Th other issue with my '7 2.0 is the brakes. Very mushy and almost goes to the floor. The red light in the dash stays on all the time as well. Checked master cylinder reservoir in front trunk...full. Any ideas??

Thanks guys. I just want to get this little car road worth during great weather.

I need a little more info, did your concern just start recently? Did you just buy the car? did you just replace brake pads? Did you try bleeding the brakes? does it have late calipers with 2 bleeders on each caliper. Any recent work done to the brakes?

I just bought the car so new to me. There was a bunch of brake work done by a shop. I know nothing about the pads. Only had the car 1 day so havent had a chance to bleed brakes. it's a '73 and I don't what type of calipers it has.
Help!!!

I recommend you do a visual inspection first. you want to look for and brake fluid leak at and of the brake lines. check for swollen rubber brake lines that lead to each brake caliper. check the master cylinder, your looking for seepage and paint around master to be peeling from brake fluid leakage. visual on all calipers check for seepage around caliper pistons. If all looks good you'll want to bleed the brakes and see if you have pressure. If you have slight pressure and it drops while holding the brake pedal down and all your visuals look good the I would suspect the master. after all who knows if the master is 50 years old for that matter any rubber that old would expand to cause a spongy feel. always start with the obvious and the then the least expensive procedure then go from there.

There are two switches connected to the braking system which cause the large red light to come on. First is the parking brake switch, mounted in the crossbar next to the drivers seat, just below the parking brake lever. The other switch is on the master cylinder and is there to indicate brake failure. It sometimes needs to be reset after brake bleeding.
A mushy pedal may be attributed to air in the brake lines/calipers. It may also be the result of incorrect rear brake venting clearance adjustment or a flexing/cracked floor where the master cylinder is mounted. Other possible causes of the pedal moving close to the floor include improper adjustment of the actuating pushrod attached to the brake pedal or a weak rear brake regulator, which is in the engine compartment mounted on the firewall.

I'm going to echo what others here have said:
Do the inspection.

Bleed the brakes and pay attention to the state of the brake lines. Feel the entire length of the rubber line. If they are mushy anywhere or bulged then replace them with new rubber lines. Start with this and if that does not fix it, start looking into the the other stuff Chris mentioned.

Your brake pedal should be very firm when the brakes are properly functional.

Many times soft lines swell inside, making the id smaller but look normal from the outside. If you don’t know or can’t remember when they were last replaced, it’s time to replace.

^^^^^^
Good advice