I need to know what the correct timing for a 2.0L (built to 2056) with and electronic ignition, no vacuum advance running dual carbs.

I set the timing to 27 degrees BTDC per the manual but it doesn't run right, it seems much happier with some timing taken out. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Assuming you have the correct marks, this may help:



Pulley is on FRONT side of impeller.......

GN

While 27 deg. BTDC is correct, many suggest running at 30 to 32 deg. advance. I'm running 32 deg. with dual IDF-44's on a stock 2.0, and it loves that setting.......

What distributor are you running?

What is your advance at idle?

GN

28 degrees for carbs, you have something else going on. Assuming the engine is in good shape, you have spark and the valves adjusted, often it's carb/sync issues.

I'm running dual Dellorto-40s with Pertronix. Many times I have attempted to set my timing to the "normal" 27 or 28 degrees suggestion, but I always have to reset advance to about 30 degrees for proper running.

Ansbacher

I find +/- 2 degrees from the 28 rule is acceptable, but retard it gets doggy midrange and 30 is the max or you start to get too lean at load.
If the OP's engine was working fine at 27 before the pertonix install it should also work fine at 27 with the pertronix.

The engine was completely rebuilt by McMark last year so it's good. I had the carbs rebuilt by JayCee enterprises last year as well.

At what RPM should the timing be set at? Per the manual, it's 3500 but when I try that the motor will barely run at all, it's popping all over the place. If I set it at 1500 RPM it likes it a lot better! Do I have another issue going on?

I have no idea what distributor is in it, it was in it when I got it.

Are you sure you’re fan marks match the ones in the photo? I got my car after the PO rebuilt the engine and my fan markings did not match what most people’s fans seem to have. I had to add my own timing marks.
Pelican has a template you can cut out and use to verify yours if need be.

I'm inclined to agree with Mark Henry - something else going on.

Timing should be set at 3000 rpm minimum, 3500 with some distributors.

Having personally had problems with 009 dizzy's, I'm suspect of your distributor...but then, I'm biased.......

What is your timing at at idle? Should be 0 deg. minimum, 7 1/2 deg. max., and steady.

Starting at idle, watch your timing light - as you up your RPM to 3,000, does the timing advance steadily? or does it jump?

GN

I'll ask my dad what the timing is set at idle as he was watching the timing light as I was bringing the car up in RPM. He did say the timing advances steadily, not jumping. Just that it doesn't like 27 degrees at 3500 but likes it a lot at 1000-1500 RPM

huh it shouldn't reach full advance till about 3000 RPM, that's why you set the timing at 3000-3500 rpm. I have had a dizzy so corroded/dirty the advance weight mechanism was seized.

I know you said the carbs were rebuilt. But have you balanced them on the engine to make sure they are drawing the same? You can do it by ear, but using a snail gauge makes it a lot easier. Tuning carbs by ear is an art. The popping you are reporting makes me think the carbs need work.

Is the car fully warmed up when you are checking timing? Cold carbs draw very differently then fully warm ones, and if you tune the car for a cold engine its going to misbehave badly when the engine is warm. Tuning for a warm engine can mean you need to play with the throttle when the engine is cold and give it a moment to warm up before it runs well and you are off and driving.

At 1500 RPM the car is only barely into its advance curve, unless the curve in the dizzy is really wrong (like a generator curve or something like that.)

Zach

The timing does advance with RPM. So the fan does not have a 30-32 timing mark on it. The timing is set to 27 degrees at 2800 RPM so assuming 30-32 at 3000 RPM but honestly it is running great at this so I am going to leave it there.