Ignition switch/turn signal switch questions

A week or so ago, after 2 years of waiting for deals on parts (engine, transaxle etc.), I finally started on the long list of tasks required to get the ol’ 914 project running.

So – hoping to start with something I’ve heard described as challenging/pain in the a$$, but “manageable”, I tried to fix the turn signal switch some PO had experimented upon . . .


Thought this was worth a chuckle . . .

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After 45 minutes of (mostly) precise deadblow hammer strikes, the wheel came off – probably for the first time since early ’73 . . .I smiled, as felt was “close” to completing my first hurdle . . . an uncharacteristically brazen thought that has not gone unpunished . . .


Of course, my usually exhaustive interweb research failed me . . .I didn’t want to pull on the switches any harder than I did, and then didn’t want to break the washer switch nipples trying to get the 47 year old tubes to slide off – so there it lies. A couple of our Teener colleagues had differing opinions regarding the washer tubes: one said “don’t pull or cut those tubes off!", the other said to carefully pry them off with long-reach hose grips, but “don’t break those plastic nipples!” – presumably meaning to imply,”while your 52 year old back and neck are folded upside down in that tiny 914, don’t screw it up!”


Thus I have a few questions for you:

1.) Should I try to just pull the switches out (pulling harder?) without removing the tubes and avoiding the risk of damage to the wiper switch? If so, (I can only get the frunk open if someone presses on it - and then, just barely . . .maybe once or twice more - 3rd item on the list), can I try to “push some tube slack” into the column? Or any other suggestions? Cut and replace with new tubes, or is there enough slack to re-connect if cut?

2.) The used switch I got on 914World doesn't have the plastic sliders and spring (red arrows below) - what do they do (it feels like it has detents without them)? Any tips on swapping these to the (untested) replacement (looks like a job for a jeweler)?

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3.) Can you please tell me how to test the ignition switch I just got from Pelican before I install it (and try to clean/disassemble the tumbler - 2nd item on the list)? Volt/ohm meter instructions?

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Sorry for the barrage . . .as always, your guidance and experience is deeply appreciated and priceless to me.



Marcus

to test the new switch, just pull the wiring plug underneatch the dash and plug the new switch to the ignition wire plug. then just use a nice size screw driver (as a key) to turn the ignition.

for the turn signal switch, just unplug the hose (for windshield water spray which I think is not working anymore by this time) and plugs underneath the dash remove those 4 screw driver bolts and you can pull out the assembly then you have the access to remove the ignition switch assembly.


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Thank you, I'll test.

Couldn't get those old hoses off though - would you cut them?

I will cut them since we don’t really use it anymore plus it needs spare tire to make it work.

Thank you for the advice.

Cut the hoses - unplug the two plugs - they just pull off - fully loosen the 4 slot head screws, put one hand behind each switch arm and while pulling, gently "walk" them back out. If you keep the screws in the slots after making sure they're out of the threads, you'll avoid one tab from falling out until you get it on a bench where you can complete the separation. That tab is a grounding connection.

When you're putting them back in, they should slide into the column easily and and screws should only snug up gently - they don't pull the switches into the column, they just hold it there. if you go too tight or they're binding, they won't operate correctly.

Thank you for that in-depth description!