Installing wheel studs into my 5 lug conversion hubs. It looks like torque values are 94 ft/lb? Could somebody confirm? I am using red Loctite as well so imagine as long as Loctite is on there and stud is snug, I should be ok.

94 lbs is fine, DON'T use locktite, use a torque wrench. Re-check after your first drive.
If your rims have been painted the paint in the nut seats can be an issue, I torque all the nuts then loosen them off and blow out any paint chips with air, re-torque and check them several times over the next few drives.

Edit, re-read your post, studs into hubs, yes red locktite, they don't need any torque IIRC. 94lbs is for the nut (rim to hub) torque.

I thought Eric recommended red lock tight as well but I'm not 100%. Call PMB and ask.

Another related question - what is the brains trust view on e.g. copper slip on studs/nuts? I'll have to have a good look later to see if Eric used Red Locktite when he installed the studs in my 5 bolt hubs

By copper slip I'm guessing anti-sieze? I use some but people seem so have different views.

I have been using copper or nickel slip(Anti-Seize) on every lug bolt on every VAG car I have had over the last 50 years. Ten VAG cars. Never had one come off.

I use this stuff on every bolt/nut on all parts that come in contact with water or bolt into aluminum. I haven't had a piece fall off my car yet. I do track days with my Audi CQ and never had a problem.

I use it on ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar ends, etc. I use it between the hub and the rotors. Let's just say I use a lot of it.

Greg W.

I use copper anti-seize on almost everything, including lug bolts.

I do not recall using it on the studs when I turned them in, but I probably did because I use it on everything.

Zach