating in the rear wheel arches, see picture...
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When using a (blunt) chisel is comes of rather easily. Any advise on removing it in the corners of the arches…? Especially in the rear it is almost impossible to reach the far corners...

I also found the foam in the rear of the panels near the rear lights (yellow circle). With a hook I'm picking it out. Any tips on doing this more easily…?

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Till now I did not find any rust. The car is from 12/73 and 1.8 L-jet in olympic blue.

That foam was ironically installed to prevent rust. It ended retaining water and causing rust.

I was able to remove it by cleaning off the top layer of sealant, then spraying it with carb cleaner. The carb cleaner dissolves it and it runs out the bottom. You will have to repaint in the fender if you do it that way.

Clay

I took a long big welding rod, sharpened a tip on it and scraped little by little until it was all out. Could bend it to the shape I needed at the time. Took a while and hopefully was worth it

Torch.

Per Jeff Hail recommendation Wurth DBS 3600 with the wire flail wheel simply tears though the factory seam sealer and makes easy work of it. It is pricey but worth it. There are 1/2 price alternatives though Eastwood and one other place (forget the name).

https://www.wurthusa.com/Tools/Air-Tool-Par...Case/p/07033601

All depends on what your time is Wurth (pun ). It tears simply tears though undercoating even easier without damaging the metal below it. Other methods work but this tool as designed for professional use for exactly this task where time = money.

Heat the metal on the other side then scrape off.
Huge mess, time and wear a resperator as I hear this stuff gives off toxins.

Many thanks for good suggestions, will give it a try…

Happy holidays…!

Purchase this from HF, extended angle grinder and a wire brush wheel, cut the 1/4 stud off the wheel and drill hole to fit grinder. I did my entire exterior floor and inner fenders in four hours. Best, MarkClick to view attachment

I like it. The low profile head will have advantages over the Wurth tool in tight quarters. I don't know that I've ever seen that tool in a HF store but I'll be looking next time!

Just be sure to wear a face shield. Spinning a wire wheel at air tool speeds can shed those wires as very dangerous little projectiles.

Superhawk996, and I think it was only $25.00. really worked great up in the tight 914 inner fenders.

The extended angle grinder is really clever, will get one asap... Many thanks for sharing!

Today I continued working in de rear fenders... I remove from one side the seal sealer and foam. See the big piece I got out...

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It wasn't very much sticking to the bare metal... There is no rust to be found luckily!

Nice. Get that foam out and leave it out.

I think I'd even want a full face respirator for that...

I've been wearing a respirator (besides a face shield) for cutting, grinding, blasting etc. Trying to keep the nasty stuff out of my lungs.

Definitely the most satisfying. Burn that garbage out. I ain't wasting wear on abrasive tools and time for that worthless poo.