Anyone BTDT and has some wisdom to share?
-Rusty
Full Version: leak at tailshifter shift fork
Is this a fix that I can do with the transmission still in the car?
Anyone BTDT and has some wisdom to share?
-Rusty
Anyone BTDT and has some wisdom to share?
-Rusty
Not so much BTDT, but...
If I recall correctly, a rollpin holds the fork externally to the shaft. If you're really squeamish about removing the nosecone, I think you can drive out that rollpin to get access to the seal. The seal should be pressed in flush to the housing. To get it out, modify an old flat blade screwdriver by grinding on one side such that it resembles a hook at the end. Insert it between the shaft and the seal, grab as much toward the OD of the seal as possible, and give the screwdriver a few good yanks. This is the kind of tool I've seen made up for pulling front seals out of 911 gearboxes in-car.
Of course, pulling the nosecone is not a real big deal either. If the transmission is still in the car, place some support under the transmission, remove the ground strap nut and mount bolts (I've been indoctrinated to remove the four 8mm bolts, not the two 14mm nuts), let the drivetrain drop down a little, and remove the nuts on the nosecone. Of course, by this time you have drained all the gear oil. With the transmission in neutral, pull off the nosecone, taking care not to take out the intermediate plate and gear cluster with it. Be careful not to let the reverse/ 1st gear idler fall to the ground. Replace the seal and nosecone gasket, position the idler gear such that the undercut section of the spacer mates with the bearing housing (you'll see what I'm talking about), and slide it in. You may need to remove the access plate at the bottom of the nosecone to position and align the shift rod somewhere in this process.
I've performed this kind of operation with sideshift cars when I'm replacing a broken nosecone, so I'm a bit unfamiliar with the possible snags of a tailshifter. Hope this helps.
If I recall correctly, a rollpin holds the fork externally to the shaft. If you're really squeamish about removing the nosecone, I think you can drive out that rollpin to get access to the seal. The seal should be pressed in flush to the housing. To get it out, modify an old flat blade screwdriver by grinding on one side such that it resembles a hook at the end. Insert it between the shaft and the seal, grab as much toward the OD of the seal as possible, and give the screwdriver a few good yanks. This is the kind of tool I've seen made up for pulling front seals out of 911 gearboxes in-car.
Of course, pulling the nosecone is not a real big deal either. If the transmission is still in the car, place some support under the transmission, remove the ground strap nut and mount bolts (I've been indoctrinated to remove the four 8mm bolts, not the two 14mm nuts), let the drivetrain drop down a little, and remove the nuts on the nosecone. Of course, by this time you have drained all the gear oil. With the transmission in neutral, pull off the nosecone, taking care not to take out the intermediate plate and gear cluster with it. Be careful not to let the reverse/ 1st gear idler fall to the ground. Replace the seal and nosecone gasket, position the idler gear such that the undercut section of the spacer mates with the bearing housing (you'll see what I'm talking about), and slide it in. You may need to remove the access plate at the bottom of the nosecone to position and align the shift rod somewhere in this process.
I've performed this kind of operation with sideshift cars when I'm replacing a broken nosecone, so I'm a bit unfamiliar with the possible snags of a tailshifter. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. I replaced the speedo drive o-ring yesterday, so I'm hoping that most of the leaking will be stopped.
I think making the tool you describe sounds less invasive. There's a bit of seeping there, so I have time to order that seal.
thanks again!
-Rusty
I think making the tool you describe sounds less invasive. There's a bit of seeping there, so I have time to order that seal.
thanks again!
-Rusty
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