Got some more pics from the green monster's underside today. It looks pretty good to me except that one corner.
the back end has been reconstructed.

Have any idea what it would cost to have this fixed by a pro.
how long would it be safe to drive like this? does it pose a serous threat?

does $2,000 seam like a fair price for this car?

1971 914-4: runs very well, Excellent acceleration and speed. 5
speed with Weber converted rebuilt engine, by last
owner, new ignition, brakes, heating system, rebuilt
brakes, body structurally sound, some rust, Fuchs
wheels, stainless steel heat exchangers, two new
tires. Floor pans and wheel well have been welded and
replaced. Rear frame has been reconstructed, steering
housing replaced, brakes rebuilt, rotors turned, fuel
lines, hoses and filters replaced. Brake, tag and
headlights fixed, speedo cable fixed, ignition
replaced, heavy-duty battery. Seats and dash are
worn.

some of you have seen the multi colored interior that I will either rip out or do a paint /dye job to

it is going to need window seals replaced and there is a small patch of rust under passengers side front window

is it worth the investment of fixing?should I drive it until it falls apart and put the engine in a new roller? Fix frame, body panel rust, paint drive for a bit and sell?

from the pics shown it doesn't look bad, the jack donut needs to be fixed, but not that bad otherwise... you really need to pop the rocker panels off and see the longs... that's the make-or-break thing...

if you can, give the "big-butt" test too... if 2, normal-plus sized people can sit in the car, with the doors open, the doors should close easily still... if they don't, RUN! they should also close smoothly after you get out...

yikes, man, i don't like the look of that jack point.

yea, the jack point is worrisome. since the rust is usually not that isolated...

a nother pic

seller says the doors line up perfectly and don't stick.
here is another under belly shot.

ok, I'm going to say, based on the photos of the longs(next to the rockerpanels in the pics above) pass on this one... you will need to do more welding/rust repair than you realize, I'm afraid...

granted that MAY only be surface rust, but, what I've learned is this... take the amount of rust you CAN see... and multiply by 10 and you are closer to how much you CAN't see... sorry. Just my .02

oh, definitely pass. that would be a parts-car in CA. you can do better, even in NY. (i think...)

It would appear that there is a bit of scattered surface rust under there. Is that any thing that really would need much attention weighing the options long-term and short-term ownership.

I also read a bit on here about carburetors being undesirable should I steer away from this car because of that or does it depend on the set up
This was rebuilt with a Weber kit installed I believe. I have plenty of old school mechanics around and would have it tuned up by a pro when needed.

oh, forget the carbs. that's the least of your worries. you've got some $erious rust repair to take care of first. that jack point looks $hitty (getting the hint?). if you do fix it, you'll have more $$ in it than you could get selling it, and if you don't fix it, people will not want to buy it from you anyway.

not worth it? bumber what would say the car is worth than? it does leek small droplets on seats in savior rain.

Thanks for your opions I'll let you know about my next find.

I just got a tip on an 83' 944 at a local dealership, also emailed a couple other guys selling their 914's here.

Why is the rear shock pin loose? I'd never take a picture with a fault like that.
No pictures of the 'hell-hole'?

What do you know of 944 timing belt issues?

it's a east coast car, so i believe it is worth it...if it runs well.

one more thing... look at the last group of pics, the one in the upper left corner, the one that shows the SSI H/Es... that trailing arm looks rusty too... again, we don't know HOW rusty, but it's rusty and that ain't gud anywhere...

QUOTE (davep @ Jul 5 2005, 08:59 AM)

What do you know of 944 timing belt issues?

I am familular with the 944 timing belt isue. If it goes so do your valves. $$$$$
What is it something like every 60,000 miles it needs changed? I have link some where for all that stuff.

I went to the dealer today. said he sold it already for $1,700 with a bad rear end. I never heard of rear end problems on 944's. He said it was drivable but kind of jolted when you let your foot of the clutch. Had his Mechanic looked at it who thought the rear end should be replaced.

any way the dealer says he can get any Porsche from the actions he goes to but I am a little leery of action cars.
No way to no what has been done or not done.

what the hell is a action car?

