I did get it in primer this morning. Hopefully I can shoot a little paint before it becomes too hot tomorrow.

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Dressed her up with a new coat this morning. I'll let it bake in the Sun for a few days before I saddle it back up.

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Looking good!

Thx, They're like women."They all look good when you ain't feeding 'em"! Now back to our irregular non-scheduled program.

While Lady Drivetrain sits patiently in the corner awaiting her shiny cradle:

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I wanted to get a better shot of the slave cylinder line that is straightened and moved to the psg side.

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And this is the removed part that I referred to earlier as a Whatchamacallit.

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Ans speaking to the transmission: If you plan to use a neutral safety switch, this is the one you'll need. Remove the old one which is N/O in neutral and replace it with this one which is N/C in neutral. Install it in series with the ground on the starter relay. I'll get into that later.

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Also, I wanted some real numbers on how much gear oil is needed after converting the TY75 to front wheel drive. I'd heard 1 xtra qt but I'm going to find out. I took a 1 gal can, opened it up and sat the center differential some bearings and washers (which you can't see) on the bottom and this one short shaft with it's bearing then filled the can with used motor oil to a mark on the inside of the can. It is roughly the height of the center differential.

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Then let it sit a few minutes so the bearings and other crevices could fill with oil.Next I removed the parts and let them begin to drip the oil back into the container.

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Tomorrow AM I will measure how much additional oil it takes to fill it to that line. Then add the one shaft (pictured below) I couldn't fit with the other parts and add oil to another mark which I'll add above the old one. Once I've determined the additional volume that was required I'll measure the amount the nose cone held and subtract that amount. I'll probably discover that it is 1 qt. indeed and that I've managed to piss off a hour ,once again.

So, before the afternoon heat crept in I was able to knock out a few more items. First the pedal assembly was removed and I installed the adapter plate and MC on it.Much more to do on this later. I'll also get into a little more detail on the adapter plate.

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Won't be needing this anymore.

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Nor this.

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After removing the mechanical clutch cable I inserted the AN3 Aeroquip hose, for the hydraulic clutch, in the clutch cable's old tube. To be continued................

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Great thread! Thank you for posting all the details. I am doing an EZ30d® and WRX 5 speed conversion
myself. What are you going to use for CV joints and half shafts?

Thank you.

Bob Marx

Sorry I'm late getting back to you @rmarx . Just got back yesterday from a 2000 mile trip to CO and back. I'll be using the 914 shafts with one 914 CV joint and one Subaru CV on each shaft. I cut the shaft down to the length I want then send them to Dutchman Axle (503-257-6604) to have the cut end re-splined for the Subaru CV. I should be detailing that sometime next week.

Now back to the pedal cluster conversion. First remove the roll pin from the clutch pedal.
Then slide the shaft out and remove the return spring from the shaft. It is on the opposite end of the shaft from the roll pin. Now reassemble the shaft and re-insert the roll pin.

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This is where I differ from the last build. I am using the OEM fork and clip that previously attached to the clutch cable. Pictured below is the bolt I welded to the Honda master cylinder push rod. I determined where to cut the push rod by threading the bolt into the fork leaving myself room to adjust to or fro.I them drilled a very shallow hole in the head of the bolt and inserted the cut end of the push rod.

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Next I cut the spot welds on the 2 bolts that are attached to the cluster which the brake master cylinder bolts to. They are too short once the adapter plate is added. There are 2 spot welds on each bolt. Using a Dremel tool you only need to cut the the better part of one spot weld on each bolt.

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Then place an old socket over the bolt head and squeeze it in a vise until the other spot weld pops. Sometimes you can hammer them out but it's easier with a vise. Replace the old ones with new bolts that are 12-14mm longer than the old ones.

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Finally you need to trim the accelerator pivot arm for clearance. See pic below.

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Impressive skills Kent!! As Ferdinand said "nobody made the sports car I wanted, so I made it myself" or something like that....

Great work Kent. When I rebuilt my pedal assembly I also added a new return spring for the clutch pedal to return it to upright.

Century spring PN TO-1026. I have about 10 spares. If your interested in one I’ll drop it in the mail!

You master fabricator, you

That's a good add to the pedal cluster. If you want to lighten your inventory, I'd love to help you out! Do you have any pics of what it looks like installed?

Kent-

You are officially a WORLDLY MacGyver!

