Hi guys

I sold my previous track car and decided to buy a 914.

Key features that sold me on the 914
-old
-light
-rwd
-mid engine

My previous track car was a riot and difficult to class in different organizations. I bought the 914 because it will be easier to class due to the "simplicity" of the build. This will be primarily a track car however it will be street legal with creature comforts.


I am located in WNY, so old classics are scarce and the ones that did survive are on the verge in splitting in half or fully restored. Since I am an older college student, finding one in decent shape will be hard.

I found this guy in California and had it shipped to me.

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While the pics looked great, I totally overpaid and it was a rusty bucket with a maco paint job. I bought this from Beverly hills car club and sales guy told me there was no rust and it was a solid car. What a load of of bs... It was also my fault for being naïve and putting faith in humanity. Next time ill go 3rd party and look at it person. Lesson learned. Moving on...

First order of business was to replace all the rust and fab a roll bar.

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test fit with seat, also the top also fits.

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Sorry to hear about the bad sales experience. That said, looks like that didn't hold you back from moving on!

What did it start as? Looks like a '74 (well maybe 73.5 in back based on number of bumperettes )

What are some goals of the build? Making it meet a particular group/class/sanctioning body? Keeping a 4 or making into a 6?

Engine Bay reinforced with 16 gauge.


Frunk?
Well thats toast too. I ended hacking that area and fabbed a front section and dimensions according to the book

Before


After I am reusing my old Radium Fuel Cell that contains a FIA bladder and an intern surge tank. I never experienced fuel starvation with setup. I use two walbro 255 lph pumps (redundancy) and a continuous lift pump.











I got creative and 3d printed some dimple dies!





testing...


It verkssss

If anyone is interested Id be happy sell some Dimple dies, They can be used on a press or impact gun.








I am using a cheap defroster from jeggs. I 3d printed my vents with a high HDT material so they wont melt.



I also added curved vanes to spread the flow





Easiest engine pull of my life.. Bye bye..





Here is where I might lose some followers. *ahem* I am still a college student working full time so I need a cheap powerful engine. Cheap and powerful may not belong in the same sentence but I just got to make due..

Hello K24



*flame suite on*

Why K24?
-Efi
-Parts everywhere
-Stock HP is low however with mods its known to achieve 240whp with decent torque
-500 hundred dollars on ebay..
-Track reliability (if not right) Meaning proper oil baffling and correct timing. Its very easy to screw up timing.

This will be controlled with a standalone ECU AEM Infinity from my previous car that I parted out.

I started to prep the engine, pulling crap I don't need.

Parts that I used for the swap

- S2000 intake manifold (in retrospect I should of used a RSX type-s intake manifold due its simplicity and correct orientation but to late now)

-S2000 JSP fab intake manifold adapter

-Track tuff coolant adapter

- Rsx Type-s oil pan with two oil baffles to prevent oil starvation

- 80mm throttle body ebay special, to my surprise its quality

- Cheap ebay water coolant adapter that mounts to the head

- I went with Fuel Injector Clinic injectors that are 1000cc (why so large? I may go turbo later, also on the track I will be using e85 for cooler temps)

- KEP adapter to 986 trans 5 speed ( I chose the trans that was closest geared towards the k24 and its cheap)

I inspected the engine and everything looked clean.

That the secondary baffle that prevents oil sloshing up the timing chain cover.





Old IAT sensor location. Bad Idea since it gets heat soaked. So I 3d printed a solution.



Don't worry I am using high temp material CF-PC



KEP Adapter



It fits it ships




Looks like it will fit




And its in








I started to Fab the coolant pipes. I am not an expert in tig welding aluminum.



I didnt want to route the coolant lines underneath since the car is going to be low. Best solution is through the cabin.



I 3d printed mounts that I made that holds coolant lines and fuel lines on top. Its a modular system that I came up with.



I also 3dprinted a shift knob since Porsche knobs are so expensive... I mean its just a knob....





I disliked the turn signals and mine were junk.

here's my solution

Turn Signal buckets with two day light running lights and one turn signal led. If there is interest for this I would be happy to 3d print some for the masses.






