Has anyone come across the seat belt bolt in the Long being rusted in and if so how did you remove it.have so far tried socket on long wrench no good torn the angles off the head, air gun and now ground it off its still there and annoying?!

I've tried using the bolt extractors and have broken them every time. Maybe get a reverse drill bit (they spin the opposite direction of a "normal" one) and use that? You will drill out the bolt material but the unscrewing action of the drill bit might break loose the bolt.

I'm assuming you sprayed some sort of PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench in there as well.

I've usually ended up drilling out the bolt to just smaller than the diameter, then chipping out the remaining metal. I then run a tap in the hole to clean it up.

Throw the bolt extractors away. In the end they only cause more problems by breaking off and then leaving you with a hardened piece of tool steel in your way. The only practical way to get a broken tap or bolt extractor out is via EDM machining and that is not cheap.

1) PB blaster - days in advance

2) Heat is your friend. MAPP Gas is the cheap solution. OxyAcetylene is better. Try heating and turning it out with vice grips.

3) If #1 and #2 fail, Locate center of bolt head. Use center puch to mark it.

4) Drill out the core of the bolt with Left hand drill bits. With any luck it might loosen during drilling but probably won't.

5) When you have about 3/16" core out of the bolt. Try heat and vice grips again. Removing the core allow some stress to come of the threads.

6) Be aware the anchor is only spot welded to the long. If that breaks free - you're absolutely screwed so don't use a break bar or excessive force!

7) If all this has failed then keep drilling outward as RZ-1 suggets until you get to the root diameter of the fastener. At that point pick out the threads and/or try to retap on-size.

8) If you've still failed, you probably will have to drill the bobbin oversize and then helicoil it.

excellent answers as usual,those extractors are rubbish and only have limited uses,hell even the big ones snap .
Drilling out the bolt is the best solution in this case after it has been heated and chilled several times.

Thanks guys tbh I going for the drill option as haven’t got oxy and will nail for sure, probably be safer and mor satisfied result. The main reason for reluctance to attack it big is there was a brown wire attached to it any ideas?

E-brake wire?

Ok so your saying the E brake is grounded to this bolt, and that’s not a criticism btw I’m just not used to this setup and getting used to the 914 and how it’s put together, rather how it wants to stay together bolts especially!,

He's just saying that's the most likely wire near a seat belt bolt. No wire should be attached to the bolt but it could be a PO hack to fix some grounding issue.

Thanks chaps much appreciate all the help.btw what is the general consensus on FI over twin Weber’s?

We've used a very small tip on an oxy torch to heat the center of the bolt head to light red, then allow to cool and repeat several times with penetrating oil applied between each heat cycle. Care must be taken with the heat, or the paper heater tube could be burned if the nearby metal gets too hot.

After the heating/cooling, try an air chisel angled to the left on the bolt head to fracture the corrosion and get the bolt moving.

If you dont have Oxy, you probably dont have this. I have had good luck with this. The heat is a bit more contained, less likely to cook items near by.

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Ductor-Venom-MD...7/dp/B01N0LR0M0