Can't wait to resume our Sat morning breakfasts @ Richies

Carry on...
Oscar

So Ferdinand was a cheap Bastard too? Ross, you don't need a return spring. It will stay up all by itself. Jack of all trades, master of none. I'm waiting on an AN# 90 that won't be here until Sunday. After that I'll post a pic. Just say when. Let's get Rudy too. Have you seen his shop lately?

Picking up where I left off. Here is a pic of the pedal cluster before it's re-installed. I did not use the AN3 90 pictured as it was too tight against the bulkhead. I did not run into this on the 73 conversion so I was surprised when it didn't fit as planned. This car had some metal work done to it previously and I suspect something changed slightly during that process.

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Here are several pics from the underside of it mounted in place. You can see the black AN3 swivel 90 that I used in place of the one in the other pic's. It was tighter than Socks on a Rooster but fit nicely.

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A view from inside as it sits before connecting the fork, clevis or throttle cable.

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Connecting the pedal to the slave cylinder push rod. You can see the AN3 line in a couple of the pics. It is fed through the old clutch tube.

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And a few with the throttle cable connected showing the clearance. It's close but they do clear one another.

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And a couple of "finished product" shots. To be continued..............

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Half shafts are out. After cut to length & the CV's are removed and they are ready for their trip to the machinist for a re-spline.

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Also wired in the neutral switch, installed throttle cable sans the barrel end and the 3" silicon 90 for air intake. Outside of the harness modification, this is the "90% done and 90% to go" phase. So many things left to do after the engine and transmission are in place. Then Frank from AZ came by and picked up the transmission for his Suby conversion this morning. He is hoping for a spring launch, 2021.

The first thing I did was remove the 4 bolts from the shifter that attaches it to the OEM base plate.
EDIT: I should mention that this setup is for cars w/o a center console. If you have a console it is not necessary to cut the tunnel. Nor will it be necessary to cut the shifter base. Simply locate the shifter rod where the old one was. Then drill 4 8mm holes and use 4 studs as stand offs to elevate the shifter base above the tunnel enough to clear it. It will be necessary to raise the deck lid of the console a couple of inches.
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Next I marked the base plate along the line of the curvature. Cut it on the flat part before the curve begins so it is nice and flat when screwed down. I also drill out out the threads in the 2 tack welded rear plate nuts at this time.

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After cutting the base plate re-attach the shifter assembly to it.

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Now hold the assembly with the cut edge adjacent to the flange of the brace that spans from side to side. Then trace out the round part of the shifter base. Next drill that out with a 1.5" hole saw. You can see that the hole ends up next to the 8mm & 6mm existing holes. The hole saw actually removed the 6mm nut that was tack welded in. No matter; that wasn't to be used anyway.

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Now sit the shifter assembly back in place. With the round part of the shifter assembly centered in the hole you just cut. Mark the remaining area that needs to be trimmed. Do your best to center the base left & right as there isn't much room for the 2 front bolts.

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Then I checked that the shifter sat where it needed to be and that it could move through it's full range of motion. Then using the base plate as the pattern I marked the holes with a center punch. If you don't have a set of center punches you can used the holes in the base plate as a guide for your drill bit.

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After drilling the 4 holes I placed 2 8mm bolts from inside the tunnel and used perm-a-gum to hold them in place. Then I placed the shifter assembly over the 2 8mm bolts and attached the nuts. Notice the cut on the base plate is adjacent to the flange on the crossmember.

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The front nuts are below the base plate and the right side nut was easy to start but the left side was so close that I had to drill a relief hole from the side of the tunnel. If I had been more careful I would have moved the assembly over 1/4"to the right. After I get the cables I will trim and install the back half of the base plate that was cut off. I will need that part for attaching the cables. To be continued...................

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Here are a few pics of it anchored in place.

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Kent,
This new project is looking good. I was inspired by your H6 at RRC2020 and I purchased a 2003 Outback last week and I have a manual transmission to match up to it. The H6 is such a smooth running engine and I am excited to get in in something soon.

Nice shifter location.
How far back from the original one is the new straight up shift level? I am looking into doing this with the stock setup. Probably upgrading to a Rennshift but with a straight up stick.

From the 904 side drawing, the shifter is before the steering center point (drawing a vertical line down).

The 914/4 or /6 in the center image, is way to the front, as we know. With the bent lever, the movement is much more of an up and down vs. front to back.

