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Bart.Car-Bone
Hi Guys,

Just recently received mine first Porsch and it is 914 haha. Bought it very very cheap as it cost 1,5k USD in overall, a bit by mistake as it was an auction and I did not thought it will go like that. Nevertheless I am up to restoring the car. I know its original paint is 64K and during the car life it was repainted. Hence the project name PORsche avoCADO

It was a barn find, and was a house for mice for long time so 1st was to clean as much as possible to reduce the smell. Now the interior is out I put the car on the jack stands to take the wheels of and put some newer tires that can be inflated. I know there is issue with hell hole. When car stands on tire the door gap is pretty uniform and roof goes easily. But when putting the car on jacks I noticed it flex mostly on the right side (saw by door gap change during lifting) well that happens when the longs are half invisible.

Already purchased the 914 Left Rocker Panel Kits (L&R) from restoration design and will look into more when the car be sand blasted.

My question is: were the Frame stiffener, left overlays longitudinal OEM mounted parts on the longitudinal or it is a part that we add just to make the car more stiffer (or add the stiffness to old chassis) ?

Here is photo folder: PORCADO Photos

911GT2
I think this thread will help you a lot!

But that's a lot of work mate! Hope you're not doing it on the street like these pics suggest.
Bart.Car-Bone
THX,

It is waiting for wheels and until we have free space in garage to put it on the lift and for the rotisserie. Until that it is outside but the weather is good for striping the car of the parts biggrin.gif
doug_b_928
QUOTE(Bart.Car-Bone @ Mar 18 2020, 03:59 AM) *


My question is: were the Frame stiffener, left overlays longitudinal OEM mounted parts on the longitudinal or it is a part that we add just to make the car more stiffer (or add the stiffness to old chassis) ?



Others more knowledgeable than me will chime in, and I could be wrong, but my understanding is that the overlays were not an OE item. I'm cutting my longs to weld in patches and then sleeving on the inside to get the strength back.
IronHillRestorations
The frame stiffeners do indeed overlay the outside of the longitudinals, but you have to remove the sills and the triangular brackets, as well as open up the seam on the rear jamb to get it in place.
Bart.Car-Bone
Well the car will be stripped and sand blasted and than all repairs will carry on hence I am thinking on overlays - if they are needed and how much they add besides extra $$
dr914@autoatlanta.com
I designed those as an overlay for cars so rusty that they were not worth spending hundreds of hours repairing. They can also be used to stiffen the car, but really not necessary if you repair the car properly, and I would not install them



QUOTE(Bart.Car-Bone @ Mar 18 2020, 01:59 AM) *

Hi Guys,

Just recently received mine first Porsch and it is 914 haha. Bought it very very cheap as it cost 1,5k USD in overall, a bit by mistake as it was an auction and I did not thought it will go like that. Nevertheless I am up to restoring the car. I know its original paint is 64K and during the car life it was repainted. Hence the project name PORsche avoCADO

It was a barn find, and was a house for mice for long time so 1st was to clean as much as possible to reduce the smell. Now the interior is out I put the car on the jack stands to take the wheels of and put some newer tires that can be inflated. I know there is issue with hell hole. When car stands on tire the door gap is pretty uniform and roof goes easily. But when putting the car on jacks I noticed it flex mostly on the right side (saw by door gap change during lifting) well that happens when the longs are half invisible.

Already purchased the 914 Left Rocker Panel Kits (L&R) from restoration design and will look into more when the car be sand blasted.

My question is: were the Frame stiffener, left overlays longitudinal OEM mounted parts on the longitudinal or it is a part that we add just to make the car more stiffer (or add the stiffness to old chassis) ?

Here is photo folder: PORCADO Photos

Cairo94507
Hi Bart - Good for you. I like your enthusiasm. Get that car pulled apart and then have it blasted inside and out. Off course please make sure to brace that tub adequately before you put it on the rotisserie.

It looks like you will be doing some extensive work to restore that tub so it will be solid. If you have not already, check out all of the build threads in this site. Lots of people have been down this road with their cars and come out the other end with solid cars they can enjoy driving. Cheers, Michael beerchug.gif
Bart.Car-Bone
@dr914 @autoatlanta.com Thank you for explanations

@Cairo94507 well I am doing that, checking, gaining knowledge. Although we do 911 restorations for clients, I will need to do all work probably by myself biggrin.gif as clients cars are more priority, but with some welding knowledge I already have should be fun project!

Overall idea is to make the car solid with some tweeks like GF hoods, 1,7 to 2,1 conversion and some nice interior rework wink.gif
914_7T3
@Bart.Car-Bone

I know a great vendor for custom interiors and repro decals! laugh.gif

welcome.png my friend!
Bart.Car-Bone
QUOTE(914_7T3 @ Mar 19 2020, 03:38 AM) *

@Bart.Car-Bone

I know a great vendor for custom interiors and repro decals! laugh.gif

welcome.png my friend!


Oh Cool! When I will be on that stage will ask for a name lol-2.gif
Maltese Falcon
Bart...dobry dzień !
welcome.png I've seen restorations start out with worse 914s, but you are going to throw some pieniądze at this one. You have come to the right place smile.gif
Bart.Car-Bone
A little progress... Almost ready to take engine out but,
This little mf is just stuck and the coupler near the firewall have stripped screw....
My idea is to take engine out with those connected and once is out will be easier to use vice etc. that is the reason I tool the ball joint out so I can push it more to the rear to get some better clearance in firewall.

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falcor75
If you drain the gearbox first you can unbolt the entire sideshift console from the gearbox (there are two 17? mm nuts inside the console) and then disconnect the rod at the firewall then you get that entire shift rod out of the way before you drop the engine and gearbox.

Greetings from Sweden smile.gif
Bart.Car-Bone
Ohh that is a good idea! will try it today biggrin.gif
Bart.Car-Bone
Engine is out, put I bend the shifter rod badly in this process, well Maybe someone will make it straight again.

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