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 5 2005, 07:52 AM)

ok, I'm going to say, based on the photos of the longs(next to the rockerpanels in the pics above) pass on this one... you will need to do more welding/rust repair than you realize, I'm afraid... granted that MAY only be surface rust, but, what I've learned is this... take the amount of rust you CAN see... and multiply by 10 and you are closer to how much you CAN't see... sorry. Just my .02

OMG. run away from that car. I see no redeeming qualities. plus the front suspension pick up point has been repaired (poorly) and is already cracked again.
Even if it had a NEW motor and rebuilt trans it would not offset the amount of blood sweat and tears not to mention money to fix.
I'd pass.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Jul 6 2005, 12:08 PM)

what the hell is a action car?

my mistype "auction" car is what I ment

I should have some more pics soon of some othe cars I am looking at.
Thanks so much for saving me on this one.

got it nailed down to a couple car.
looking at a 1973 with a newer 1.7 porsche crate motor primed and parshly disasembaled (lights bumpers latches).
it drives, and has nice interor. formaly californa car garage kept till about a month ago. just needs paint new seals and reasemble as far as I know here is the engine copartment.

under tray

the car in the classifieds looks like an EXCELLENT start at a project at a decent price...

other car also has fairly nice intior and needs paint job as paint is scratched and rust bubles are apearing here is engine coparment. also needs new shifter adjustment screws but is driablable.

1.8 engine

do you have under-rocker pics of the second car? hard to really see how bad the hell hole is on it...

first car

still waiting on under side pics.
The rockers in and out were recently replced.

I am thinking the first car is going to be less work
provided there is't any hiden rust under that primer and the underside. I will be talking to the owner tonight to get more details.

here they are

this and the above are form the second car

another one

more

very difficult to tell rust conditions from these pics -- and a little difficult to read your posts because of your god-awful spelling ( )

BUT, this pic



reveals at least some missing engine tin on the #3 cyl (not good, that cyl runs hot anyway) and stripped heat exhangers (probably rust eaten, not a good omen). you're looking at some real, errrr, projects -- that's for sure!

fist car loking better... there's a lot of surface rust there... you'd basically need the dip that in metal ready!

and more

Floor has already gone on the second car.

last one of car # 2
sorry for the bad spelling and miss types.
I think the floor pans have been replaced

That last picture shows one mighty large patch on the driver's side floor pan. What does the inside look like?

QUOTE (davep @ Jul 5 2005, 08:59 AM)

Why is the rear shock pin loose? I'd never take a picture with a fault like that. No pictures of the 'hell-hole'? What do you know of 944 timing belt issues?

914's rust
944 BLOW UP!

Is there any sanity left in the world?!?!

I see a lot of rivoted/bolted on repair panels underneath. Walk away, he is even missing the cup washers for the trans mounts. How much else was done incorrectly? Walk away, quickly.

the 1.8 is missing a hose on one of the vac lines. The plastic white pipe.

I'd run, not walk away from that one. For $2000 you should be able to find a less damaged car, this one seems very damaged, youll need to spend maybe $1000-$3000 more to fix it right, if it needs paint add $2000-$3000 more, and now your into the car 2000+2000+2000= maybe $6000 for a car that is worth maybe $4000 (and thats only if it is fixed right, but even fixed "right" it still has lost value as it is not orignal.


You should be able to find a car needing only cosmetic things like paint and interior work for $2000-$3500.

Spend the money on a better car, it is cheaper in the long run, and you'll have something that is nicer


good luck in your search.

I talked to the owner of the first car last night ( white primed 1.7) and agreed to buy it provided the bottom isn't rusted out. From what he has told me I believe this is the gem I have been looking for.
little to no rust, several nice up grades good interior new motor installed about 5-10 years ago but never put back on the road. starts rights up and drives.

even if the floor was staring to go I think it would be worth the price. Owner will try to send me underside pics this weekend but I have pretty much committed to buying it. Hope to pick it up in a few weeks as I am leaving for vacation on Monday.

Thanks for all your help guys. I am sure I'll be back for help with tracking down window seals and reassembling the lights windshield wipers and bumpers.

excellent! good luck with it!

good deal!


btw,
the floor itself ISN't the part to worry about.. it's the longs and center tunnel... those are what keep the car right....

it looks like a great start to a project in the pics provided!

QUOTE (tat2dphreak @ Jul 8 2005, 07:04 AM)

good deal! btw, the floor itself ISN't the part to worry about.. it's the longs and center tunnel... those are what keep the car right.... it looks like a great start to a project in the pics provided!

floor ( bottom, frame, longs..) that is what I ment