I am more than a couple of years into my restoration of my ‘73 1.7 (now 2.0) but did not want to bore everyone with the same old stuff you have seen before. However, I am very thankful that many members here, take the time to post there work in detail. I have followed Brent’s (bbrock) post and have used many of his examples. In fact, I have adopted his idea of painting the trunks, cabin, underside first and now am doing the exterior panels. However, I do not have the cojones to paint mine myself.
I am getting close to having the car ready for paint. Once I finish this I will get the car back to a roller so I can flatbed to the paint shop. I want to use my old 4 lug Fuchs to sent to the paint shop and not my nice 5 lug Fuchs.
This is where I need advice, I sent my 4 lug hubs to PMB to be converted to 5 lug and also purchased the kit. Since I no longer have the 4 lug hubs, what would be the easiest way to accomplish this. I know Ivan purchase a pair of 4 lug hubs, just wanted to make sure I am not missing something easier.
Also, I want to know if I can install the stub axles without the axles just to get it to the paint shop. There will be no engine in the car.Click to view attachment
I want to use these wheels to take to the paint shopClick to view attachment

And not these
Click to view attachment

Cheers,
John

If you haven't installed your five lug setup yet, install the 4 lug with stubs and you'll be fine. use old bearings since you will ruin them when you pull off the hubs.
or you can find someone with an old set of trailing arms with hubs and stubs
or you can find/borrow some old five lug wheels. We use repos, spares and junk wheels for rollers and paint.

I agree....don't use those 4 lug Fuchs for paint. Sell them (they are worth good money) and buy some cheap wheels from a forum member.

Another option is put on the 5 lug conversion and use a cheap set of Boxster or 996 wheels for rolling around. There are plenty out there for much less than your 4 lug Fuchs will sell for. That will also give you the option of having cheap roller wheels if you need them again in the future.

Thank you, maybe some out there has some 4 lug hubs, and I’ll start looking for some cheap wheels. I have one steel wheel, so only need 3 more.

Cheers,
John

I guess I will continue the build postings here instead of many new threads. I have had a hard time finding this link because I have not posted anything here in a while. Any trick to this?

After being back from paint, it has been very rewarding to start putting it back together and seeing some light at the end of the tunnel.

I painted everything except the exterior, including raptor on the belly with single stage.

Click to view attachment
I completed all the body work and finished using 400 grit wet sanding.
Click to view attachment
Off to the paint shop
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
And after a few months, this is where I’m at with the car now
Click to view attachment

Very nice progress. Inspiration for the reset of us!

Looks amazing.

To locate your thread or comments you've made on others threads click on your member name. Then click on profile options on the right hand side of the screen. There you will have a choice of your post's or your topics.

Very nice to see it all coming together. You are going to have a great car and lots of fun driving it around.

Everything looks so nice at this stage. Assembly is a bit challenging but fun.

Thank you all for your comments.
I just received this engine yoke from the Samba. I was wondering if it will be obvious where to drill the holes when I get the engine mounted to the yoke and on the stand? Or shall I drill holes at 12,3,6, and 9 o’clock? Also not sure what the attached sleeve or bushing is for
Click to view attachment

Also would like to know if there is any advantage to the yoke positioned all the way in or out flush with the edge, or somewhere in between.Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I have upgraded from 1.7 to a 2.0 and it has already been rebuilt to stock but I wanted to get it on a stand to install all the tidbits. I plan on building a big 4 with the 1.7... unless a six comes along that I cannot live without.

Thanks for your replies,
John

Keep the yoke all the way in. I would drill holes every 90 degrees. The hole doesn’t have to be very big. It just needs a rod or bolt to keep it from turning while you work.

Will do , I held the yoke up to the case where it mounts, and there is not much meat on that case to hold the weight of the engine. I will proceed with caution.

John

I have the same yoke and that's what I did. Also when you decide to go to a 6 you can use the same one

Anyone know what the zip tied sleeve/ bushing is?

Click to view attachment

A spacer for a long case stud.

