Hello, will I need to take the steering wheel off to get the odemeter guage out for repair?

No you can probably wiggle it out but it is a lot easier to remove the wheel. Plus its only 1 big nut.

No, it's not necessary. The gauge should be able to pop through easily. Unplugging some of the wires behind can be somewhat challenging for larger hands

you will also need to free the odometer reset cable

Is there a good how to repair on this?
Looks like I need to do this job as well this winter.

IIRC it's a nylon worm screw that has worn out, anyone making the repair part(s)?

Mark, I followed this "how to" a few years back. It held for a while then the nylon gear let go again. I believe we can get new gears at Pelican.

How to:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/1...eter_Repair.htm

Gear chart:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images...al/odogears.htm

Hi again, I have taken it out without removing the steering wheel, I had the wheel off once to put the stock one back on did not really want to take it off again. I disconnected all the parts BUT had one problem I did not see where this long cable went into when I pulled it out see pictures. Can anyone offer assistance on where it plugs back into?Click to view attachment

That is the trip meter re-set cable for resetting the trip meter to zero. It goes into a hole in the bottom of the dashboard. It’s missing the re-set knob, washer and retaining nut.

Oh oops, YES I think I know exactly where it goes now, will go out and check. THANK YOU for that bit of information.

Don't attempt to reset the odometer when you're moving - it'll strip the plastic gear...

OK, so is that why the odometers don't work any longer because maybe the former owner tried to reset the odometer while moving along on the road? If I am not mistaken there may be multiple problems with these old odometers or do you think most are caused from the problem you brought up?

It's likely the pot metal gear on the shaft inside. It's a common problem but the fix is not difficult. Check out the Pelican article as linked above. I followed the guide exactly and the repair was straightforward.

Yes I have heard that but posssibly the part where the square fits into it might need replacing too ? I think Pelican guarantees it after they fix it so maybe I will go there. If I crimp the pot metal gear it might stop again after 6 months because I have less experience.

Unnecessary to remove steering wheel. But would aid. You should have enough clearance to pull it out a few inches and then unscrew the speedometer cable. It’s also wise to diagram the electrical terminals.

Bob most likely the damage was caused by a trip meter reset while moving,replacement gears can be sourced on ebay but that was a while back if I remember they were like $20 +,however if you don't do the work yourself to replace it it can be a reasonably expensive repair if you farm the work out.
Considering the cost of a good used unit replacement may be a better option but you may want to have it read the correct current mileage of your car.
What is actually wrong with your gauge?,have you checked the cable as it could be broken internally,you can test that by carefully turning the square drive CCW @ the gauge end and if you feel resistance it is fine,if it continues to turn it is broken.
Try that and report back cheers.

HELLO, thanks for your input, I turned the reset and it works fine back to zeros the upper dial is stuck on 99502 miles total on car. The cable going into the MPH must be good as the speedometer was working fine. I am assuming that the pot metal gear is loose inside, that is what many say goes wrong with these.

I also followed that Pelican article. Mine was the pot metal gear which was easily crimped back to a tight fit. After being happy with my repair, a member here told me the crimp could loosen after a bit and it is a good idea to reinforce with a dab of epoxy. I didn't do that but did not crimp my bezel back completely on the gauge so it would be easier to get back in if needed. The repair itself is quite simple though.

Also, on removing the wheel to get the gauge out. As you already learned, it isn't necessary EXCEPT if you have spent hours cleaning and repainting gauge bezels and the cluster frame. Ask me how I know

Mine just failed at 98500-ish, I know for sure I didn't hit the trip reset as it's cable has been seized the whole 20 years I've owned my teen.

Not to mention the top of your steering column housing, toss a rag over it first.

Hello, yes I did put a rag down first, so do YOU advise sending them out or fixing these ourselves ?

I like DIY stuff AND am a CSOB so I'd say $50 would be about my break even point. I doubt any pros would do it at that price though. The most difficult part is getting the gauge bezel off. You just have to go slow and be patient is all. The number wheels are a bit fiddly but that article does a good job of walking you through it. My OD had been broken long enough that it didn't reflect the miles on the car so I decided to zero it to get closer to the true mileage. That was really fiddly to get right but most people aren't going to be that insane. I also repainted the needle and inner bezel and cleaned the face well while I was there, and had a glass lens cut to replace the plastic. The OD repair probably took about an hour not counting the reset madness but all of the other stuff added up.

$50 bucks doesn't even cover the parts, or time.

Like I said, I like DIY and am a CSOB. But I should be clear. That $50 is only for getting the odo spinning again (in my case, no parts required - just a good squeeze on the pot metal gear.). Honestly, someone who has done a few of these should be able to do it in a half hour. For a first timer, an hour or two. A complete restoration is a whole different story.

Later units use plastic, and they break apart. Then you get to pull the shaft and spend a bunch of time getting it all aligned and looking correct. Don't forget the gear is not the same size as the old one and then you get to chuck it in the lathe and machine it to the proper specs.

I reclocked my metric speedo to correct mileage and yes it is tricky but having done several mk2 Golf ones its made it easier,another VDO gauge that fails in the drive,funny never had to repair or had failure with the Motometer ones often used in those cars ?.
Click to view attachment
Being the "king of bezel" removal that's not an issue,I do however have the worst luck with tacho's as after doing full cosmetics on them and LED's they seem to fail shortly ofter
I still think Bob is better to buy a good used one and decides if he gets it reclocked to his car our just runs with a good used example with mileage close enough.
Cheers.