Will it jump up from hitting the throttle? Or will it be OK?

she will flop over on her side like a pissed off salmon at teh slightest blip of the throttle. you should be OK if it is firmly attached to a 914 engine bar. the real question is...how big are Your balls son?

will that single plane intake fit under teh engine lid?

Son???? =-) LOL

I have no idea if that intake will be a problem or not... Gunna' find out real soon.

i wouldnt want to try it. we have built engine stands to do first start cam break in and such. we used stock type rubber engine mounts because of the vibration of a running v8 is substantial.

i would advise against starting your engine as in your picture.

Roger,

Just install it in the car, it's good to at least do a "dry fit". It will be secure and you can "rig up" the wiring or gas if need be. What are you trying to find out by firing it up outside the car?

I hope to find out leaks, moans, groans, and whatever else that is easier to fix standing in front of me instead of crawling under the car.
Ya' know?
Plus gas fires are easier to put out while not in the car..... =-)

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 6 2005, 10:55 PM)

I hope to find out leaks, moans, groans, and whatever else that is easier to fix standing in front of me instead of crawling under the car. Ya' know? Plus gas fires are easier to put out while not in the car.....   =-)

That's unavoidable.

Chris Julian is the ONLY one I know who designed a cradle for his engine to run outside his car. Maybe he will loan it to you but it is set up for a ZF tranny and a custom engine cross bar.

need this too...

I have to agree with Sean, that manifold is way too tall and will stick up above the decklid. Mine barely clears and it is not as tall as yours. Good luck with it. Just install it up in there and get it all hooked up and fire it up. That is what I did on mine. It's gauranteed to give you wood when it does.

I have a cradle for mine. No good photo's. I'd install casters on your engine mount bar and fire that bad boy up! It won't flip over!

sgdt

you should be fine, just make sure the engine mount bar is firmly on the ground or supported.....make sure the transmission is in neutral (so your jeans don't get caught on the output shafts)

yes, the motor will create some rotational torque, but it's nothing compared to if the drivetrain was connected to the wheels for resistance.

Here is a cradle that came with a V8 that I purchased. It has since traveled south.
CCLINSTARTUP

Motor and trans bolted down.
CCLINSTARTUP2

I'll bet most of those cradles are for moving the drivetrain around. To really find out if it leaks, you'd need t run it for a period of time. Unless you've rigged up cooling, you're limited on time maybe 5 minutes. How are you going to feed it gas? Maybe you can take it to an engine dyno and get performance data while you're at it...

My machine shop told me that under "NO" circumstances should I fire the motor without coolant, no matter how short a time. He has been doing SBC's for 35 years and said it is not good!

Dumb question: can't you just hook the water pump inlet to a garden hose spigot and dump the outlet to a drain? I think marine engines work this way.

I thought about doing the same thing to mine just to make sure everything was right but with all the extra long connections needed to get everything plumbed/wired, it was just as easy to install in chassis. In fact, you'll gain experience the more you install/remove drivetrain. You should have install or removal down to about 30 minutes by yourself after a few sessions.

That first start is critical for proper cam break in and as already mentioned, I would not run at all or at most, for just a few seconds without water.

Expect your engine to get really hot while running at 2000 or so rpm for 30 minutes. You'll need to understand the burping procedure before starting engine, ie air removal.

A couple of other things to consider:

-have a friend to watch gages, hold throttle, fire extinguisher, flashlight etc.

-bypass fans to be "on" during break in and not wait for thermo switch to activate.

-make sure you have a thermostat installed

-inspect fuel system for leaks when engergized BUT prior to firing engine

-have jug of spare coolant to add to system shortly after system fires and cap ready to install. Don't turn engine off or reduce rpm prior to installing radiator cap or you'll have a real mess on your hands.

other: top of distributor is about max. height of air filter and still be able to close lid. Looks like your at least 2" too tall just to top of carb.

Good luck and be careful,

John

Roger,

It's been a while and I was off a bit on the dist. to carb height reference. This pic might give you a better idea.

John

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Jul 7 2005, 09:12 AM)

Dumb question: can't you just hook the water pump inlet to a garden hose spigot and dump the outlet to a drain?  I think marine engines work this way.

good question and just found out today that MikeP ran his motor with a garden hose running in and draining out. Gravity fed the gas. Go for it...

Stay away from the carb as flame can shoot out!

QUOTE (rogergrubb @ Jul 7 2005, 02:02 AM)

Will it jump up from hitting the throttle? Or will it be OK?

You guys are way to uncruel..

It's fine man.


M