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Montreal914
Great progress Glenn!
I really like the craftsmanship!
Those oil lines look really nice!
Have you started looking at paint shop? I am slooowly making progress on the preparation of my roller for paint. I will be interested in hearing about your findings. beerchug.gif
pencap914
Tony-

Just found your handle on IG. Holy cow that's a nice build you have there. Hoping my build will turn out similar!

In the near future I'll need to weld on that oil feed pipe bracket. I saw someone made these and had them for sale (Perhaps tangerine racing?) I thought about making one too, looks pretty simple. Nothing a body saw and a die grinder couldn't handle. If you have pix and dimensions handy that would be much appreciated if you sent that over!

Good eye, yeah that's a Behr oil cooler from a Mercedes. Eric (Montreal914) included it when I bought the car from him.


Luke-

I'm noodling through the T-stat location now, still might go with a Mocal t-stat since they're about half the price of a Porsche unit off an SC or something. I Like what Ben (mb911) has done with his t-stat setup. (See the "914-6 GT oil cooler set up install and prototyping thread") I think my T-stat will go somewhere in a similar location, about where the old left side 4cyl engine mount went. I'll certainly post more pictures as I make progress!


Eric-

Thanks! I've only been casually asking around for a paint shop, no solid leads yet. A friend of mine recommended a place in Reno where he's had a few classic cars painted. His logic is outside of California, shops can use better paints since California is restrictive on the chemicals used.... not sure if this is true or not. There are a few shops outside of Sacramento that I may call to get quotes from as well.

I'm even considering hauling the shell up to Brosseau's coachworks in Oregon City to have him chuck up the shell on a Cellete bench, then media blast and epoxy primer. However, he's about 9-12 months out from having availability at the moment...

Let me know if you find a good shop! As you know, I have friends that live in SoCal and don't mind the haul down there. driving.gif



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Luke M
I've been following Ben's thread on the oil lines stuff. Just wanted to see what others where doing and compare. If you plan on running a 6 oil tank in the factory location you may want to remove that fan mount. We left my brothers in place and couldn't get the oil filter on with it there.
pencap914
QUOTE(Luke M @ Nov 15 2021, 10:05 AM) *

I've been following Ben's thread on the oil lines stuff. Just wanted to see what others where doing and compare. If you plan on running a 6 oil tank in the factory location you may want to remove that fan mount. We left my brothers in place and couldn't get the oil filter on with it there.



Good to know. I'm using one of Ben's oil tanks, so that fan mount is not long for this world. sawzall-smiley.gif
Retroracer
re: Just found your handle on IG. Holy cow that's a nice build you have there. Hoping my build will turn out similar!

- Thx so much

In the near future I'll need to weld on that oil feed pipe bracket. I saw someone made these and had them for sale (Perhaps tangerine racing?) I thought about making one too, looks pretty simple. Nothing a body saw and a die grinder couldn't handle. If you have pix and dimensions handy that would be much appreciated if you sent that over!

- These pics were what I based mine on:

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These pics are from a real -6 chassis NOTE the bad welding (factory!), and the thickness is the same as the metal on the engine lid. I made mine out of the leftover metal remaining when I cut out my GT engine lid. Hope this helps!

- Tony
pencap914
Thanks Tony! I should be able to work from that.
Luke M
Question on the SS oil lines going down the drivers side. Did you have to make any adjustments to the jack post or did the lines fit perfect like in your pic above?

pencap914
QUOTE(Luke M @ Nov 18 2021, 08:24 AM) *

Question on the SS oil lines going down the drivers side. Did you have to make any adjustments to the jack post or did the lines fit perfect like in your pic above?


Sorry just saw this Luke, The jack post never moved. It may look a bit different because of the outer stiffening kit over the top of the longitudinal. Its a bit of a maneuver to fish the upper SS line in between the jack post and the body skin, but I'm impressed how well the SS lines fit and line up. I'm glad they do, because they would be a bear to bend.

