The wife and I were driving home today after lunch and was making a left turn when heard a loud pop and instantly no drive. Had power but it would not move. After jacking the car up, noticed the axle on the driver side came off, the bolts backed out. They didn't snap or strip, just backed out. I Uber home to get my truck and tools and was able tighten the bolts back up. However after pulling away, went to shift to 2nd and it grinded hard, shifted into 3rd OK, when to 4th and nothing, then tried 5th and nothing. So seems all I have is 1st, 3rd and Reverse.
Already PM Dr. Evil about a rebuild and possible and cost. Just a crap way to finish a good day. Just glad to get it home
On a positive note a guy stopped to see if we were OK and said he used to have a 914 that he loved (up until he crashed it)
Full Version: Possible trans rebuild
See my PM to you.
I’m betting your messed up shift rod when axle hit it. Almost nothing internal would connect 2/4/5. Check rod and components, and if all good, then only a roll pin snapped on the shift console would be possible (but weird). Your shifter alignment is most definitely out.
I’m betting your messed up shift rod when axle hit it. Almost nothing internal would connect 2/4/5. Check rod and components, and if all good, then only a roll pin snapped on the shift console would be possible (but weird). Your shifter alignment is most definitely out.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 4 2020, 09:57 PM) 
See my PM to you.
I’m betting your messed up shift rod when axle hit it. Almost nothing internal would connect 2/4/5. Check rod and components, and if all good, then only a roll pin snapped on the shift console would be possible (but weird). Your shifter alignment is most definitely out.
Thanks so much for the reply/advice. I will look into it further tomorrow when I can get the car up to in the air in the garage and not in the side of the road. Thanks again!!
And drill and safety wire the allen bolts so it doesn't happen again.
Replace the schnorr washers under the head of the bolts. Then reassemble the CV joint, using a new gasket and a torque wrench to install the bolts. The torque spec is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure the bolts are clean when going into the flange. No grease on the threads.
If you use new schnorr washers and gaskets every time you disassemble the CV joints, and torque them correctly, they will not back out like you experienced.
Safety wire is a good idea if you want to go to that trouble, but it is not necessary to keep the bolts from backing out.
If you use new schnorr washers and gaskets every time you disassemble the CV joints, and torque them correctly, they will not back out like you experienced.
Safety wire is a good idea if you want to go to that trouble, but it is not necessary to keep the bolts from backing out.
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Sep 5 2020, 10:29 AM)
Replace the schnorr washers under the head of the bolts. Then reassemble the CV joint, using a new gasket and a torque wrench to install the bolts. The torque spec is 31 ft/lbs. Make sure the bolts are clean when going into the flange. No grease on the threads.
If you use new schnorr washers and gaskets every time you disassemble the CV joints, and torque them correctly, they will not back out like you experienced.
Safety wire is a good idea if you want to go to that trouble, but it is not necessary to keep the bolts from backing out.
Thanks for the tip. Will get new ones on order
Worked on the car a bit today and hoping the experts out there can chime in as I have no idea what I am looking for/at.
I think I have 2 problems
1) While tightening up the CV joint to the trans, I noticed a big chuck missing. I think the pin hit it when it came off. I am assuming grease will just fling out of this?? If this does need to be replaced, do I need a new new cv joint or is it just a simple spacer or something?
2) The shift rod that runs under the car/into the trans seemed to have a lot of play in it. I removed the rectangle cover on the trans and a bunch of plastic shards came out. So clearly something exploded, likely a bushing.
Is there supposed to be a bushing where the rod goes into the trans? (Refer to where my finger is pointing in the below pic)
I think I have 2 problems
1) While tightening up the CV joint to the trans, I noticed a big chuck missing. I think the pin hit it when it came off. I am assuming grease will just fling out of this?? If this does need to be replaced, do I need a new new cv joint or is it just a simple spacer or something?
2) The shift rod that runs under the car/into the trans seemed to have a lot of play in it. I removed the rectangle cover on the trans and a bunch of plastic shards came out. So clearly something exploded, likely a bushing.
Is there supposed to be a bushing where the rod goes into the trans? (Refer to where my finger is pointing in the below pic)
that bushing is shot. remove the cone screw completely and pull off the coupling. The plastic sleve may also be broken. It looks like it is sticking out too much.
Check forward to the firewall and the u joint. Likely need replaced bushings there as well. The bushing you’re see in your third pic is likely shattered. Easy and cheap replace. Still don’t think tranz needs a rebuild. The CV joint is likely shot. See if the bitch communicates to where the grease is in the joint, but most likely.
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 5 2020, 03:54 PM)
Check forward to the firewall and the u joint. Likely need replaced bushings there as well. The bushing you’re see in your third pic is likely shattered. Easy and cheap replace. Still don’t think tranz needs a rebuild. The CV joint is likely shot. See if the bitch communicates to where the grease is in the joint, but most likely.
Where the rod comes out of the firewall, that bushing was pulled out of the firewall. I pushed it back into place but it can likely use a new one. So is this the kit I would get with the firewall bushing, the one that goes into the trans and the ball cup?? http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-3-piece...N-BMIS4200.html
Regarding the CV joint, sorry to be very ignorant but trying to learn. Is this something that can be rebuild with a kit or do I have to buy a whole new axle?
QUOTE(R Dub @ Sep 5 2020, 03:02 PM)
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 5 2020, 03:54 PM)
Check forward to the firewall and the u joint. Likely need replaced bushings there as well. The bushing you’re see in your third pic is likely shattered. Easy and cheap replace. Still don’t think tranz needs a rebuild. The CV joint is likely shot. See if the bitch communicates to where the grease is in the joint, but most likely.
Where the rod comes out of the firewall, that bushing was pulled out of the firewall. I pushed it back into place but it can likely use a new one. So is this the kit I would get with the firewall bushing, the one that goes into the trans and the ball cup?? http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-3-piece...N-BMIS4200.html
Regarding the CV joint, sorry to be very ignorant but trying to learn. Is this something that can be rebuild with a kit or do I have to buy a whole new axle?
You can get a replacement joint from PMB for $113. Get the pre-machined one. You will need to remove the axle in order to work on it. I would get all new schorr washers and bolts as well. The bolts require a special driver. Do not use a standard torx driver.
https://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/9926705.htm
QUOTE(rbzymek @ Sep 5 2020, 05:23 PM)
QUOTE(R Dub @ Sep 5 2020, 03:02 PM)
QUOTE(Dr Evil @ Sep 5 2020, 03:54 PM)
Check forward to the firewall and the u joint. Likely need replaced bushings there as well. The bushing you’re see in your third pic is likely shattered. Easy and cheap replace. Still don’t think tranz needs a rebuild. The CV joint is likely shot. See if the bitch communicates to where the grease is in the joint, but most likely.
Where the rod comes out of the firewall, that bushing was pulled out of the firewall. I pushed it back into place but it can likely use a new one. So is this the kit I would get with the firewall bushing, the one that goes into the trans and the ball cup?? http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-3-piece...N-BMIS4200.html
Regarding the CV joint, sorry to be very ignorant but trying to learn. Is this something that can be rebuild with a kit or do I have to buy a whole new axle?
You can get a replacement joint from PMB for $113. Get the pre-machined one. You will need to remove the axle in order to work on it. I would get all new schorr washers and bolts as well. The bolts require a special driver. Do not use a standard torx driver.
https://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/9926705.htm
Agree, just call Eric Shea at PMB and he will let you know what you need to do. Best to buy a new CV joint, not while axle.
Fix the whole set of bushings and you’ll be good!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.