Hey all,

In an attempt to get better cold weather starting, and better starting in general, I'm thinking about upgrading the starter to a higher speed/torque unit.

The starter I originally put in was a standard rebuilt unit and has been a slow cranker from day 1. Nothing wrong with it, but I'd like to upgrade. I remember reading about them, but cant seem to find the info now. It was 8 years ago, and as I was doing a complete rebuild, couldn't go top drawer for everything.

What are you guys using/recommending now?

Also, I know that the Dellorto/DRLA's dont have a traditional 'choke' but are there options being used? I dont drive the car in the snow, but would be great to drive on days when it is below freezing.

Here's my experience: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=335427

Been running that one for over a year with no issues. Really resolved that D-Jet hot start issue as well (not that it's an issue for you with Dellorto's).

Which of these is the better choice or folks have experience with? Or another? WAY too many options, though it looks like many of the offerings are INI.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/PELG...TBoCyNkQAvD_BwE

https://sierramadrecollection.com/Lightweig...-89-p19925.html

Auto Atlanta lists 3
http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-914-Hi-...arter-srch.html

https://www.amazon.com/STARTER-PORSCHE-1970...3/dp/B079VV97G9

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_128/P...he-Starters.htm

I got mine from Pelican 4 years ago with no problems to this day. Happy with the change! Paul

+ 1. Pelican.

Had a Tilton hi-torque unit for a number of years, but it was problematic when hot-starting, even with the Ford starter relay mod. Switched to a 911 starter last fall and although it's heavier, it has been trouble free. FWIW, I also put a push-button starter switch in the cig-lighter hole at the same time. The car starts more reliably now than when it was new.

Starting procedure with Dells on my car has been key "on," listen for fuel pump, ~5 pumps on throttle, then hit the starter. A couple of light blips, then hold at 2k RPM for a few seconds. After that it's good to go. Only cold weather problem was at high humidity at low temps (think winter in Seattle-Tacoma area). Experienced some carb/linkage icing if driving for an hour or so at relatively constant throttle. Thought about running a temporary heating hose from heater fan towards each carb, but got transferred to VA.

@Bulldog9

I have a 911 starter rebuilt by a local shop that does outstanding work. The 914 starters were .75hp and 911 are 1.25hp.
$150 shipped.
Bruce

I have a IMI Hi Torque starter Here
It has worked well on the PO's 2.3 T4 and my fresh 3.0 /6 engine.

Looking at the base it looks like a few of those links are actually for Hi Torque brand starters, the adapter base of the starter is patented.


EDIT, example, if you blow up the sierra madre pic you can see the patent number, the adjustable plate and the edge of the Hi Torque sticker.

Funny I was also stationed in the PNW at JBLM, now am back in VA (Puzzle Palace) Where are you located? Would love to do a group drive/meet this summer.

Thanks for the feedback. I ordered the IMI unit, will report on install.

I also decided to take the plunge and add the Tangerine Cooling system to the car. Will be pulling all the tins and factory fan/cooling system off and putting the Tangerine system and starter with new stainless pushrod tubes this summer with a few other things I've wanted to change.

The stock system works fine, but I've been impressed with the other Tangerine components I've used on my car (Headers/Muffler, cable throttle control, and AFG air filters, have driven the car 5 years on the current rebuild, and have wanted the cooling system for a while. It has some advantages over stock, some similarities to the Raby DTM with uniform air DOWN across each cyl uniformly while keeping stock cooler, and just looks fantastic if not unique. Chris developed and uses it on his racing 914's.

At my last valve adjustment, I noticed all the pushrod tubes were rusting despite prepping/painting with ceramic header paint and 'curing' in the oven. One or two have leaked a bit as well. Chris now offers SS pushrod tubes and viton bushings, should be good to go after that.

OK so with my bigger engine I am going to get one of these. But it looks like the battery lead hooks on to the side of the starter and the orientation of the starters seem to put that on the top side of the starter which would be facing the trunk bottom.

See below

Click to view attachment

I ordered one like that I am sending back because there is just no way to attached the battery cable from the top.


Even if it is rotated to the bottom it looks like with my headers it would be really close to the pipes.

Click to view attachment

With the exception of the the ones Mark Henry had the link to the Tilton, and the https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_128/P...he-Starters.htm ones this seems to be an issue. Am I missing something?

I had a high torque starter on my six for many years. IIRC, it came from Australia. worked fine. but when we rebuilt the engine last year we discovered that it wore the fly wheel badly and unevenly. switched back to a regular one. Might have been my bad installation but I thought it was worth mentioning.

That is a known issue for the early hi-torque starters sold about a decade and a half ago. They needed to be shimmed with washers to get the correct engagement on the flywheel teeth or you got wear on the flywheel.

Zach

Is this still an issue, or is there a vendor offering that avoids this issue?

Using stock starter with my six it cranks fast with AGM battery,have a 911 starter and that will stay as a spare,IMO starter condition and wiring are common issues, its a risk using these starters with a "6'' as some have found out,buggered if I want to replace my flywheel.