Hoping to get the final fit-up in the next week or so and start welding in the mounting studs.
Luke M
QUOTE(pencap914 @ Nov 30 2021, 04:30 PM) *

QUOTE(Luke M @ Nov 18 2021, 08:24 AM) *

Question on the SS oil lines going down the drivers side. Did you have to make any adjustments to the jack post or did the lines fit perfect like in your pic above?


Sorry just saw this Luke, The jack post never moved. It may look a bit different because of the outer stiffening kit over the top of the longitudinal. Its a bit of a maneuver to fish the upper SS line in between the jack post and the body skin, but I'm impressed how well the SS lines fit and line up. I'm glad they do, because they would be a bear to bend.

Hoping to get the final fit-up in the next week or so and start welding in the mounting studs.



Thanks for the reply. That's what I needed to know.. Now to hit up Ben for a set.
pencap914
Slowly pecking away at the tub, getting distracted playing with the engine now.

The 1975 2.7 911 engine I purchased last year included an alternator that looks and feels a little rough. Diode readings were also indicating the need for a refresh, so being uneducated on the subject of 911 alternators, I ordered one from Autohausaz, and it turns out its the later style alternator that will need to have the housing hogged out for it to fit. (See 2nd photo, bolts are too short)

Now the question is, do I send my original Motorolla unit out for a rebuild (~$250) or do I keep this $330 Valeo unit, and pay to have my fan housing cut out (~$100+)

I believe my original SEV/Motorolla unit is 50(?) amps with an external voltage regulator (VR), and the Valeo unit is 75 amps with an internal VR. I've heard folks complaining about having the VR integrated to the alternator, since it sits on top of the engine getting baked by engine heat all the time. So my question is it really worth the upgrade for more output? I plan on running a set of vintage 55A Marchal auxiliary driving lights on the 914, so I'm wondering if my current Motorolla unit would be beefy enough to handle my demand. Any thoughts on this subject?

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roundtwo
Inspirational metal work! Way to solder on through the tougher work.
pencap914
Well progress has been slow this spring/summer. Had my KTM grenade, so had to get the engine rebuilt, then had a 2nd kid, so live has gotten in the way of progress on the 914.

Since my last update;
  • Built a frame dolly
  • Had the alternator rebuilt by Rite-Way electric in San Francisco
  • Painted the fiberglass shroud
  • Did more hammer/dolly work on the welded fenders
  • Contacted Perry Kiehl to have a engine harness built

Really not looking forward to the front two cowl repairs where the windshield frame meets the front fenders.... That will be next on the list along with some other minor fabrication for oil cooling system.

Halfway through sanding the old rattle can black paint off.
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Cowl painted and placed on engine. Carburetors mock placed just to get me all fizzy about the project again.
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Frame dolly fabrication in progress
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Frame dolly completed and placed under the rotisserie.
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How she sits today:
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pencap914
KTM engine mid-rebuild. Hopefully it will get some use this fall, but with the fresh baby its hard to get the green light to get away for a weekend!

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Also, the other P-car is in constant need of attention....
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Anyway enough distractions. Back in the garage I go. welder.gif
Graydingo
Great thread! Thanks for documenting the 4cyl mount delete and front cooler pics. Very helpful.
pencap914
Finally after a year of avoiding it I decided to open the can-o-worms that is the front cowl repair. I'm just a home hobbyist who dabbles in this sort of thing so naturally I was a bit intimidated. Once again, a repair attempt was made (by a professional shop) under previous ownership. But they only did minimal surficial repairs that I had concerns that would come back to haunt me later if I didn't address it properly. So here's the first few cuts I made. Trying to avoid disturbing the folded corner of the fender to not mess with the door gap but it looks as if there's no way around chopping it off to get to the areas needed. I found a few good threads to click through photos, so hopefully it turns out better than it's status quo.

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Montreal914
I like the approach you are using. Seems like you are getting to the heart of the matter. I am wondering if you couldn't fabricate the missing replacement metal. idea.gif

The fender top AA replacement piece has a really large radius where the rubber strip will go at the joint fender/cowl. That is one reason why I decided not to use it. The other reason was the fold at the door gap (or lack thereof dry.gif ), but you kept the original in place, so you are good there, good idea!

