Has any one made their own SS fuel lines instead of Buying Tangerines Pre made kit ..If so how did you do it .. ??

I'll go out on a limb and suggest it's so much faster and easier to buy a proven product like Tangerine's lines.
I LOVE to fabricate my own stuff whenever possible but for something like stock fuel lines with all the niggly bends and formed ends, I'd go buy vs build.
But in the end, that's just one person's opinion.

Ebay sells rolls of 1/4" and 5/16 of steel, copper steel and coppper fuel line. Around $22

Autozone and others sell brake line stuff, in rolls and straight up to 5'. Lines are 8mm (5/16"), and 10mm (3/8") depending on year. Lowes has a handheld tubing bender. Also need a bubble flare tool.

It's not hard, but there is a bend in the middle of the tunnel that should be there so it doesn't rub. It will take a few installs to get it 'right'.

If you lived in the US I'd say just buy the Tangerine. The only reason I'm doing my own is I also ran a hydraulic clutch line and redoing the rear brake lines to fit chassis mods. I also made a tubing straightener for the roll of tubing. I'm in it for enough hours to make the Tangerine kit a better value.

I did this on mine with stainless tubing and made all the appropriste bends. Not difficult.

Before the SS lines were available i used solid brake lines with flared fittings at the ends. I was able to connect fuel line to each end.
Here is the article I used over on pelican.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...e_gas_lines.htm

Later I bought my SS lines from @rotary914 They were very reasonable.

Yes. Bought stainless from Jegs or Summit and silver soldered AN fittings on the ends. Not really worth it, but then again I have been known to make my own gravel as a diy project...

I did the hard way and bought coils of 3/8" and 5/16" stainless tubing from Summit Racing. I inserted an insulated 3mm solid copper wire (from ROMEX) into the old fuel line, pushing that wire from the engine compartment, emerging at the junction point beneath the fuel tank. From the rear of the car, I pulled the old fuel line out. What remained behind was the copper wire, which served as a guide when I force fed the stainless tubing towards the fuel tank. I was uncoiling tubing and pushing it forward. You of course have to have all the center tunnel openings exposed to see your progress, and to bend up the factory hold-down tabs. You'll also need to use a mirror at the gas pedal area to see your progress. I did this 15 years ago, and I don't recall Tangerine Racing offered the pre-bent stainless fuel lines yet, possibly, and I was too cheap buy it pre-bent. My vaguest recollection is that I had to cut/remove the front end of the old fuel line, since the plastic/nylon lines are force-fitted onto curved steel tubing at the gas tank end. I eventually got the new lines threaded into the OEM double hole grommet at the base of the tank, and they simply come straight out. I also added sleeves of slit fuel hose onto the stainless tubing to limit vibration transfer. After you get it installed, you'll have to blast the lines with compressed air clear to ensure you don't have a bunch of grit/dirt when the tubing was advanced forward. I also installed two proper clamps at each junction whenever fuel hose meets stainless tubing.
15 years and counting with no leaks.

A difficult job at best, and oh yeah, I did it with the motor still in place. So I was working in a cramped space. If I had to do it over again, 1. Buy from Tangerine Racing or 2. Remove motor if using coiled tubing.

I did it years ago when doing my six conversion. There is a thread on here somwhere that shows the whole install. This was before Tangerine Racing sold the kits. I have done lots of 914s since then, and I always recommend the Tangerine racing kits. I even put them in my other two 914s.

If I'm running duel Carbs I would Only have to put one line in .... Right ??
Also Thanks Guys for ALL the great responses ..

Yes

I am having to fabricate all my own lines for my T4 in a Notchback. At first I tried the thinnest wall 3/8 I could find but my hydraulic flare tool had a difficult time flaring it.
I just got a coil of 5/16 .02 wall and the flare tool works fine. Flares are needed for the FI pressure. I found I have to work the bends slowly with the few hand tools I have in order to avoid crimps/kinks.
I made my own tubing straightener using 5 nylon dished wheels and a couple of sections of square stock. It is amazing how straight you can work it out. Lots of how to's for that tool on the interweb.
The best price I found on the tubing was a Brewery supply place in New York and they also carry thinner wall than most places I found.