Zach

Thank you, I figured that’s probably what it was for, but it’s nice to confirm with the almighty forum.

Since the weather is fantastic here today, I am working on the dash. I have installed the padding but I’m not in love with this vinyl top piece, it has too much sheen to it. I noticed in Ian’s video, his had more of a matte finish, which is desirable for low reflectivity. Both from 914 Rubber, but mine may be older. I will find out before proceeding any further.

Taped off to avoid glue where I don’t need it.
Click to view attachment

Installed some reference points and only glued half at a time.
Click to view attachment

Went on well with no issues.
Click to view attachment

Tools of choice
Click to view attachment

I decided not to use this piece of vinyl due to the high sheen. 914 Rubber has agreed to exchange it for a different material. I will continue on with installing the new basket weave to the front of the dash.
Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Keep the updates coming please.

Continuing to work on the dash, I received the 2 way tape I needed to retape the radio and glove box plates. The first attempt to place the radio plate was not successful, it was off just a bit. You only get one shot at fitting these to the dash. For the longer plate, I had someone hold one end while I carefully placed the other. This worked out pretty well.
Today I set both the radio and glove box plates successfully

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

To line up the glove box plate, I illuminated the knob holes from below to make it easier.

Click to view attachment

Done with the basket weave, and now waiting for the new vinyl top piece to come in so I can finish the top and then install the new dash top.

Click to view attachment

After moving the dash wiring loom around I found this light socket had come off. I believe this is one of the lights for the vent control unit.
I’m not sure how to proceed with repairing this, it looks it was soldered.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

These are the rear license plate lights. As you can see, the light on the left is missing it’s ground prong, so I decided to fabricate one out of spring steel.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Nice work!

She is in! After shedding a few tears due to the scratched paint, I celebrated the small achievement of getting the air box in.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Scratched paint
Click to view attachment

And after receiving the defroster vent seals from 914 Rubber yesterday, I will proceed with installing the remaining vent system pieces.

Click to view attachment

Cheers

nice to see the rubber bands

Thanks to you and the great videos you take the time to make!
I have been referring to them frequently this week as I am finishing up my dash as well.

Cheers,
John

I was able to finish with all the ducting today.

Click to view attachment

I was able to get the dash top installed today. I’m pretty happy with the with the final results. I completely freshened up the dash including, basket weave on the front, padding and new vinyl on the top , and finally the dash top. All materials came from 914 Rubber.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

The ash trey cleaned up fairly well

Click to view attachment

I also started working on the wiper system, and while working with the column, noticed the shaft had a lot of play, and then I noticed the plastic sleeve had come apart. Shall I just purchase the sleeve or do the bearing as well?

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Progress is great, the workmanship looks top notch. It is gonna be stunning when your done, won't be long now!

Great work; love the attention to detail

If you have it apart, I would do the bearing. Might as well or knowing how things happen that will go out 6 months from now.

+1 did this on two cars now, well worth the cost if the column is out.

Thank you all for the kind words of encouragement. I would not have been able to get this far without all of you that have spent countless hours documenting your builds and projects.
I spend a lot of time going back and looking at other threads to learn the proper way to do things.

I will take your advice and change out the column bearing while it is apart. It appears there is a bearing at both ends, is there only one or two bearings?

Today I took apart the steering column

Click to view attachment

I have ordered both upper and lower bearings as they both seemed to be toast

Click to view attachment

The upper bearing came right out due to the plastic inner bushing falling apart.

Click to view attachment

I’m thinking this is the original upper bearing

Click to view attachment

This is the lower bearing

Click to view attachment

There is an inside circlip on the lower bearing so be careful if you use a punch to remove the bearing like I did from the top side.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

After a good cleaning, I’m waiting on parts for the reassembly.

