I am in the last stages of rebuilding my original 2.0. Just seem to be having some trouble finalizing the crank/flywheel play

When I put the flywheel on without any shims I have 1.089mm. When I add the 3 shims (.25 .35 .35 ) I have no play at all. I should in theory have .13

I've tried 3 times and same result. Any ideas?

I just went through this, seal replacement.

I measured when the FW was off (lots of play - lash) and then when ALL of the original parts were reassembled there was no lash. I was concerned until I asked about this with people within these pages and was told not to be concerned. The car has never run better and there are no longer oil puddles under the car.

Shims that are cupped from wear will cause this. They take up more real estate than flat shims, across the shim.
Also, if you use oil between the shims that will also take up (reduce) clearance.
I set end play with all parts dry of oil, then once I get a repeatable end play figure with all shims installed, I remove them, lube everything, install the rear seal, and install the flywheel.
It is common for some 914 flywheels to contact the rear seal.When this happens you have no end play.

I put in two random shims then do the math/measurement. Like Jake said dry and double check before lube and seal.
Also make sure to push/pull the crank all the way in/out, but no screwdrivers, you can actually bend (flex) a flywheel a good .020" throwing off your calculation by prying with a screwdriver.

Thanks all

This is so critical.. Cam doing it right now to confirm what I had static before assembly is maintained. I save this for last..I'm doing the end play on the 2563cc T4 right now, then its time to ring the dyno bell with a 200HP first run :-)

Looks Awesome Jake!

And what you said worked....I cleaned all the grease off all the surfaces....and I now have enough room to mix up the spacers and be left with about .10mm

Yes, every time.. The oil is always a killer
Happy to have helped.