I have a 1.7L 1971 which has been converted to a 2-barrel Weber and have never seen the wiring harness on the engine. From the attached drawing, I know that 1) goes to the relay board, 2) to the starter and 3) to the transmission (tach wires? is polarity important?). Where do the other connectors go?

the wires for the transmission are for the backup lights

plug 'em in, check the lights, if not one when they should be, reverse the pins

Haynes manual nearby??

this will help



14 pin
1 yellow, main trunk, starter wire from ignition switch
2 blue, main trunk, goes to G light on combo gauge
3 gray/brown, main trunk, switched +12, attached at brake switch
4 gray/brown, below engine harness, reversing lamp
5 green/red, main trunk, oil pressure light
6 green/black, main trunk, oil temp gauge (even if not fitted, may not be on '72 -)
7 black/purple, main trunk, tach signal wire
8 black, main trunk, switched +12 from fuse 8
9 green/white, main trunk, rear blower switch
10 brown, grounding point for main power relay
11 brown/white, main trunk, "optional for sportomatic"
12 red, battery + terminal, to main power relay
13 black/red, to fuel pump (+12, switched by FP relay)
14 red, from battery +, to 25A fuse on board, FP relay and others

12 pin
1 green/red, engine harness, oil pressure switch
2 gray/brown, below engine, reversing switch
3 green/black, below engine, oil temp sender (might only be on '70-'71)
4 gray/brown, below engine, reversing switch
5 black/purple, engine harness, coil - (tach signal)
6 yellow, starter solenoid
7 black/red, coil +, ignition power
8 N/C
9 N/C
10 N/C
11 green, blower motor
12 white, Aux Air Regulator (AAR)

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 6 2005, 06:09 PM)

the wires for the transmission are for the backup lights plug 'em in, check the lights, if not one when they should be, reverse the pins Haynes manual nearby??

Reverse the pins? Wanna gimme an essay, 250 words, on why? LOL. Don't make no nevermind, they'll work any way you put 'em. The Cap'n

QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Jul 6 2005, 07:12 PM)

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 6 2005, 06:09 PM) the wires for the transmission are for the backup lights plug 'em in, check the lights, if not one when they should be, reverse the pins Haynes manual nearby?? Reverse the pins? Wanna gimme an essay, 250 words, on why? LOL. Don't make no nevermind, they'll work any way you put 'em. The Cap'n

really???

they will work either way "correctly"?????

I guess it makes sense if it's just a plate inside making the circuit complete.....my bad

Mikes list is helpful but keep in mind those are the pin numbers off the main connector.

Your numbers correspond to:

1- 12 pin relay board
2- Its yellow not brown...starter solenoid
3- Grey/brown stripe - back-up light switch...not tach
4- Coil
5- Coil
6- Aux air reg (no need for it on a carbed car but its full time +12V)
7- Green/red stripe - Oil Press sender
8- Heater blower ground
9- Heater blower motor

I find it very amusing that just days after I post details on the relay board wiring that several relay board wiring questions suddenly pop up, and Mueller quotes my post in each one.

on 4 and 5, btw, the black or black/red wire goes to coil +, the black/purple wire goes to coil -.

In the VW/Porsche world, brown is always a ground, and red is always unswitched +12. Black is switched +12.

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Jul 6 2005, 07:41 PM)

I find it very amusing that just days after I post details on the relay board wiring that several relay board wiring questions suddenly pop up, and Mueller quotes my post in each one. on 4 and 5, btw, the black or black/red wire goes to coil +, the black/purple wire goes to coil -. In the VW/Porsche world, brown is always a ground, and red is always unswitched +12. Black is switched +12.

I gave you credit on one of the posts

I have a color hardcopy print of the relay board which is even better than the one on Pelican, I'll have to find it and scan it..........

Not a credit thing, or a complaint. I just don't remember that many relay board questions in the past year or so, and suddenly there are several, just after I put that in my blog.

On the coil connections, the purple and the red can both fade. They start to look like each other, or like all-black, or black with a brown stripe, or....

You can tell them apart in two different ways: First, the tach signal wire will be thinner than the coil power wire. Second, the coil power wire will get +12V when the ignition is on.

BTW, throw that single-carb setup as far away from your car as you can. Either get fuel injection for it, or get dual carbs. The single-carb setup SUCKS.

--DD

THanks guys for the wiring help. Ignition seems to be working fine now (after I remembered to turn the key to "ignition"!)

As for my SINGLE carburetor... would dual Weber 36/32s (add another of what I already have) work or would I need two new carbs?

box up the single carb and send it to me

So, why should I send you the carburetor... to put me out of my misery???

i don't get it.

don't throw it away, send it to me. it's really simple.

Britt wants to make his car run worse, that's all. He wants to do it for free, so he wants you to send him the single carb free of charge.

It may be a chore to find manifolds that will fit dual progressives on 914 cylinder heads. It might make more sense to score a set of dual Dells or Webers or Solexes (even a pair of single-throats) if you want to stay carbureted. Just be forewarned that most of the carbs are getting hard to find...

--DD

i have several uncles that work at Holley in bowling Green......

I have had NADA problems with my carb. i'm sold.