I may have to set my idle down slightly after they install the electronic ignition. Warm it is idling around 1500, 1600. These pictures look like throttle cable to me but I don't see any adjustment screw on this. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Correct, if the throttle body is not closing, that is your problem and needs to be addressed, rebuilt or replaced. The idle adjustment will be the big screw in the picture and is an air bleed allowing are around the closed throttle plate, to control your base idle speed. Or look for and unmetered air bleed/leak ( vacuum leak)

If your idle speed has changed, it maybe the ignition timing base adjustment has advanced. The throttle blade adjustment did not change.

Ljet vac leaks result in a LOW idle. The inverse of Djet. When warmed up, try backing the air bleed screw out. This will, should drop the idle.

That would be the first thing I would verify. Make sure your timing was set correctly after the change.

I would then operate the throttle body manually with the cable disconnected. Check it see if it is closing all the way. If not, then your throttle body needs works. If so, then I would mess with idle adjustment. And of course if your throttle cable is too tight it can have an effect as well.

Thanks for the information, so what would be an ideal cold and warm idle speed ??

Yes the mechanic said he set the timing 5 or 8 degrees advanced, runs great. Is it normal to set timing advanced ???

can I suggest the following?
1. remove the throttle cable
2. if AAR (auxiliary air regulator) is working well, meaning at initial cold start, AAR is open and the engine should run more than 1,200 rpm and when it gets warm (AAR will closed) rpm should be around 700 and 900 rpm
If AAR is not working well, just make sure it is closed and only just play with the throttle to let the engine warm.
3. If engine is warm already, adjust the screw nut on the throttle body to get it around 800 rpm.

AAR at cold engine should be open to give some air (like a vacuum leak) and makes the rpm higher and when engine is getting warmer, AAR should be closing and air is decreasing while rpm goes down.

The idle adjustment is the screw directly under the cable end on your pic. Cable appears to have a small about of slack. Cable is adjusted by loosening the screw on the end of the cable, and sliding the cable the clamp.