I was not comfortable working that area, but overall, I am happy with my humble results. I am sure you will be fine. sunglasses.gif

Good luck and keep on sharing!

...Oh and that 2.7, yes that shine is very motivating!! smilie_pokal.gif
Montreal914
This is what I am referring to... dry.gif

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This large radius will not look good with the T shaped rubber strip in there. There will be gaps. This need to be pretty much square on both sides.
pencap914
@montreal914

Thanks for sharing that. Yeah I'm going to do my best to re-use the outer "folded" piece original to the car. The inner radius issue I'll have to cross that bridge when I get to it. Hopefully I can massage the AA piece enough to tighten up that radius. Some hammering will be in my future. I used cleko's to "save the spot" where the corner piece goes to hopefully preserve the door gap.

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pencap914
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pencap914
Made some more progress on the cowl repair:

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pencap914
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Graydingo
Inspiring metal work!
Cairo94507
That is looking very, very good. beerchug.gif
Retroracer
Nice skills there! Keep the posts coming....

- Tony
roundtwo
[quote name='pencap914' date='Nov 7 2021, 09:26 AM' post='2958276']
Also working on restoring the fiberglass engine shroud for the 2.7. Few cracks in the fiberglass will have to be addressed, then sanded and painted. This week I'll stop buy the automotive paint shop to talk about what would the best paint options would be for this. A fiberglass engine shroud is a challenging place for automotive paint....




Inspiring work! beerchug.gif
I'm at a cross roads as to what paint to use on my engine shroud (3.0 Carrera ) that's resistant to fuel and oil. Did you find a good product. I'm think about PPG single stage. thanks, Todd
pencap914
Todd,

I used a PPG 2K paint in a "SprayMax" can where the hardener is built into the can. My local automotive paint shop mixed it on site and said it should hold up to heat/fuel better than regular ol' spray paint. Here's the photo of what shade of green matched pretty close to the original green color the shroud was.


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pencap914
Made a patch panel inside the passenger side frunk weatherstip channel and some engine bits arrived! New wiring harness, 123 ignition distributor, studs to mount the PMO carburetors, and oil line restrictors from a 930. (IDK... Wayne D recommended them in his book...)

I know I know, the fan and shroud strap look ugly. This is where I have to say to myself "perfection is the enemy of progress." I've got bigger fish to fry with this project. I've acquired a 7R 2.4 block that I plan to build as the hotrod engine that will be all shiny. This 2.7 will hopefully just get me on the road.... someday...

Next on the agenda: Mount MOCAL oil T-stat, oil lines and oil cooler shroud. welder.gif

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TRS63
Slowly but surely you will be driving it ! Thanks for sharing !
Antoine
Montreal914
Very nice progress! Both of these cowl repairs look very good! smile.gif

That engine surely is a good motivator. Keep going at it, you will be at the painting stage before you know it. Have you found a shop near your area?
pencap914
QUOTE(Montreal914 @ Aug 8 2023, 06:37 AM) *

Very nice progress! Both of these cowl repairs look very good! smile.gif

That engine surely is a good motivator. Keep going at it, you will be at the painting stage before you know it. Have you found a shop near your area?


Thanks! I used your thread as inspiration to tackle the cowl repairs. I've thought about a few shops for painting, just talking with others with car projects like this. Thinking of a shop in Nevada, because they can use paints that aren't subject to California laws...? Something about VOC limits...? I haven't looked into it much, I'm just trying to put one foot in front of the other. I do have a media blasting place lined up in Sacramento. Just need to finish fiddling with the tub and get it to him to have it stripped and primed. My goal is to now have it blasted for me to do all the block sanding, high-build primering, and general paint prep in time to have it painted by summer 2024. I've even started researching into painting it myself.

Classic case of "Ok how hard can this be?" I'm sure I'll eat those words...

