So I've got the car running pretty well, but as I was driving I noticed some front end vibration on the passenger side. Upon pulling the wheel, I noticed the hub is not turning completely freely....the pads seem to be rubbing.

I pulled the retaining pins, spreader springs, and removed the pads and piston retaining plate. Upon doing that, the hub has no slop/play, and the wheel spins very well. So, while I realize that I should ultimately pull the calipers and send them to PMB for a full rebuild(and probably will soon), right now I would like to only replace the pads, spreader springs, and piston retaining plate. While I'm sorting the car, I'm going on very short runs on very isolated roads.

Anyhow .....my QUESTION is related to the step in both the Pelican Article and Haynes Manual where it states "Now, using a plastic handle, or a piece of wood, push both the front pistons back into their housings. " This is step before re-installing the pads. I'll take a closer look today, but yesterday I didn't notice where the piston is protruding out very much into the space between the caliper and the disc....if this make sense. So, in this tight space, with the caliper still on the car, is there a specific tool/method of pushing the piston back in? Any techniques or tools to accomplish this task would be appreciated. Thanks!

C-clamp is often used. Make use you don’t overflow the brake reservoir.

I use a tool like this after the caliper is off
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perform...mp;gclsrc=aw.ds

if you have no good space while the caliper is still bolted on the car, you can also take the bolts off and leave the brakeline attached, but the caliper can come off . that will give more space to manouvre and work. Do not let it hang on the brakeline, support it. You can bolt it back after that easily, no extra bleeding after this.

Thanks for the tips....I think pulling the caliper off sounds like the way to go. That tool looks like it could be perfect for the job. Now I just have to get the new parts. Thanks!

Let us know how it works out .

to avoid having to pull the caliper:

Scissor style:

https://www.amazon.com/Laser-5252-Disc-Brak...r/dp/B006IRIP9M

Ratchet style

https://www.amazon.com/caliper-TUTOOLS-pist...tive&sr=1-3

I used to have a pair of the scissor style and they worked well. Somewhere in life, they got lost. I'll have to replace them when I put my car back together as they were much easier than C-clamps in my opinion.

Can't vouch for the ratchet style but work probably work too.

Ratchet style is the cat's meow.

In have this one. Works well. Cheap tool, and since I do not use it daily, the quality is good enough.
Click to view attachment

Thanks for the advice and the link! I just ordered a pair of the scissor style....those look like just the ticket.

Just to add a quick update to this thread. I purchased a scissor style spreader, and it worked well. Unfortunately, the brakes are not functioning well, ...one of the pistons is completely seized and another is close.

....So....I took them off and am sending them to PMB today for a rebuild. Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

I'm also going to replace all the lines and master cylinder. I took off the steering rack cover and found that the 45 year old master cylinder probably isn't helping things.

Click to view attachment


....which begs the question ....why not replace the pedal cluster while your taking out the master cylinder...... frigg'n slippery slope....

I would Ck the peddle cluster and if you want a nice set up call Mr Bruce Stone

Bob B