at around 1000RPM....complete stall. Is this a fixble something or something i'llhave to live with unless i go with dual carbs

This should be fixable . I ran a single carbed 1.7 for 7 years and it never missed a lick. Only thing I had to do was rig up a heat box int the winter to keep my carb from icing up. Just dont let your car sit for 13 years and then expect to get it going in a few weeks without buying new parts

what do you mean, "when cold" ??

if you mean, the car struggles to stay alive when it's just been started on cold morning.... then yeah, it's common. or maybe your carb needs to be tuned. you have a sub-optimal setup, so you may have to live with some of this stuff, or you could go digging and learn about it in the meanwhile and maybe even fix it, or you could fix your FI. dual carbs aren't the answer, though.

try changing jets. that one PITA when you live in cold areas and have carbs...thats why i switched back to FI. one jet when its cold and anther when its hot.

by cold i mean engine is not operating temp....when i go from stop to going, sometimes at take-off, the carb pops (backfires) and everything goes to a halt....sometimes i can get it going again and sometimes i have to re-start the engine. all is well when that happens and it only happens when cold....otherwise i have a small flatspot at that RPM

that sounds like a tuning issue.

long prong is bd1308?


anyway, get a book on carbs and read read read... you can lick it.

yeah sorry....i shoudl put that in my sig....


i'll get a book....it's a weber/holley so i'll get a book on that.

it's not a knob that gets turned out 1/4 turn would be too easy.

in other news:

'95 Jag (powered by Lucas) goes into shop for random check engine lights concerning teh O2 sensor...and there is a first start stall condition.....
traced back to wiring

QUOTE (Long Prong @ Jul 11 2005, 07:21 PM)

by cold i mean engine is not operating temp....when i go from stop to going, sometimes at take-off, the carb pops (backfires) and everything goes to a halt....sometimes i can get it going again and sometimes i have to re-start the engine. all is well when that happens and it only happens when cold....otherwise i have a small flatspot at that RPM

sounds like it's going lean....can you adjust the accel pump??

the single carb will never be perfect, you'll have to live with some of the issues......

QUOTE (Mueller @ Jul 11 2005, 08:37 PM)

QUOTE (Long Prong @ Jul 11 2005, 07:21 PM) by cold i mean engine is not operating temp....when i go from stop to going, sometimes at take-off, the carb pops (backfires) and everything goes to a halt....sometimes i can get it going again and sometimes i have to re-start the engine. all is well when that happens and it only happens when cold....otherwise i have a small flatspot at that RPM sounds like it's going lean....can you adjust the accel pump?? the single carb will never be perfect, you'll have to live with some of the issues......

yeah thats what I figured but what I didnt understand is why it was doing that when only when the engine is cold and not all of the time......

time to buy the book....it's progressive....i got nothing

the reason it wasnt on the dyno is that the engine had some temporary piston slap issues...with the rings not seating and he didnt want to put more $$$ tuning a imperfect engine

i thrashed it, rings seated and piston slap gone....

dont think you can adjust the accel pump on this carb but the mixture screw is in the middle on the back of the carb.1/4 turn might work

loose=rich
tight=lean


?

left is rich
right is lean

okay....this affects all during the rpm range and warm/cold....

any downside from turning 1/4 to rich side....?

too rich and you'll foul plugs and risk washing the oil off your cylinders causing massive engine damage.........

also, becareful when you adjust the timing on your motor...now that you have a "wet" intake manifold instead of a dry FI manifold, the chances of the fuel igniting and blowing back up thru the carb is increased....

singed eyebrows will put a damper on the day...


1/4 turn too much then?

liek 1/8 turn better....?

why when it's cold?!? because it's a carb... the manifolds have to get warmed up to get the fuel to atomize... it can be made better, but it will never be like FI...

britt, if you go to dual carbs you will have the same problem. carbed engines are not like fi in the cold start aspect. let it warm up for a minute or 2. when cold you will have to feather the throttle upon start up. does the carb have the provision for the electric choke?

k

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Jul 12 2005, 07:41 AM)

britt, if you go to dual carbs you will have the same problem. carbed engines are not like fi in the cold start aspect. let it warm up for a minute or 2. when cold you will have to feather the throttle upon start up. does the carb have the provision for the electric choke? k

my problem is well after 2 minutes of running. We're talking about 10 minutes into travel. Yesterday it happened fully warmed up.

turned screw out 1.8 turn...problem soved

I *THINK* it does have electric choke....

It is pretty easy to tell if you have the electric choke.
You should see a plastic housing (maybe its metal, can't remember)
on the side of the carb. It will have a wire going to it.
If you don't have any electric wires going to your carb, you don't
have it.

To use it, you push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and
slowly let it up. This will engage the choke. It does help quite a bit
during warm up.

--- bill

I had the same problem with a 32/36 DFAV. When you gave it some gas coming off idle, it wouldn't just stumble, but would fall on its face as it was leaning out. When I rebuilt it, the accelerator pump diaphram was pretty fried, and the pick up for the accelerator pump jet (located at the bottom of the float bowl) was crusted up something good. A good cleaning and new diaphram and no problems whatsoever.

cool....so Bill if i start the car without flooring it then letting it up the choke won't kick on?

sounds neat, but loud way to go to school at 8AM...

You floor the pedal once and let up BEFORE you start the car.
This engages the choke.
Then you drive as normal and try not to blip the pedal which will
disengage the choke.

The choke temporarily enriches the mixture during warmup.
There is a shaft or plate inside that the choke unit grabs onto
during warmup. Inside the choke is an electric component that heats
up after a few minutes and lets go and thus disengages the choke.
Flooring it slowly engages it and blipping it disengages it.

I'd still recommend buying a book. The CB book is mainly for IDFs
but does have a quite a bit of Carb theory and tuning information.
It does have some diagrams for the pregressive and 32/36.
Well worth the $10.

--- bill