Last cross section is the 914-8 where the straight up shifter is pretty much in line (vertical) with the steering center point. The 914-8 had a completely different shifter linkage that actually went 90 degrees to the passenger side in front of the seat, then along the passenger long.

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Thx Ross. I was equally impressed with your's. More especially that steel roof. Seamless installation you have there. These Subaru conversions are showing up everywhere these days. Like a marriage made in Heaven, eh?
EDIT: @914Subaru Ross, I forgot to mention that Outfront Motorsports has the 3 bolt manifold exhaust flanges that you will need when fabricating your exhaust system.

I'll get you a side view pic once my axles come back from the machine shop. Presently it is on the rack and I can't open the doors enough for a good pic. Can't roll it off away w/o the flanges in the rear wheel bearings either. I'll get a few measurements in the mean time. I will say it is easily within reach where it sits.
EDIT: @Montreal914 I should be able to roll it off next week as my axles are due back Friday, I hope. I did a visual and it appears that the stalk is lined up with the center of the steering wheel's vertical plane. I'll put a level to it and verify later.

The fuel hose arrived this weekend so I was able to button that up and run the line up for the MC reservoir. That allowed me to install the gas tank. This is the tank that I originally had modified for the conversion on the '73. You might remember that I pulled it installed another with an external pump. That was done when I was chasing my tail and trying to eliminate the vapor lock problem was I was having at that time. Turned out that it had nothing to do with the Subaru submerged pump. Regardless I kept it and I'm glad that I did. One less thing to do. Beside, I really like having the hose connections on top.

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I was able to scratch the throttle cable off the list today. The cable from the V8 was still installed so I thought "What the Hell" nothing to lose. I'll try and modify it for my needs. There isn't much to it. As you can see in the first pic below it was way too long and didn't have the correct end on it either. I needed to shorten the sheath by 12" as well as the 3/16 inner steel cable.

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I attached a 5/16 FI style clamp adjacent to the cut. The innermost part of the sheathing has a 3/32" plastic tube. Around that is a SS flat wound wire and finally the black plastic outer layer. I used a Dremel blade to cut the cable. I cut it from the end that mates to the firewall since these are usually falling apart at this junction. Just my luck this on wasn't. I was able to remove the 12" section by placing the small end in the vise and clamping down slightly on the edges of each clamp mark.i.e. the clamp they used in the factory is octagon shaped. By pressing slightly on the crown of each corner helps to round out the end al little bit. Then pulling the cable while rotating it clockwise. it slowly backed out. To get the sleeved end back to round I placed a 17/64" drill bit with the bald end up in the vise. Then hammered the sleeve back over it. It only went in about 14". I looked inside the sleeve and noticed these tiny dimples that are there to help grip the sleeve. So I used a 1/4" bit to flatten the dimples some what then followed up with the 17/64" to round it out. Now I was able to thread the cable sheath back onto the sleeve by pushing while turning counter clockwise. It worked like a champ. I won't trim the steel cable until I have the pedal board and gas peddle back in place but that will only take a minute. I'm happy with the way it turned out but in all honesty the only reason I tried this was I had nothing to lose and everything to gain. Start to finish was less than 30 minutes. Sorry about the order of the pics. Something about this site isn't friendly about posting and editing pics with this Mac. Hoping for some upgrades here now that we are supporting it $$$ wise.

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Thank you for the added shifter information. Looking forward seeing it on a side view,

Excellent work Kent! Subscribed
@76-914


Mark, long time man. You're supposed to use your new welder to make your own cart. @euro911


As was I Ross. Your roof looks fantastic.
@914Subaru

Hey, Mike ( @Gint ). Yes it has been a long time. It happens when there's too much on one's plate ... especially when there's more than one plate to deal with

Hope you & Sharon are doing well? ... and maybe, some day, we'll all get to have a beer in some God-forsaken parking lot again somewhere

Still kicking over here.

It's inevitable!

