I have an awesome 2.0 S spec engine in my original 914 six. Had it rebuilt a couple years ago and it's a joy to drive. But it's leaking oil and I'm going to have to rename it the SS Valdez. I have COVID-19 psychosis and I've been cleaning the underside of my car with a toothbrush. I'm looking for some new valve covers so it won't leak.
Thanks
Dave
Full Version: WTB/914-6 aluminum valve covers.
There are two fixes with your originals - mill them flat using a sheet of 120 sand paper taped down to a flat surface (granite counter top) and install them with squishy silicone gaskets
No leaky
No leaky
The silicone gaskets take very little pressure. People usually overtighten.
Are the existing valve covers milled to enable valve adjustment without lifting engine? If not have machine shop straighten
QUOTE(two914-6s @ May 14 2020, 05:36 AM) 
I have COVID-19 psychosis and I've been cleaning the underside of my car with a toothbrush.
It's cool Dave, lots of us have been there at some point, you're not alone 
6 bolt lowers always leak. Mill them or do the flat sandpaper thing, which worked for mine.
Comment assumed a real 2.0 S engine. Regardless, use sandpaper.
Comment assumed a real 2.0 S engine. Regardless, use sandpaper.
Also responded to the OP post on FB, but to add in a few comments here:
- flatness is key; either turbo or original magnesium. Plate glass / sandpaper / grinding paste - whatever it takes. I was lucky enough to be able to pick from a selection of lower covers (the worst culprit for leaks) and select two that were almost perfect to begin with; which meant the minimum of material removed to get the sealing surface flat
- turbo lowers will need to have some fins machined down for suspension clearance; maybe a bit more if you want check valve clearances with the engine in the car
- the orange silicone gaskets were the last element of getting my covers leak free. Read the instructions that come with on torque settings, as if you get too aggressive they squish out and don't seal well
also - nice car!!
- Tony
- flatness is key; either turbo or original magnesium. Plate glass / sandpaper / grinding paste - whatever it takes. I was lucky enough to be able to pick from a selection of lower covers (the worst culprit for leaks) and select two that were almost perfect to begin with; which meant the minimum of material removed to get the sealing surface flat
- turbo lowers will need to have some fins machined down for suspension clearance; maybe a bit more if you want check valve clearances with the engine in the car
- the orange silicone gaskets were the last element of getting my covers leak free. Read the instructions that come with on torque settings, as if you get too aggressive they squish out and don't seal well
also - nice car!!
- Tony
Coat each aluminum surface with Hylomar Blue. We use that on gasketless transaxles like Hewland MK series snd LD200. I used it all over my newly built 930 engine.
QUOTE(roblav1 @ May 15 2020, 10:25 AM)
Coat each aluminum surface with Hylomar Blue. We use that on gasketless transaxles like Hewland MK series snd LD200. I used it all over my newly built 930 engine.
great sealer,used to only use Loctite products till I got on to this years ago,gasket choice is important too.This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.