Not sure if I have an issue with my 2.0 T4 or not. I have dual Weber 44s on a stock rebuild about 3000 miles ago; I did have the hydraulic lifters added.

While my temp gauge is being repaired, I picked up one of the Save My Bug T4 dip stick temp units. It replaces the stock dipstick with a device that turns on your oil light on the dash if the oil temp gets up around 235.

After installing it I noticed oil all over my engine bay, taking a look while reving the engine up near 2500 to 3000 oil would be travelling up the dipstick home and squiring out the top of the unit.

If I pull my oil filer cap the oil stops traveling up the dipstick hole and out of this temp unit. The suction seems normal for other T4 I have had.

Any ideas, is this is sign of something I need to look into.

Brian

How is your breather system plumbed and did you check it for obstructions? Sounds like crankcase pressure is too high.

This motor has a breather system I haven't worked with before, you can see the crankcase tube in this video going into a box at the back of the engine bay.

https://youtu.be/HQZorco2sV0

Brian

That should work OK provided the box is not obstructed and/or the PVC valve on the engine side is not stuck. Does the problem go away if you use the stock dipstick? I’ve seen those dipsticks in Bugs before that didn’t do what yours is doing.
FYI I had a similar breather setup on my car and the guts were removed from the PVC valve making it simply a union to attach the hose

The three things that come to mind for me are obstruction in the breather as mentioned above, accidental overfill of oil, or a blowby condition.

Do you happen to have a brand name or company name for this breather set up? I would love to do some research on it while it's hooked up to my T4. Thanks Michael

Brian

There is no way for the oil that accumulates in the BB to escape. There should be a sponge type filter in it. The vapor consolidates. The oil is trapped and builds up with the drain hoses being higher than the BB assem exits. Have you ever taken the top off the BB?

I came back to post after looking at the video, and agree with what I think rhodyguy is saying. I can't see the entire breather system in the vid, but it looks like it may not be plumbed correctly. I'd want the breather box up high for one thing so oil can drain back to the engine. As it is set up now, any oil that makes it up that tube will end up in the box with nowhere to go. And there needs to be a vent to atmosphere somewhere, usually off the breather box and through one of those mini air filter looking things.

Gentleman I will have a look after work today and report back, I haven't ever messed with carbs on a T4. Ill check the PCV value and look at the box (never even looked at it).

Brian

That looks like an Empi breather box and if so it is vented around the top cover. There is a screen and sponge inside to collect oil and the top is spaced up from the sides to form a vent opening. Hard to see unless you look closely or remove the top via 4 screws but the box is vented. Also in the video I could see the hoses on the side oF the box are plumbed to the air filter tops.

Guys here is what I found with my breather set up in the car, let me know what you think and toss out some suggestions, please.

https://youtu.be/Z5PZ5_kJc_U

Brian

The plastic ring on the PVC valve is a nut and the valve is removed from the inside the oil stand box. The box comes off by removing there bail.
Your breather system while may not be optimum is not the problem UNLESS the valve is stuck. You can run the engine with the hose removed from the valve and check for air coming out of the crankcase thru the valve. I think you can remove the white nut and fish the valve out thru the oil fill if needed. Like I said before, the guts were removed from my PVC and it did not cause any problems. So if it breathes OK thru the valve, and the oil is not grossly overfilled, then there's an issue with the dipstick although without looking at it I can't imagine what could be wrong. If it were my car, assuming the PVC valve is OK I would put the stock dipstick back in.
Back to your original post; were you having problems with the oil running hot? Unless there is something wrong with the engine, cooling flaps, or oil cooler; there should not be a concern about oil temp while driving around town. If you're driving at high speeds (like 75+) or in the mountains on hot days then I would be more concerned about oil temp.

Michael, I will pull that PVC valve this week and see. We have a home in Pinetop, Arizona and the road thru the Salt River Canyon can be taxing on just about any 4 cylinder engine LOL. The T4 isn't compatible with the 911/912 oil temp gauge in the car, this is the reason for adding this little temp dipstick. Up until I wanted to add it, with the stock dipstick I haven't had any issues.

Should I wash that foam sponge while I have things apart? And should that be a normal maintenance item in my yearly tune up?

Brian

Yeah, the Salt River Canyon will heat up a 4-cyl. You need to use the correct sender for your 911 gauge. This chart may help determine the correct sender. It won’t hurt to clean the sponge but that sponge isn’t doing much due to the way your system is plumbed. The breather air is being sucked up by the air cleaners before it pushes thru the sponge.
Click to view attachment

Lot of pictures here:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...100160&st=0

More pictures:

http://www.tangerineracing.com/crankcasebreather.htm

Lucky do you happen to have a photo of the bottom of the oil filler tower?

Brian