Hello,
I have a few questions that I need help on.
I bought my 6 back in August and it was running rough. I am now replacing the fuel lines with stainless steel and new rubber hoses. I will also be changing the plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor arm so everything is new.
The PO has also put a fuel regulator on which I am not sure if that should be there. Is seems a good idea so I plan on keeping it but adding a gauge to see the pressure. Is there a standard for fuel pressure gauges? Any recommendations.

I have not removed the fuel pump yet how do I identify it is correct, do the ones for carbs look the same as injection. I have been caught out by this before.

I have bought an ultrasonic cleaner for when I rebuild the carbs, does anyone know of any good sources / tutorials for this.

I am planning on getting Magnecor leads but the sales assistant asked me to check the coil lead length, the one in the car is 16.5" and the one in their catalogue lists it as 9.5”. as the one in the car looks longer than it should do, I believe the correct length should be 9.5”. Is this correct?

Spark plugs, what do people recommend, either sticking with the standard rating plug or selecting a colder rating, the car will only be used on the road.

When I took the fuel tank out and removed the fittings from the bottom there was not a gauze filter, should the be one on a 1970 car. What is the method of choice for cleaning the tank out, there is a bit of light rust inside.

Might need some more details, but a couple of easy things:

Fuel pressure regulators never hurt. Assuming the PO is using the correct one and you have (I think) around 4-6 psig, you're good.

3 or 6 pin CD box? Or aftermarket? Makes a diff on plugs and wires.

What engine are you running?

OK hopefully my answers are in the right order;
A fuel pressure regulator is needed with most pumps IMO ,without a gauge you have no way of knowing,I run just over 3 psi with Zeniths and I believe Webers are similar.
You need to find out what pump you have first,most common aftermarket is the CB Performance/Carter low pressure pump which is rated @ 3.5psi,I have this unit and found it delivered more but I had a holley regulator and adjusted it down as I had minor fuel overflow in the throats...problem solved.
Depends on what carbs you have,there is a UK site covering Zenith rebuild and plenty of other info on Webers (more common) on US sites.
Buy the Clewett Engineering lead set part # 9192-28,plug and play and very nicely made,can be purchased direct from Clewett or Pelican stock them,great product.
Plugs ? buy standard heat range Bosch or NGK ,some say the NGK are better ...don't know but have a set I might fit soon to see.
Best to run gauze strainer of the tank but if you can't get one straight off you will be ok with one inline hose filter till you buy the tank one,I think 914rubber sell a kit.
Good luck .

The long coil lead is because many 911 guys mount the coil beside the relay board standing upright on the body.
Many coils leak oil from vibration if you mount it on the fan stock location. Once the coil losses too much oil it dies.
I use MSD high vibration epoxy filled coil on my engine so I can run it in the stock location... actually 2 coils because I have twin plug.

Dobbsy - good questions, welcome to the fun of driving a -6!

Everything Porschetub said is very valid; he I are running very similar set ups. Get a fuel pressure gauge (got mine from Jegs I think) and with a 2.2l and Zeniths 3-4 PSI seems to be the sweet spot. You didn't mention your engine /carb setup, so these specs may vary - however a functioning fuel pressure reg after the pump is not a bad thing anyway. Post a picture of your fuel pump and the folks here can tell you what you have (if you're not sure).

RE: "there was not a gauze filter, should the be one on a 1970 car. What is the method of choice for cleaning the tank out, there is a bit of light rust inside."

couple of things here:

1) the gauze should be there, but the real need is to get an in-line filter before the fuel pump; and usual recommendation is another (or two) between the pressure reg and the carbs.

2) If the tank has sat for any length of time (months /years), I'd recommend pulling it and get it to a radiator shop to boil it out and clean it; then treat it internally with one of the various petrol resistant coatings. Here in the US there are places that do this for a reasonable cost, not sure about the UK options for this. Well worth it and eliminates that variable for any future rough running issues.

- Tony

Sorry for the missing detail, as far as I am aware there have not been any modifications to the engine so it should be a standard 2 litre on Webers carbs.

I will be able to get the pump and regulator at the weekend as the car is not at my house, currently I am self-isolating and working from home. I will also look at the CD box to see how many pins there are, is there a procedure to test the CD box other than run it on the car.

I see Clewett also sell Magnecor leads does anyone know if theirs are rebranded Magnecor leads.

The advice on the vibration of the coil is good and it also helps that MSD coil is cheaper than Bosch version.

I will contact a few local radiator specialists to see what they can do, presumably it would strip the paint off the outside as well. What is the correct RAL code for the black paint?

Vibration polishing also give goods results from what I have seen on Youtube but I cannot find a company locally.

If you can get VHT spray paint in the UK, they make a single stage semi flat black that works very well, easy to use, and durable. It may have a bit more gloss than the factory paint, but it's close. I use it on all the semi gloss surfaces

Thanks Perry, we can get VHT paint in the UK, I will get some and see how it looks.