This is quiet a lengthy post Ill update later.

Well you live an learn. Majority is my fault could of been avoided.

Its a 74

Strictly a streetable time trial build. I've been tracking with NASAMA for 4 years but recently moved to WNY. So I plan on doing a mixture of NASA NE MA TT events. I am planning on TT4. I think the car can do a 2:07 at watkins on 100tw tires.I am also looking into SCCA events near me. For fun track days I usually do anything on motorsports reg. I am planning on being a nasa instructor too.

Ditching the flat 4 for a K24. Would love to do a EFI 6 but that's just way above my budget.

Nice work so far! How long have you been working on it?

Thanks!
I got the car in February, I was hoping to be done this month but school got in the way.

Does anyone have any recommendations on optimal track ride height?

Great work. Curious if the Le Man 914 required all these structural enhancements? I guess if your changing engines to a non VW/Porsche setup, it's necessary.

https://image-resizer-for-windows.en.lo4d.com/windows

It depends on a few factors. If you're relocating suspension pickup points, I like LOW for a track only car. I run mine 2 - 2.5" ground clearance in the front and about 3.5" in rear to give a little rake. That would put the suspension outside its normal range of motion unless you raise the front strut spindles. Also ideally raise the rear trailing arm mounts. You have to run pretty stiff springs to run that low too. I'm at 500 front and 350 rear currently and am seeing some minor scraping on the front splitter, so may up the rates a little more.

I'm pretty extreme though. Most people run higher ride height.

i like those front turn signal buckets, any shots of them on? i may be interested

Please give us some details on the transaxle, clutch, flywheel and adapter package when you get a chance! Looks like you are running a boxster 5 speed? Looks great !

The mating process was actually pretty simple

986 2.7L 5 Speed trans
KEP adapter plate w/ KEP flywheel uses the stock k24 starter
OEM 986 clutch sachs
The mounts I made my self.
I used Renegade for the stubs and CVs

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Here is the model I designed. I made this work my purposes but it can easily edited to relocate one led to the top so that way the oem lenses diffuses the light. This is also made to work with oem gasket. It secures itself with the same bolt with a washer and nut on the back.

The two angled platforms are for the daytime running leds. I can do with one single led or none.

Wow.
Impressive.
Look forward to seeing it all together.
The K24 is a solid power plant. Good choice. Much more innovative than the typical Sub swap.

K24, cool (the details totally got lost in the midst of those HUGE photos, I blew right past all that...you should resize and replace those pics.)

We're getting 295whp with the K24 in our Super Touring car ('08 Civic Si), all motor. What's the details on your build? We're using a sequential Quaife gearbox but it's the transverse-mounted FWD version so wont work in yours (unless you're transverse-mounting?) It's a total hoot to drive... - Greg

Oh I like this guy!!!!

Great fab work!


Sad to see you got suckered by Beverley Hills... They sell nothing but junk at top dollar.



Love the K24 conversion! Keep up the good work!

Ha! Thanks!

Suspension and Brakes


FRONT
While this thing will be light. I need pretty good brakes. I decided to reuse my big brake kit from my previous 2002 and retro fit the stoptech bbk to the porsche 911 strut. I will be also using MK60 4-way ABS with Motorsport programming.

The caliper is a c43 Stoptech unit that doesn't use any seals and its cnc'd. Weighs 4.2 pounds and one bolt pad changes. The rotor size 309mm x 32mm.

OEM S2000 Top Hat



I started by modifying the top hats to fit the 911 mounting holes.



Test Fit








Building the adapter



Took me 3 different versions to 3d print before I sent my file to get cnc'd








EnGiNeErInG yo







Fin

REAR
The rear will be using PFC 97 pads and Boxster rear calipers with vented rear rotors.



I forgot to take a pic of the rear setup but its using RSR Boxster adapters


SUSPENSION

I decided to go with RSR Re-Valved Bilstein struts 220/100D for the front and Bilstein Rear coil overs. I started with 250 spring rates front and rear. I also picked RSR front sway bar.