From what I understand here's the recipe for successful painting:
  1. Clean/Dry air supply
    Well I have a 40 gallon compressor, nameplate states 11.5 SCFM @ 90psi. Just need to rig up a way to keep the air clean and dry. Looking at using home-brew copper coil and an ice bucket in combination with some kind of cooler between the compressor and tank with a water catch drain.
  2. Ventilated Clean room/paint booth
    This one will take some construction, but seems totally doable. I've seen a few guys fabricate a homemade paint booth using a carport, plastic, box fans and filters. Keeping dust out is key!
  3. Proper environmental conditions (Temp/Humidity)
    Living in the central valley in Northern California, its pretty easy to find a string of days where we would be in temp range, and humidity hovers around 40-50%. Shouldn't be much of a problem.
  4. Attention to temperature/mixing of materials
    Just read the manufacturer's spec sheet on the paint materials....right?
  5. Technique
    I cant do much about my lack of painting experience other than Youtube videos, and perhaps a practice run on my wheel barrow and kids RadioFlyer wagon... I'm already ok with this car not winning any concourse events anyhow. I'm building this car for me to enjoy behind the wheel, not sitting in a lawn chair behind it at car shows. (No offense to those who enjoy that!) [indent]







pencap914
Car is back on the rotisserie to take care of a few things before sending off to media blasting.

Next task: Install the GT stiffening kit. I was debating on if this was worth it, but after talking with Eric Shea at Rennsport reunion at Laguna Seca, he's convincing me its a good idea if I'm going to run a 6cyl engine with wide tires. Who knows I may end up autocrossing or taking the car to the occasional track day so a few extra pounds of metal can't hurt.

Anyone have any tips/tricks or pitfalls to avoid?

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Since the car already has the "outer longitudinal stiffening kit" installed, I don't think I'll be using the left piece of this kit.

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pencap914
Well this idea backfired a bit...I painted the weld-through primer over these dots for where the rosette weld holes line up with the outer stiffening kit, but peeling off the dots leaves a sticky residue, or worse, top layer of paper rips off completely leaving the adhesive layer behind. No more stealing cheap Amazon.com colored dot stickers from my kids art supplies...

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TheRuttmeister
On clean dry air:

There are lots of options for in-line filters, ones that will filter dirt down to silly sizes (like, they will filter out viruses) plus oil and water. If your compressor allows it, its even better to put them in between the actual pump and the tank, that way your tank doesn't get full of water.
Just get those. Dirty air would ruin everything.

And air temp should only be a problem if you are really working your compressor really really hard, remember that the air cools as its being uncompressed!
Although I don't paint cars, so I'll defer to others if they disagree.
Ishley
I paint the inside of both panels… then use a sharpie to mark all the welds… and use a small 1/2 belt sander and sand the spots. It’s how I did it.
rhodyguy
What is the continuous duty cycle pressure for your comp?
pencap914
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Dec 22 2023, 08:35 AM) *

What is the continuous duty cycle pressure for your comp?


I'm not sure actually, Its a Husky 60-gallon single stage compressor with a single phase 240v motor with a thermal overload switch. From my experience running mostly body saws, impact guns, sanders and die grinders I've never had it "thermal out."

I think its rated for 11.5 CFM @ 90psi...?
pencap914
Finally got the shell dropped off at the media blasting place! aktion035.gif Now freeing up garage space to finish the engine test stand, and hopefully get this thing fired up and ready to go by the time it gets back. (~2 months).

There will be a few patches that will be needed but I don't expect anything big. Mostly in the driver side door there was a rust hole on the bottom front corner that will need repair. Lucky its in a spot that's inconspicuous.

Now to research what undercoating I want to use... I'm in between the three following products:
  • 3M Dynatron Dyna-pro 544
  • Wurth SKS
  • LizardSkin

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Felt cute, had to add the tail lights. This makes me want to build a single seat open-wheel racer from tube steel idea.gif

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mepstein
I’m using lizard skin. I’m not sure it’s the best but it’s the one I’ve chosen. I’m also using it inside the cabin for sound and temp control. The guys at my shop have used it before and it’s easy to diy. It can be painted which I intend to do.



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