Click to view attachment

John - You're doing a GREAT job on your car! I'm really enjoying the show as you get it all pulled together. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you Sir! I’m enjoying the process. And like so many others, enjoying your build, keep up the great work
Can’t wait to get a ride in that beast!

i had the same thing happen during reassembly, got a ding on my door and around the windshield while putting the trim on , i learned a few lessons about taping and paint protection, almost impossible to not get a scratch or bump at some point, its going to happen anyway right?

great job on that column ! i did the bearings a couple years ago too, they were both original and needed it badly!.
I cruise thru Jax and St. Augie once and a while and would love to stop by and take a look at your car if it works out. Might be going down to Daytona to see my daughter and son-in-law holloween weekend and go to daytona cars and coffee, so if your going to be around, let me know!
@Morph914

Yes, if you are in the area, I would be happy to meet a fellow teener and have you give me some advice on wheel fitment and such.
I’ll pm you my contact info.

Cheers,
John

I received my carmagic switch for the windshield washer pump today. Let’s see how this baby fits.

Click to view attachment

First order of business is to remove the old valve, enlarge the center hole with a 4 mm drill bit and install the new switch.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Like an idiot I forgot to take a picture of the drilled out hole, but you get the idea. Even though I was very careful when drilling, the hole ended up a bit off center so the switch would not fit until I wallowed out the holes a bit.

Click to view attachment

Here is where I could use some help, I have looked at the electrical schematic and not sure how to wire this. I really don’t want to add a relay if possible. Maybe someone who has done this conversion could chime in.

Thanks in advance,
John

i will be doing this soon as well and just got my switch, and this week i got the new turn signal switch and my NOS 911 pump from @914sixer thanks, and shout out to Mark for that. i will also need help with wiring that up.
Looks good, did you put the wheel etc all back together?

@Morph914 - are you running that switch straight to the pump or do you have the intermittent wipe relay? if it's straight to the pump, one of those wires from the carmagic switch goes to the + side of the pump, the other goes to a switched power source at the fuse box. then the - connection on the pump goes to a ground.

Not yet, I just received the lower column bearing, and should have the top bearing tomorrow. Always seem to be waiting on parts, so I have 3 or 4 different projects going on at the same time.

Thank you, i think I have the intermittent option, but I have never had the pleasure of driving this car. It was not running when I purchased it.
Isn’t the relay in the picture, part of the wiper intermittent system?

Click to view attachment

Yes that is the rely, my wipers went off everyonce in awhile then a put a new relay in and now that work like normal, a very easy fix

Finally received the upper bearing for the steering column. It was more difficult to get the bearing started on the shaft than I imagined, but once started, i was able to push it down into its seat with a fair amount of pressure with my fingers.

Click to view attachment

And then it was time to install the blinker/washer module into the column. I added a little protection to the new wires coming from the wiper washer switch going through the column.

Click to view attachment

All ready for the install.

Click to view attachment

I purchased this kit to clean and seal my gas tank. More pictures to come.

Click to view attachment

I am starting to work on the interior wiring and am not sure if this green and white wire goes to the heater lever or not. I accounted for all the other wires in the area that go to the 3gauge pod except a black and blue wire, but it has a small connector on it so I know it’s not for this lever. I did connect the green and white wire but when I tried to bolt the lever down it was too short. The wire loom is the only thing I did not remove from the car, so theoretically, everything should be in the same place. Hopefully someone can chime in on this.

Click to view attachment

Not sure if this is the way the wire is routed.

Click to view attachment

I don't think that is the proper routing for the wire. Check by the cross support for an opening.

Yes, I believe you are right, I should have had that wire exit the loom closer to the cross bar. After I cleaned the loom, I retapped this area and probably should have not taped over the green and white one.

I think I’ll undo some of the tape and reroute it through the side of the tunnel.

Click to view attachment


Thank you,
John

I discovered this today, after installing the dash and now connecting everything. I will now have to undo much of what I have been working on to fix this problem.

I am not sure which orientation is correct, I think the drivers side is the correct. Notice the side of the metal dash, the drivers side is on the outside and the passenger side is on the inside. I guess it could have been worse, I could have been completely done with the dash, steering wheel, etc.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment