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Full Version: CDI/3.0L Coil Wiring Questions, but my real question is: What’s the best way to redo my 3.0L with CIS engine wiring?
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messick
As I mentioned in my intro post, someone tried to hot-wire the coil in my 3.0L six conversion, and they super exploded it.

So, I bought a new MSD coil (after reading like 1000 complaints about the silver Bosch ones), and after looking at a CDI 6 pin wiring diagram, and using a multimeter to see which cut wire hooked up where on my CDI box connector, I now have the two wires that will hook up to my coil, and which terminal each will hook to.

But, the jerks that tried to steal the car also cut the shielded green wire that goes between the dizzy and the CDI. Thanks dudes ar15.gif

So, my current plan to to temporally jury rig a spice for two parts of the shielded green wire just to get to point where I can test my CDI box, because right now it’s not clear if it also got blown up or not during the hot-wiring.

If the Bosch box if fried, I was thinking of getting the MSD box since a new one is like a third the price of a modern version of the Bosch one.

Pretty straight forward, But…..

In convos with my dad, he says that far as he knows, the only part of the 914 relay board that’s still in use is a relay that turns on the fuel pump if they key is on. Since that means the pump will stay on if there is a crash that breaks all the fuel lines, which is VERY BAD, he bought a new relay that would make sure to only turn the pump on if the engine is running. However, he never got around to installing it. Also, since the battery got moved to the front trunk, the fuel pump wire goes all the way to the battery and connects to the positive terminal with an inline 30 amp fuse.

Soooo, after having to rip the harness apart to get the green shield wire permamentally fixed, combined with (potentially) replacing the CDI box, and adding the new fuel relay, and a removing a now useless relay board that connects up a bunch of other wiring harness wires that no longer do anything, why don’t don’t I just take everything apart and do it the right way???

Anyone gone through a similar process? I’ve found some references to people buying 914 -> 911SC harness adapters, would something like that make sense in my case?

Nick
messick
So, after finding a bunch of relay board diagrams, it appears whomever did the conversion stuck a new wire into the rear 12 pin connector to get 12V, and that wire's connection is now bad. Unfortunately, in opening the connector and confirming which of the pins this new wire was connected to, a couple of the pins "escaped", and now I need to refer to my diagrams to get everything back into place.

Anyway, now I'm motivated more than ever to get a purpose built harness for this. I sent an email to IronHillRestorations via this site, so hopefully Perry will get back to me soon.
IronHillRestorations
What year your engine? If it’s a Lambda engine you have to use an O2 sensor. Non Lambda is easier. I’m so far behind, all I can see is butts. If you can wait a couple months, I can fix you up
messick
QUOTE(IronHillRestorations @ Jul 3 2020, 10:14 AM) *

What year your engine? If it’s a Lambda engine you have to use an O2 sensor. Non Lambda is easier. I’m so far behind, all I can see is butts. If you can wait a couple months, I can fix you up


I looked up looked up the engine serial and it's appears to be 1979 Carrera California motor.

I can definitely wait. In the short team I'm trying to get this running at all before I go back and do more longer term fixes, so two months is fine.
ClayPerrine
For your CIS system, I would install an oil pressure cutoff switch. Put an oil pressure sender into the circuit that will cut off the fuel pump if there is no oil pressure in the engine.

Pegasus Racing oil pressure fuel cutoff.


Add an additional circuit to make the fuel pump turn on while you are cranking the engine. If you're really paranoid, put in an inertial cutoff switch too.

Inertial fuel pump cutoff switch.

Clay
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