I am in the process of refreshing the top end of the referenced engine and I am measuring the crankshaft end float with the flywheel on the engine (haven't removed it yet) using a dial gauge magnetically mounted to the flywheel and and resting against the crankcase. I zero the dial gauge and pry the flywheel outwards using two large screwdrivers 180 degrees apart from one another until resistance is felt and the reading on the dial gauge is stable. I am getting a consistent reading of 0.006 in., against a specification maximum of 0.0051 in. per Haynes manual. Do I need to add a shim, or is this close enough? I will be replacing the flywheel with a lightened one, but wanted to get this measurement prior to removing the flywheel that is on it. I will replace the rear main seal when I replace the flywheel, but the measurement I'm now getting shouldn't be affected by the new flywheel, or will it? Photos of the zero'd dial gauge and the extended end float reading dial gauge are below.

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Next question is about my oil pump. My engine gasket kit came with one paper gasket that appears to be for the oil pump outer cover. All the diagrams that I see for oil pump covers are not flat like mine, as pictured below.

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My oil pump also has a paper gasket that is identical to the one for the outer cover that goes between the oil pump housing and the crankcase, while the diagrams seem to show an o-ring being used to seal the oil pump housing. Below is a photo of the mating surface of my oil pump housing.

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The oil pump housing on my engine has no groove to accept an o-ring and used the paper gasket just like the one for the cover. Do I have a different oil pump on the engine? If so does anyone recognize it and can tell me about it.

Thanks!

Measure things up once you have the new flywheel...it may make up the difference. Regardless, at .001 out of spec, I'm sure you can bring it back in with a different mix of shims. Target is .003 - .005

When I replaced my flywheel, it was a bit thicker than the OEM one and i needed thinner shims to keep the end play in spec. The clutch replacement video in the link below shows the process.

Good luck!

You have a type 1 oil pump, looks to be cast iron which I've read is often made by Shadek. A type 1 pump would be a 26 mm or 30 mm I believe, where the type 4 pump is a 24 mm. The type 4 pump is aluminum and is one piece and doesn't use a cover so the kit just comes with the 1 paper gasket. The type 1 pump uses the same gasket 111 115 111 B between the body and the case, and another gasket between the cover and body 111 115 131 B

Thanks Guys.

Your oil pump studs are too short.

I only have them on loosely so they are not as short as they appear in the photos, but you still might be correct. Oil pump was secure and not leaking when I got the engine. Removed the oil pump so I could look at the cam gear to see what cam is inside.

You can look at the paper gasket template in my signature for what you need for type 1 pump.
And, as other noticed, studs are short. The studs need to protrude through the nuts.

Your shims are most likely worn and hopefully your rear bearing thrust is ok,best way is to remove the flywheel ,take out the RMS and remove the old shims,bolt back on and test total end float then deduct the best clearance according to spec.
Replacement flywheel will be same as standard spec...the one (AA Performance) I fitted gave the same end float as the stock one I removed.
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The pump you have is a Melling cast iron, not always the best choice as they can leak.

Is the capacity of the Melling pump greater than the stock Type IV pump? Is that probably why it was changed out by prior owner?

Sorry I don't remember,stock pump has small gears and I think the Melling is similar,go to the Samba.com and you will see plenty of info on these pumps.
Appears to be understood that the T4 has no need for big gear pumps.

I won't use the cast iron body melling pumps, i'd use a Schadek 26mm type one for the T1 flat gear cam. The 30mm Schadek is too big and requires a T1 pressure relief pump cover.

For end play I aim for .003 to .004, I measure with two shims, do the math and add the third shim. It must have 3 shims only, no more, no less. For measuring I use no Oring and an old 5-bolt washer, I add the RMS, Oring, new washer, etc once I have my end play set.
Be careful using screwdrivers, you can move the crank with them, but they should be out for the measurement. The screwdrivers can actually bend the flywheel enough to give you a false measurement.