As I have my g/box popping out of 4th gear I'am lost for a reason as everything has been done externally,Tangerine bulkhead bush, x 2 shift rod uni-joints and double oilite console bushes.
Shifts all other gears fine and down changes fine however have issues with a new cable that has needed constant adjustment since fitted it after a short time so thinking now the tube is moving in the tunnel due to the mounts breaking further.
Thanks to a fellow NZ member on here I have got the contact for the leading guy in my country that works on these transmissions but TBO don't want to send it to him for assessment if its not an internal problem and can least afford to do that.
Will add that I have new clutch with clutch throw out arm rebushed and new mounts but when last checked I noticed the tube was moving a little with pedal depressed.
TIA.

The clutch tube should not move in the chassis at all. If it is moving, fix it. The clutch will never hold adjustment until you get the tube anchored.

Clay

Thanks Clay,well think I was paraniod or hopeful that was the right answer but not so,removed the shifter and the movement isn't anything ,bugger it.
I have never trusted the new Cofle cable (done 510 miles ) so dug out the old one that came with the car which I believe is original and in great condition and will fit that just to see ...nothing to lose as far as I can see.
End of the day don't think I have an easy $$ fix ,thinking the PO wasn't that honest about the gearbox considering very low mileage .

Cleaning up the shifter while it is out and found it stiff to move and fully caked up with very old grease ,funny just cleaning it out made it move better sans grease.
Checked the 1st/reverse lock out plate and no wear,nylon intermediate bush is fine also,all lubed up and big differance .
Certainly not going to fix my issue but needed doing anyway,plan to change cable soon.

Be sure to check the tube in the middle. You’ll need to remove the rear tunnel cover to see it. I had the center brace come loose on my ‘70. The front wasn’t moving and it was secure at the firewall. Threw me for a loop at first.

I found this from “06 here


Link:

Tunnel vision

Click to view attachment

Tunnel internals.

This donor tunnel that I obtained had broken loose at the front (2 J hooks in place from what ever car this came from) and the stamped steel bracket that the tube mounts to behind the shifter is also torn and fatigued from the front having gone too long before being fixed.

Per Clay's comment, the tube needs to be rigid all the way, front to back and it will deflect from side loads. Without a rigid tube, you will have lost travel at the pressure plate and constant adjustment issues.

Click to view attachment

Thanks for the replies,good point on checking the rear as I haven't done that,will the tube peel away from the bulkhead if this one is broken ?

If it tore away from the firewall it will be obvious when viewing from the engine compartment or the rear access cover. You'd probably have some scoring on the firewall and/or the cable would be off to one side. IIRC. To determine if it was the middle brace I stuck a screwdriver through the bolt hole on psg side seatbelt attach point and had someone step on the clutch pedal. I'd forget my arse if it wasn't attached. If you run into a problem checking there LMK and I'll pull the carpet back to check how I did the repair. It's been a couple of years and it's on the lift.

Thanks,that one looks a real shit to fix,seems it rips in half in the middle as per pic from superhawk ...could be my issue and will know when I dig in which I'am doing now.

Let me look at mine so that I can remember how to do it. I didn't need to cut it open to weld either. I used a threaded "J" hook IIRC. At the time I had a stage 2 clutch with the V8 and it was just too much for that middle brace. Now that I'm changing over to hydraulic with the Subaru conversion it will become a conduit for the AN-3 hose. Can you wait until Monday. We're having a heat wave and I can't go in the garage until then.

Thanks,well finally got round to doing a careful check,I removed the shifter and can just reach the tube retainer and its not broken or moving @ that point,however about 4 inches or so to the rear there is a small amount of movement ,thinking now it could be the rear mounting point ? this is the bracket shown in superhawks pic near the tape marked throttle.
More thoughts and comments welcome TIA.

That's it. I'll make a note to look at how I did mine tomorrow and snap a pic. Hopefully I'll look at my calendar tomorrow.

If that stamped steel bracket is torn from fatigue, I could envision opposing J-hooks helping keep it stabilized.

Alternatively you might be able to pump 2 part epoxy (type with caulk gun applicator & a mixing nozzle) back to that area via vinyl tubing and getting a big blob to cover the braket and the clutch tube.

Probably other possiblities too.

Shortly after Betty and I started dating (in 1985!), the clutch tube came loose in the tunnel of her car. There was no internet, no 914World, and the only reference we had was the AutoAtlanta catalog. Plus we had no money, no welding skills and the only welder we had access to was a ARC stick welder. So we went to the hardware store and bought a U-Bolt. We took out the shifter, drilled holes on either side of the clutch tube and put in the U-Bolt. That anchored the clutch tube and fixed the issue.

The U-bolt was still there when I got hit. I never took time enough to fix it. We were going on the premise of "It's not broken, so why fix it?" on that particular item. But it is getting fixed while the car is in the body shop.

Not saying it is the right way to fix it, but ..... Sometimes simple works.

Clay

Thanks,thinking maybe I have a full or partial breakage of the rear support,will be pulling the cable today and can inspect the bulkhead area,may amount to little but I can easily beef it up as far back as I can go to the rear.
More progress ,did all checks and can find no breakage of the tube mounts or in the bulkhead passing, checked seat belt bolts and no conflict with the shifter rod or movement of the tube on the RH side.
I fitted the original Porsche cable and noted the Cofle replacement had no nylon liner in the conduit from bulkhead to clutch roller mount .
Cheap cable equals sh#t cable I guess ?,maybe why the genuine cable is 4+ times more expensive,easy to see where this is heading,clutch is much lighter,easier to adjust and much smoother,really didn't feel great before.
Was pissed off to see the wear on the clevis pin after I welded the worn lever arm and redrilled,another aftermarket item part which is too softer steel for this application.
More to follow as I need to short rear shifter rod as I found out one uni-joint is not locking tight on the rod....can see some "light @ the end of the tunnel" ,maybe a fix or not but atleast I would have cover all bases.