I looking for fuel tank carbon canister that would be easy to hide.. Any thoughts or suggestions?

I have mine mounted in front of the battery where the CD box normally mounts. This way you only have to run one hose to the engine compartment. I am using one of the later plastic ones that is easy to refill.

Any pictures of your install @steve ?

I can take some pictures later today. I ran the single hose down the passenger side rocker panel. Works great, no more gas fumes. 75/76 914’s had the canister in the engine compartment. They ran a really small hose down the tunnel with the fuel lines. The canister either mounted next to the battery or in front of the trunk.

Hard to see, but the late model plastic charcoal canister, fits perfectly between the battery and the firewall. I attached the bracket where the 914-6 CD mounts to, which is not needed with a 3.2
Click to view attachment

With the canister in the engine compartment, you only need one hose to the expansion chamber on the gas tank.
Click to view attachment

In the originality forum, you can see the stock locations in the engine compartment.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...amp;hl=canister

Thanks.. I have some thinking to do on this

Not to Hi jack.... but while on the topic.

If running a carb setup is there a proper way route the charcoal/PCV set up. Had a tough time searching for this topic.

Most carb air cleaners have a fitting for the canister. If they don’t make one.

To be clear I have Carbs with a GT filler neck. Just trying to make the garage not smell like gas.. Thats my goal anyway..

I have a 911 engine with carbs. The filter return line is connected to the air cleaner - per the diagram Steve added above. No gas smell in the garage.

Sounds like you might need an external expansion chamber. 911’s used an external expansion chamber, but they are kind of bulky.

You have to have an expansion chamber and a charcoal canister.



Weber rain hats you'll have to drill a hole on the top, add a grommet and a 90 degree fitting.

Ben I don't really think you can remove the engine bay smell due to the nature off carbs I noticed more smell when I used the twin K&N setup ,I'am now back to using the stock air cleaner and it seems less.
Any system will only be effective when you have suction and pressure when the engine is running ,perhaps I'am wrong but that's my take on it.

You are correct, but there are also gas fumes that come from the gas tank vent. If this breather/vent is not connected to an evaporative system, you will also get gas fumes in the cabin and the garage. Even driving my car to the store, if the windows were rolled up, I still had gas fumes in the car. I have heard of people taking the tank breather and running it through a fuel filter and then out the bottom of the car. I tried all the tricks and my cabin still smelt like gas as well as the inside of the garage. After installing the expansion chamber and charcoal canister the fumes in the cabin and in the garage went away..

It's funny I've been too lazy to finish mounting my charcoal canister.
All I have is the expansion tank and the small plastic hose, plugged (IIRC) and I never smell gas.

I bought a plastic charcoal canister that I can replenish to replace my 73 metal canister and I have a couple of questions:
1. What is the direction of flow on the plastic canister? Flow from the fan to the air cleaner towards the plastic removable cap?
2. How do you know if the charcoal pellets need to be replenished? I opened it up and the it was full of pellets that look normal.

Thanks-Rick

Click to view attachment

This is the plastic canister I bought and hopefully I can use the existing mounting bracket on my 73.
-Rick

I doubt it... I thought the 73 had a metal container which is more flatter.
This plastic one is the one I have mounted between the battery and the firewall.

Jeff, Thanks for the diagram. I questioned the direction of flow through this plastic canister because it has the large nipples on each end and small nipples (fuel tank expansion chamber) on each end unlike the metal canister.
Also, how do you know when the charcoal pellets need to be replaced? Do they change color or smell?
Thanks-Rick Click to view attachment

If your canister has 2 small ports, check them carefully. Seems to me I have seen them like that but one is not a port its solid.

Function of the canister relies on intake airflow from the engine fan through the filter media, to the exit port back to the intake. Fuel vapors are just along fro the ride.

Factory says replace the charcoal every 50K miles.

Betty's car is about 350,000 miles overdue....

Where can the charcoal be purchased?

I've also read that just not using the car for awhile will allow the charcoal to evaporate the fumes and be almost as good as new.

Betty "not using her car"? Like that is EVER going to happen. The only time I can get her to not drive it is if it is broken or she is too sick to drive.

Thought I read people were using fish aquarium charcoal and getting it through Amazon. I’m sure I read it here...

Wait. I thought you got the fish to eat the charcoal. Or was it mayonnaise? Maybe I saw that one in a movie...


Yes, I believe Mark did a writeup of that here (aquarium charcoal not mayonnaise).

I bought my charcoal from Petsmart in the Aquarium section. Very easy to pop off the plastic cap and replace the charcoal.
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-p...OxoCM8IQAvD_BwE

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...amp;hl=charcoal

Thanks for the source for new charcoal. Hopefully the replenished plastic canister will reduce or eliminate the smells I get from the older metal canister.

-Rick

There is a nice video from Ian
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6C06XJgLhIc

I keep thinking I'll get time to post this as its own thread, but last week I posted the process I used to replenish the charcoal in the early style metal canister. Not as easy as the plastic late style, but an option for those of us afflicted with CW Syndrome.http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2807286

Also on charcoal. There are pellets made specially for cleaning gas vapors but I could only find it for sale in bulk (~$150 for minimum quantity). It was 4mm pellets that match what is originally in the canisters (the aquarium stuff is larger pellets so less contact area). It wasn't worth buying a hundred canisters so I went with the aquarium charcoal. I mention it because I think a kit with the right charcoal, a pre-formed sealing band like show in my thread, and some sealant would make refurbishing the early style canisters a pretty easy 30 minute project (hint, hint @Mikey914 ). Oh, and 3 lbs. of the Accurel aquarium charcoal was not quite enough to fill the early canister. I had to top it off with about 3/4" of the old charcoal to fill it so it packed properly.

Could the larger, aquarium pellets be broken into smaller pieces to more closely match the original size?

I’d think just the replenishment would make the biggest difference. If the 4mm pellets lasted 50,000 miles maybe just reduce the mileage before changing them out with the larger pellets.

The CW slope is definitely slippery. I can’t imagine a judge opening a plastic charcoal container to check/measure the size of the pellets.

Maybe a chemist can chime in on this but someone on another forum said something about both size and iodine content made a difference whether the charcoal is optimized to filter liquid or gas. I don't know how much is true. I can see where the larger pellets would allow a higher percentage of the gas vapor to travel through the canister with less time in contact with the charcoal, but if everything is hooked up right, anything not adsorbed to the charcoal would wind up in the fuel intake and be burned in the engine.

I agree with you. There might be a bit of a difference but is it worth getting our unders in a twist over? However, if a vendor could buy the "good stuff" in bulk and retail it competitively with aquarium charcoal, then why not get the good stuff? AFAIC, I'm set for quite a few miles unless I start smelling gas.



I like to see that! They might, of course, notice the difference between an early metal canister and late plastic one though. I wanted to stick with original in mine. Plus, I'm a CSOB who didn't want to spend money on another canister.

Granulated carbon is used in the gold mining industry as a collecting agent. It is re-used
several times before it is removed from the gold recovery process, and is "re-activated", meaning recovers it's adsorption property, by heating it in an oven.
Perhaps one can empty the charcoal granules from the container, oven heat them, and return them to your carbon filter.

Already have these just need to list. They are messy. But will pack up in 3lb bags

The problem with "cleaning them" is you will be off gassing what?

Like @Steve says..Ian has it all answered here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6C06XJgLhIc&t=70s