TIRES

After measuring I settled on maxilite reps 16x7 wrapped in 205s Nankang Ar-1 100TW



SEATS

Sabelt X-Pad halo

I wanted something comfy and safe. This fit the bill nicely.

Interior

I 3dprinted more do-dads

I haven't tracked at all this year and its killing me. So I decided to rush it and put everything together for NASA event at Summit Point.

I got an alignment locally

My specs are

Front
0 Toe
-3.7 Camber
6 Caster

Rear
1/16 Toe in
-1 Camber









I drove the car on a base map 400 miles to my buddies at Ptuning in Manassas Virginia to get tuned.

Dyno Pull after being tuned on 93. It ended up making 220 hp more than I expected.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptXrJo9JJHA





NASAMA Summit Point

Well I did not have a great time at the track unfortunately. The first two sessions was me feeling the car. The car felt very nervous...

However I discovered My front bar was loose. After adjusting my tire pressures and dropping them to 24 psi cold and tightening my front bar to full stiff. The difference was night and day! I was able to really eat up some cars in DE3 various e90s and 911s. The power to weight combo was awesome. The back straight I managed 133mph with still some room to go. However I haven't braked that hard yet so I eased off. I managed a 1:26:2 in my 3rd session. I was really stoked to get it down to the teens. This car has so much potential! I was able to take many different lines that threw people off.

After 6 hard laps I started hearing a noise... I pitted in and it sounded like rod knock...

I dropped the pan... and my weekend was done







The 2nd rod bearing decided to let go.... After inspecting the other bearings. This engine was definitely neglected.. The oil also came out pitch black... with only 400 miles.. Granted... This engine was from ebay.... Its always a gamble.

I managed to borrow my friends car dolly, and towed it to my parents house in VA. I return my friends stuff and used points to fly back home to Buffalo. I was pretty bumed about it.. I was hoping it would last quite a while before letting go. These engines are pretty stout/reliable. I really should of inspected the bearings before putting the motor in.

Moving forward, I really did not want this happening again so I ordered a 4piston built shortblock with increased compression ratio to 12:1. The Shortblock will have ACL race bearings and forged internals. Lead time is 7 weeks. Hopefully I can get it before 2020 ends.

Now I gotta figure out how to get my car back.. -_-

Shameless plug.. If you like what you see. Buy a sticker! https://www.trackd.us/shop

Excellent fab work!!! Definitely interested in the dimple dies! What CAD program are you using for your 3D printed parts? If interested, I could use some design help on a custom intake manifold for my 3.5L all aluminum Olds V8 that I will be twin turboing in my 72 914. I am currently fabbing an intake from 1/2" 6061 Aluminum plate and 1.5" X .120 wall aluminum tube for the individual runners to plenums over each valve cover. The plenums will each contain an air to water intercooler to keep the cold side turbo to plenum run super short. Also, I am building a custom aluminum oil pan with an oil sump with four flaps to help the oil in the sump under all situations. Would love to 3D print the valve covers as well!

I'm wondering if your failure was caused by oil starvation during cornering, I believe I read somewhere that the K20/24 is known to have this issue.

Perhaps a baffled sump (or even dry-sump if you have the budget) is in order?

Figured out the issue recently. While k24s do have documented failures similar, I was running an upgraded oil pump with two baffles. This combo is a proven setup for durability.

The issue was, fuel mixing with the oil. The car was running super rich before tuning. I drove 7 plus hours to get it tuned however I didn't change the oil before going on track. So its totally my fault but I was in a rush to get everything done in time. I didn't think of it becoming an issue. The give away was the how black and how broken down the oil was. Also the oil pan did smell like fuel. After opening up the block all cylinder walls and bearing have some sort of wear. The walls weren't scored but it did seem there was a lack of lubrication.

With that said. I am planning on going dry sump anyways so I won't have to worry about oil issues all together. This will also be a new built block so longevity is the name of the game for me. I am going with Dailey engineering dry sump setup. So far he has been very helpful in configuring a setup for me.

Shoot me an email, Info@trackd.us

I use Solidworks 2020. Ill be happy to help.

Yea the dimple dies work great so far and are made of polycarbonate. Ill be happy to sell you a set pretty cheap.