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Full Version: Washer pipes - matter which one goes on which?
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gturner008
I've just done the steering column bush - with a great result. I put everything back together.

I didn't record which washer fluid pipe went on which steering column tube. There are two. Top and bottom.

I guessed which one went where. Now the washer doesn't work. Trouble is, as I only just bought the car, I don't know if it worked before.

I've connected the spare wheel to the washer - and I know I have compressed air in the washer tank. But when I go to operate the washer on the stalk - no water.

Any suggestions? Do I need to completely dismantle the steering wheel job again? Hope not....
FlacaProductions
I'm wondering if you've lost the little plunger that goes in there - circled. If that's not there, it wouldn't activate the valve...

Click to view attachment
gturner008
The plunger is there.
davep
It is quite possible that the line is pinched or twisted closed, or that there is an obstruction in the line, valve, the one-way valves of the nozzles. The only thing I can suggest is to pull the valve out again, and test the line to the valve, and then through the valve. Each component in the system will need to be tested. In fact, make sure you can get water out of the tank first.
I hated the valve, so made a mount for a switch so that I could use a pump.
Rob-O
I think before I pulled all the stuff in the steering column I’d check the check valves in the front compartment. If the system has been inoperative for awhile the washer fluid dries and crystallizes the check valves shut. Personally I’d pull all the tubing and put all new tubing in. If the tubing in there is old (or even original!!!) you’re just going to end up with a lap full of washer fluid. The check valves can usually be soaked in hot water and freed up by blowing through them. Or you can replace them, they’re really cheap and lots of the typical suppliers carry them.

If you do replace the line, make sure you get the right size. The lines are metric. I believe you can get non metric to work in some areas but it’s difficult or impossible to get the non-metric lines to fit over the tubes on the washer stalk.
gturner008
Many thanks for the advice. The system is the original - although I did find a receipt for the tube replacement some time ago.

I’ll check each part of the system as you say. Not sure where I’ll find the valves up front. Guess I’ll have to track and trace the lines.

Thanks again.
porschetub
QUOTE(gturner008 @ Apr 29 2020, 04:41 PM) *

Many thanks for the advice. The system is the original - although I did find a receipt for the tube replacement some time ago.

I’ll check each part of the system as you say. Not sure where I’ll find the valves up front. Guess I’ll have to track and trace the lines.

Thanks again.


Are the spray noozles clear ? they do block up,I clean and adjust mine with a dress-making pin.
My hose was rubbish and split when I removed some of it to install my pump,for want of a better solution I used small black reticulation tube,all that was @ hand and did the job.
I think there is a check valve before the noozles ? if so make sure its round the right way.
Also make sure your tank is holding air it could be leaking @ the fill cap or air valve.
Good luck.
gturner008
Many thanks everyone.

I fixed it. After checking all valves and tubing, I noticed the tank said 42psi. Only only put in 26 psi!

After pumping up the spare to 42psi - bingo!

Tank pressurized and now work perfectly.

I’m chuffed. And annoyed at myself for not following German instructions...
davep
Yes, the air valve at the tank does not let the air pressure in the tire to fall below running pressure. Hard to say after all this time what pressure it shuts off at.
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