Hi All,

I love this community. I have used the search function a bazillion times to gather invaluable information to help troubleshoot and DIY's on my 73 2.0 fuel injection.
I have been working on the body for years and have it in pretty good shape. The interior as well is almost done. I have gone through the suspension and replaced shocks and tie rods.
New vacuum hoses, rebuilt injectors and all new stainless steel fuel lines.
I have worked my way around the engine, and still need to put a new CHT on as it reads cool.
Any whoo, I did a compression test today and these were my readings.

1. 110
2. 105
3. 100
4. 130


Some big variances there.
Spark plugs are all dark.

Is it rebuild time?

Recommendations on best DIY rebuild sources books, blogs, youtubes, this forum etc.

I want to keep it pretty much stock but am interested in putting the european style pistons in the car.

Any other recommendations and opinions are much appreciated.

Thanks,

Gary

Are those cold or hot compression numbers? Yes, they're not great, but they are better than my old 2056 which actually still ran pretty strong. How does it run?

If you are leaning toward, or looking for a reason to, rebuild, then go for it -- it's a good learning experience, but it will cost you more than you might expect. You'll likely end up "wanting to do it right while you're in there." That's not a bad sentiment, it just ends up costing $$, and hopefully you will have a really solid, reliable engine.

In terms of resources, I would recommend:

1. Raby rebuild video
2. Tom Wilson VW rebuild book
3. This forum
4. This guy's site who did a good job documenting start to finish: http://www.ephotomotion.com/914engine/index01.html

Also, make sure you have an end goal in mind before you start buying parts. A 2056 is a nice little upgrade from stock 2.0, if you're willing to do some tuning.

Thank you much for all the great information and insight. I will research what a 2056 rebuild is. Yes I am game for paying extra now for no regret down the line.
Those compression numbers were done with the engine hot. It runs decent. a little rough and the previous owner put hydraulic lifters in it.
My plan would be to do the rebuild without the hydraulic lifters but again am open to opinion and input. The car will not be a daily driver commuter.


Thanks again for you input.

Gary

A treasure map from the Haynes manual that came with the car.
Not sure what it means.

Good or bad.

Any interpreters out their would be appreciated.

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One more in the notes.

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Did you prop the throttles open when performing the compression test ?
Has the engine been run and driven regularily ?.....or dormant for long periods ?
If you know the paperwork refers to your engine I wouldn't jump into a rebuild without further investigation.

You may already have a 2056. That's at least what the notes are showing (96 mm cylinder with 71 mm crank). Some of those numbers on there are someone calculating the compression ratio based on combustion chamber and deck height.

Your mystery to solve is: is that what you really have in the car, or is that just someone's scribbling? Only way to know for sure would be to remove heads and measure the diameter of one of the cylinders.

More info:

CR is the calculated Compression Ratio (either 8.7 or 8.9 in his notes). I haven't run this person's number to check, but CR is going to be based on combustion chamber volume in head (61 cc according to the notes), deck (plus shim) height, stroke (71 mm for stock 2.0 crank). and bore or diameter of cylinder (96 mm, versus 94 for stock 2.0).

Displacement (2056) is based on engine bore (96 mm) x swept volume (71 mm) x 4 cylinders.

2056 is a nice engine from stock as the cylinders drop right in without machining, it doesn't over stress the components, and it can use stock FI induction (with tuning) if desired.

Here, this is something fun to play with: https://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html

Did you adjust the valves before?
Did run the engine before so it was warm and had oil hot?
Big difference between a cold test vs a warm engine usually.

No I did not prop the throttle open.
I run it about once a week. Sometimes longer stretches between drives. Typically 3 mile-10 miles cruises.
Sometimes it will sit longer depending on current projects on the car.

Thanks much for the questions and weighing in.

Much appreciated.

Wow. Great info. Thanks much for taking the time. It seems like it’s getting close to engine drop time. I am keeping my fingers crossed regarding what lies beneath those cylinder heads.
The car is a fuel injection and the valves are very loud. (Hydraullic)
I have never adjusted the valves on the car.

I have never adjusted the valves
I did run the engine so it was warm
/hot
Thanks for questions and looking forward to your thoughts on my situation.
Thanks,

Gary

To add to the story of this car.
I bought it 2014.
It was originally owned in Southern California and was used as a trade by a heavy equipment operator doing work on their home.
I purchased the car from the heavy equipment operator who near resided in Joshua Tree
National park, near Mojave desert.
It was a runner when I purchased it. He told me at the time of purchase that the original owner had put hydraulic lifters in it because he got tired of doing valve adjustments.
I don’t know the difference other than when you start up the car and it’s seems for a while it ticks pretty loud. I joke and say it sounds like a lawn mower.
Lots of surface rust. 2 years later car was stripped and painted.The car was crusty to say the least, and have since gone through and cleaned up the interior, new windshield,
All new rubber (thanks 914rubber). Doors, locks, fuel injectors, new as fuel lines, clutch cable, led lighting upgrades all the way around, dash top, rebuild of targa top (almost complete) recovered seats, new sail panel covers, interior tub reinforcement runners brackets (tangerine racing), windshield. There’s more but I can’t remember off the top of my head.

In summary I have gone down the slippery slope and am enjoying every minute of it.

I am not a natural mechanic but read and learn like crazy.
Hence all the information and input everyone shares is invaluable.

Thanks again for reading and all of your input,

Gary

Before removing engine
Re-do the comp test on warm engine with throttles wide open.
You might be pleasantly surprised.
Someone knowledgible enough to measure everything so
thoroughly would never install a hydraulic compatable cam.
Verify what is in there. Maybe a change of lifters is in order.
Maybe there was an in-between owner who committed that sin ?.....
without a hydraulic cam ?

