My throw is starting to feel notchy again, which means it’s time to replace yet again. In 15 years this will be #6. I know Mark was looking at offering a better one but never saw the upshot.

So how often do you replace yours? It would sure be nice if they were self adjusting like old shoe type brakes.

I've personally experienced a cable failure while on the road, so regular inspection is warranted and would personally suggest replacement after a couple of adjustments due to cable stretch, or major service such as a clutch replacement. Check for wear and frayed cable wires at the wheel where the cable does a u-turn, since that area is exposed and subject to twisting stresses. Relatively cheap and easy part to replace so it doesn't leave you stranded.

I was lucky: cable snapped while I was shifting from 4th into 3rd. A bit of an adventure getting home the 70+ miles without shifting, including two unavoidable small towns with several stop lights. Blew a stop sign right in front of the local police station to avoid one of the red lights . 3rd was the only gear that I could make it all the way home without unduly lugging or over revving the engine, or running out of gas.

- MR
'

Long ago, broke a clutch cable, prior to replacement I was advised to hang it from one end, put a plastic bag around the other and pour some motor oil into the top till it came out the bottom into the bag. I let it sit for 10 -20 min or so In the sun, then installed it. After 5 years of DD use including a clutch change and many adjustments, it still looked and felt as if new.

mine continues to stretch even with little use from new ,why ?

I always carry a spare, just in case. A friend said he can install a mechanical linkage and be rid of the cable but is an expensive mod.

I like Calvin’s solution and will try that.

Yes now I have some time I will be getting back on that one.
The problem I personally experienced was the ground strap on the top of the transmission was corroded. The shortest path for current then became the clutch cable. Mine did that and finally broke as it was on a longer drive. So it's not just a cable issue.
Might check that ground.

I replace them whenever they break or are damaged which in 21 years and so many 914s I have lost count I think has been a total of twice, with one of those times being related to a header setup i installed that melted the cable.

Granted they get brand new cables before i put them on the road for the first time. One thing I always do when installing the tranny though is to make sure the clutch fork pivot is properly shimmed (which it never seems to be) I find this greatly improves pedal feel and keeps from having to over tighten the cable to get proper operation out of the clutch, and may help long term with the stretching/breaking issue.

Replaced mine a within a year after getting the car. Who knows how long it had been there. It's been 8+ years and the current one still looks and operations fine, but I carry a spare just in case.

@porschetub date='May 20 2020, 10:09 PM' post='2817394']
[quote name='RickS' post='2817373' date='May 21 2020, 03:09 PM']
My throw is starting to feel notchy again, which means it’s time to replace yet again. In 15 years this will be #6. I know Mark was looking at offering a better one but never saw the upshot.

So how often do you replace yours? It would sure be nice if they were self adjusting like old shoe type brakes.
[/quote]
mine continues to stretch even with little use from new ,why ?
[/quote]

Have you checked the clutch tube attachment points in the tunnel?

Are you using a 6 cable ?
Gemo 914-423-401-08 $46
or a 4
Gemo 914-423-401-06 $14

Same deal except my current cable is at least 15 years old.
IIRC it's a Gema brand cable.

All the new cables need lube. I stand on a chair, hold one end of the cable and drip it on the cable and let it run down through the housing. Bike lube works well.

This is a known failure mode. Happend to my 1st teener. Replaced cable, broke again in short order. Found, and replaced bad transmission ground strap. Next cable lasted about 8 years until vehicle left my care.

The ground cable replacement solved a host of other gremlins that had been plauging me for months. Sluggish cranking -- fixed. Intermittent ignition isssues -- fixed.

For 4, what is the difference between part -06 and part -05? One supplier indicates the former as the correct number and another supplier indicates the latter. Just a production sequence thing, or more substantive like wire gauge or something?

[quote name='bdstone914' date='May 22 2020, 03:38 AM' post='2817497']
@porschetub date='May 20 2020, 10:09 PM' post='2817394']
[quote name='RickS' post='2817373' date='May 21 2020, 03:09 PM']
My throw is starting to feel notchy again, which means it’s time to replace yet again. In 15 years this will be #6. I know Mark was looking at offering a better one but never saw the upshot.

So how often do you replace yours? It would sure be nice if they were self adjusting like old shoe type brakes.
[/quote]
mine continues to stretch even with little use from new ,why ?
[/quote]

Have you checked the clutch tube attachment points in the tunnel?
[/quote]

Yes I have Bruce,looks fine,kinda wish it was needing attention then I would know once and for all

914-6 cable is a little more substantial than the 914-4 cable and that the 6-cyl cable will work on 4-cyl cars.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=339128

This thread got me thinking about it as I had one fail in a 911 on the interstate two states from home. So, I've always carried one in the six. I used it when I had the engine out last year. Just ordered a new spare. Thanks for posting the part number above.

You don't have to leave it in one gear. If you are careful with the shifter, you can start the engine at a light in first gear, and use RPM matching to get all the way up through the gears. You can do the same downshifting. But you have to blip the throttle and keep some pressure on the gear lever. When the RPMs match between the gear and the shaft, it will slip into gear.

Drove all the way back to the hotel in Vonore TN from the tail of the dragon with a broken clutch cable. The only problem was getting started at a light or stop sign. I got really adept at not coming to a complete stop for traffic lights.

Yeah, I thought about resorting to double clutching if I absolutely had to, but I was making good progress w/o stopping. Although very familiar with manuals since I learned on one, I was 19 yo at the time and had only experimented with said technique a couple of times . I was afraid I'd either ruin the synchros or never get the car back into gear, so I just kept going. Was golden once I got to the freeway and the -6 engine seemed reasonably happy at 60 mph in 3rd.

- MR

So are we supposed to have lots of grease on the cable and wheel where it makes the turn? Does the thicker cable or the 6 really fit the 4?

Ditto the question.

Grease -- No. Especially not on the pulley or the exposed cable Grease attracts and holds dirt and debris.

You want light oil inside the cable housing as previously outlined.

Hitting the pulley pivot with a bit of silicone spray every now and then isn't a bad idea. You want the pully to rotate with the cable, not have the cable being pulled over the pulley and/or have grease with sand in it being ground between the pulley and the cable.

One of the leading causes of clutch cable failure on the 914 is loose/corroded/missing ground strap from the transmission to the body. This causes the engine and more importantly, the starter to draw ground from the body through the clutch cable. Sometimes this causes small welds between the cable and the metal it contacts leading to roughness. Sometimes the cable can heat up so much that it becomes weakened. Corrosion sets in to the damaged overheated part. Expect repeat failure if the ground path is not restored.