Future

I thought I should post this for any of you guys that need to cut down your 1/2 shafts for re-fitting to the Subaru TY75 series 5MT. This applies only to the transmissions with the male output stub. . This method of measurement is for applications where the centers of the transmission stub and wheel bearing are lined up vertically & horizontally. If your application is not centered a simple right angle trig calc will give you the exact difference but it ain't going to amount to squat unless you have >3" variance. I do not recommend a common tape measurer for this job. I used a std 6' rule since it won't flex and has the sliding brass rule for inside measurements. Look at the 1st pic below and you will see I use the bearing to measure from. Notice I'm not measuring against the red rubber seal either. I was going to use the edge of the circular part of the drop arm but I found a difference between my '73 and this '70 model. The one pictured is my '70 but my '73 has a raised edge. I figure the metal side of the bearing is the only constant so this is what I measured off.

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Now measure the exact distance to the end of the output stub. You can see why I like this "old school" 6' rule in this pic.

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Once you have this measurement subtract 1/8" for fitting clearance and then subtract another 2 3/8". Or more simply stated where X = distance between bearing and stub;
X - 2.5" = desired length of half shaft. You can see resulting clearance when installing the assembled half shaft in the pic below. About 1/8" and this is with both CV's compressed in as far as they will go. Once assembled you should be able to slide the 1/2 shaft ~1" side to side.
****NOTE**** Don't assume both side are equal. Measure both sides. Ask me how I know. I made this mistake 6 years ago.

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I've used Dutchman Motor Sports for both cars and their price has only increased $5 in the past 6 years. Contact there is Travis. They will need the male stub off of a Subaru 1/2 shaft, the female Spyder or broach off your Subaru CV and your cut to length 914 half shafts. And a payment of ~$175.00.

Dutchman Motor Sports
1250 E. Piper Ct.
Meridian, ID 83642
(503) 257-6604

And a few more pics just to take up space. To be continued.................

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@Montreal914 Got the 1/2 shafts back in so I could roll it out. Here are the pics you requested showing the shifter in relation to the steering wheel. Some pics have the straight edge , which was level vertically, against the wheel and some against the horn pad.

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Thank you
That is very similar to the 914-8 cross section, pretty much in line with the lower part of the steering. Very nice!

It's been a few weeks and only a few items remain. One of those items are the shifter cables which should arrive by the end of this week. I haven't even thought about how I will cover the shifter in this car. The other one was easy as I could hide everything between the console and middle cushion. But moving ahead I use some wire rope to visualize the route the cables will run because it is somewhat similar to the cables stiffness and will prevent me from making too small of a radius. I clamp the cables to the shifter on one end and to the transmission on the other. Nothing magic here but it does help to see where they will run.

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They will lay on top of the tunnel then drop thru the rear tunnel access cover and out the same hole in the firewall that the old shift rod passed through.

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And from the engine compartment side.

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And finally to the transmission.

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I cut the cover to allow the cables to enter the tunnel.

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Then make a couple of small templates for the gussets.

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And form the gussets

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Then clamp together and weld. I use this term weld loosely as I blew a hole in the thin metal and had a couple more spots bulge out on the other side of the weld. I threw some primer on it for now and will hammer down those bulges later.

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All of the plumbing is completed and tied in with the exception of the radiator filler neck. The one you see on the end of the red silicone hose is just too flimsy so I ordered another that is more substantial. It should be here in 2 weeks. I left all of the hoses a bit long for now. After I've got a few hours on the car I'll cut them to final length.

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The clutch is bled and the reservoir is topped off.

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And the speedometer should be here in two weeks.

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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. God willing and the creeks don't rise this thing will be on the road by Christmas. To be continued..................

No idea how I have missed this thread until now. Nice job documenting it, I am sure it will help me as I embark on my trans swap soon.

Thanks for all the great Ideas ! Your the MAN !

Looks great Kent! What size radiator hoses did you use? 3/4 and 7/8? I’m actually thinking about going back to smaller diameter myself.

Yes, 7/8" & 3/4". LMK if you do. I'll send you some nice blue silicon hose that I have left over, Chris . I forget which but I think it is 3/4" that I have surplus stock.

Oh nice, will do Kent!

I have some catching up to do here. I received my cables from CCI and they are top notch as usual. In case you're wondering they are 90" & 98" long. Here are a few pic's of them and of the installation.

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This lever was made using a scrap piece 1/2" steel pipe, 1/8" plate steel and an AN-3 bolt

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A few shots from inside the cabin.

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Party ON!

Nice job, might have to borrow a few of your design ideas when I put my Subaru gearbox in.