Here are a couple of photos of it over time.
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A couple more.
Some wet sanding and polishing in progress.

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And one last.
I did decide to badge the car. Yes I have read all the backs and forth.
Personally I love this car and think it deserves the badge.

Thanks again for all the input

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Ok. I will re do the compression test with the throttle wide open and report back later today.

I am not sure what I am looking for when it comes to determining if there are hydraulic lifters and cams in the car. Any resources or tips on what to look for would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary

wow congratulations on your beautiful project! For me I will install back that engine and enjoy it as is. Maybe just need some more tuning for now and your good to go! And I think after driving it for awhile, you will ended up wanting to do a 6 conversion.

Wow. What a difference in readings with the throttle wide open.

1. 160
2. 160
3. 150
4. 170

What conclusions can be drawn from these reading?

Thanks,

Gary

Thanks for the encouragement

Hydraulic lifters so valve adjustment is zero lash.
If you do push rod seals you can pull one lifter out and confirm if it's hydraulic.

Hydraulic lifters need a hydraulic cam, it won't work with solid lifters.

Hi Mark,

Is this the conclusion based on the new readings?

Meaning, you think based on those new numbers I have hydraulic lifters and cams?

Consensus is to get rid of them, if I do that what should I get in there place?

What are your recommendations for next steps?

Thanks for the input. The experience and knowledge is much appreciated.

Gary

Warm with throttle open

1. 160
2. 160
3. 150
4. 170

A wee bit better, eh?

Yeah i didn't see the new numbers before I posted...I'd run it.

Set at zero lash if it's hydraulic cam/lifters.

You would have to split the case and replace the cam, special hydraulic cam for hydraulic lifters, it won't work solid lifters. Same deal vice versa you can't run hydraulic lifters on a cam made for solid lifters.

Thanks for the feedback!

I wouldn’t be in a hurry to get rid of the hydros, unless you’re doing a full on rebuild. The PO of my ‘74 2.0 w/fi put in hydros during a rebuild and I’ve been running it since 2006. I’ve been told it’s pretty gutsy for a 2.0 and I have no complaints. The heads were off a couple years ago and showed no cracks, for what that’s worth.

You’re doing a great job bringing your 914 back. Drive it like you stole it.

The most likely scenario is the engine was assembled with an appropriate cam IF those
notes apply to the present engine.
You now know you have good compression. If it has hydraulics they are not compatable
with a performance cam.
Change to solids. You have nothing to lose but a much larger expense.
Learn how to adjust valves.

Must be a fairly fresh motor with high comp pistons or high compression ratio ,with those numbers,if the motor has been sitting after some time it could well improve over time,#3 is a little low however,are the valves set right? mate had a hyd T25 that wouldn't run great and I found the valve setting was wrong,from memory the pushrods should all rotate @ TDC with zero-ish lash.
We found a tight valve on one exhaust and the other on an intake,bloody thing ran like a clock after that .
Some may comment further as the only time I have dealt with them and that was years ago.

Great insight and knowledge sharing.
Thank you all.

I am going to drop the motor to take care of a couple of oil leaks and clean the engine and transmission up along with the bay.

I am going to read up on valve adjusting on hydraulic lifters, and change out the platinum plugs for copper or regular and change any seals on engine and transmission that need to be addressed.

I have identified a nasty oil leak at the oil cooler and hope it is only the 0 ring seals.
I will have it tested at a shop just in case.

Other than that are there any other recommendations for "while you are in there" ?

I did replace the transmission mounts, as well as new bearing and rubber bushings in the trailing arms. Brakes have been rebuilt as well as CV's, using this forum as a resource.

Thanks much again.

Gary

Drive it and enjoy it.

Looks to me that you have a lot of miles and fun ahead of you, enjoy.

Dropped the motor to clean up engine bay, tins, and the engine itself. I do not plan on rebuilding, because of favorable compression readings with very few miles put on the car in the last 5 years. I will check the valves and the lifters to be sure everything is functioning as it should.
I am also going to address the oil leaks which most of the oil is seeping from the oil cooler. Any other potential trouble spots I should address while the engine is out?
No leaks on the seam of the case.
Here are some picks of the before. Some gunk from fire extinguisher. (long story but I saved her)

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Images too large to add all in this one, will add the other in an additional post.

And a few others. Will post progress soon.



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Up to my elbows in dirty oil, lots of simple green and scrubbing. All the tins have been removed and painted along with other paintable accessories.
The big surprise was that the second valve for cylinder 1 has a substantial piece of metal missing on the cap. I did find a lose chunk pictured but it’s not the whole piece. Needless to say based on this I am not sure if I should crack the case.
As suspected the cylinders are 96mm with flat head pistons.

I am including small pictures this time in hopes of being able to show what I have found

Image of the broken spring cap
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This piece fell out
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More debris
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This lifter came apart and some of the inside fell out when I tilted the motor.
Can anyone tell me if these are hydraulic?

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Yes that's a hydro lifter....What's left of it.

Thanks Mark. The other lifters still have a little wire like retaining clip and are intact.

Thanks for the confirmation.

My advice is to dig into the case and do a full rebuild.

Yikes!

I have already made the decision to go with regular lifters. I am teetering between staying fuel injection or going with a bigger cam and carburetor.
Would love the brain trusts input. I want to stay with the 96mm big bore and no machining.
Thanks,

Gary

I had dual carbs originally and after putting back on the Djet FI in 1998 I loved the car. No more hard starts, stinky gas smell etc.
Car now has a 2056 in it with Raby cam, HAM heads with 44x38 valves and is about 125hp. Car screams for a 4 cylinder.

Awesome. Thanks for the input. Really helps.

A few images of tear down progress

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