Thx Mike. Well, I went to way much trouble installing one of these Speed Hut Speedometers a few years back when I converted the black 914. I made another gauge panel to accept the gauge but there is an easier way. The problem is that the plastic mounting nut will not screw onto the body of the gauge because the threads on the body of the gauge are partially covered by the shoulder/flange of the OEM opening. So you will need to remove the 4 small metal pieces (with a Dremel) to shorten the shoulder that the gauge body sits in. There are 4 of these "tabs". You can see 3 of them sitting on my leg after cutting them off. The trimmed off piece of the rubber ring is also in the pic. Next you need to cut the rubber mounting ring to shorten it's depth so that it doesn't protrude past the shoulder where the small pieces were trimmed off. The rubber ring is easily trimmed with scissors. See pic's below .Thx to Stephan @914forme for the rubber ring. Merry Christmas ya'll.

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If it ain't one thing it's two. I've been chasing this rough running engine and I've decided I need to just bite the bullet and throw another engine at it. The rear L cylinder seemed to be the culprit I'd pull the injector lead and it made no difference. Flipped injectors and no difference. Flipped coils and no difference. Any lead I pulled on the left bank was similar but more pronounced. Anything I pulled on the right bank would make a drastic difference. There is also a popping noise on the left exhaust. It would smooth out on acceleration and the engine had plenty of power. I had heard a chattering that I assumed was the AC compressor. Yesterday I pulled the belt and the chatter was still there. I think I have a left bank tensioner that died on me. I have a 120lb compression and today I'll do a leak down test just for shits n grins but I've already convinced myself it needs an engine. That they are plentiful and cheap is the good news. That I need to pull and install another is the bad news. I'd probably go in and replace the tensioners & rails which are available but this engine has about 200K on the clock and I think my $$$ would be better spent on another engine.

Very cool build and thanks for sharing it! Are you worried at all about the coolant lines running under the pans like that? I know some speed bumps that would love to eat the hoses for that one time you go over them too fast...

Not too much. But I keep a splice coupling and a few hose clamps with me when traveling.

How many turbos on the replacement 6? 2?

I'd check the harness too to make sure that's good. The tensioner would affect the whole bank not just 1 cyl. Chatter could be a dead/flat lifter which might fix itself with use. At this point I'd assume it was a lifter.

Chris thx for helping but the noise is from the front in the chain area and doesn't have that tat-tat-tat rhythm. Checked the harness first thing per the factory manual. Voltage is good from the ECM to the molex plugs at the coils.

Well it's been 5 weeks and I wish I were further along but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I did shit can the engine as it needed a new tensioner which meant all new tensioners, guides and guess what chains weren't available. Given it had over 200K on the clock it was off to San Diego for an $850 JDM replacement motor. And since I'd pulled the drivetrain I bought one of Ian's (Cold Water Inc) cradles. I'd seen his newest design which allows for the removal of the transmission , should the need arise, while leaving the engine in the car. It had winked at me and the welds were a work of art so I took the plunge and scraped mine. So far I like his cradle more than mine in every respect except one. I'll get to that later.
First thing is to bolt it in place. Now is the time to discover any gotchas before mounting the drivetrain on the cradle only to find it won't bolt up to our car. And it did bolt right up.

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I should have left it as it was but I had to paint it. I regretted this later as I didn't let it cure and scraped it off in a few places. I'll touch it up later.

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Ian's cradle doesn't have wheels or a place to mount any so I sat it on 3 furniture dollies and tied the 3 together with some 1x2's. I also placed a few 4x6's between the cradle and dollies to raise it a bit. Otherwise the car needs to sit too close to the ground during hook up. Then you just roll it in place and attach it to the car with the supplied hardware. The cradle has about 3" of front to back adjustment. I went with it midpoint. That gives me about 2" clearance where the harness' join which is a tight area otherwise. It also gives you a little more clearance around the starter connections.

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So the newest engine runs great, pulls strong and is loud as Hell which brings me to this chapter. Time for an exhaust system. I really like the exhaust system I have on the '73 so I duplicated that original order and went about installing it yesterday. You remember me saying there was one thing I didn't like about Ian's cradle? Well this is it. I can't use the same install method as he has a brace that interferes with how I installed the exhaust on the '73 using my cradle. Hopefully I'll be able to use the same combination of mufflers and keep the center out design but I had to order some additional fittings before I could go any further today. I'm using all 16ga SS so it will be good for many, many years. Her are some pif's of where I left off today.