Hello all!

Finally starting this build thread after taking a small hiatus due to the arrival of identical twin Nephews!

I'm currently working on a 1972 Porsche 914 that I bought from my Grandpa for $2000. Car was not running but was virtually rust-free besides a small amount of surface rust near the hell-hole. Car has about 80,000 original miles and was garage-kept under a car cover in California since 1991. I've decided to go on the journey of adding more power to the car and ultimately decided to use an LM4 engine mated to a Boxster S 6 speed transmission.

Build is going pretty great so far. I have the radiator all mounted up already as well as the condenser. I am now trying to work out the hydraulic clutch set-up before I move to working on the fuel tank and fuel system.

Anybody have any ideas or suggestions on how to mount the hydraulic clutch master cylinder?

I have made kits (mounting plates) to convert to a Hyd clutch but using the 901 trans.

Master cyl mounting is the same no matter what trans you have.

Believe I have a kit left over.

$47.00 shipped

DavidClick to view attachment

That is very tempting. If what I have planned doesn't work out, then you will most definitely be hearing from me!

I'm currently waiting for a custom bracket to finish printing on my 3D printer. In theory it should work, I just needed to what's the best way to connect the clutch pedal to the MC.

47$... that is a great deal.

You can make your own in a few minutes with a piece of 3/16" scrap plate steel. You'll need 10-14 ft of AN-3 hose, an AN-3 fe 90 and a double flare union to go from the AN3 90 to the MC. IIRC, its a M4 x AN3 flare union. Don't know what you'll need on the backside to adapt to the Audi trans slave cylinder. You need to replace the studs on the brake MC with some bolts that are at least 13mm longer. Ross Nellums also sells these with an additional brace on the plate for $50.

Some info on the upgrade...

The following list is the part numbers, description, and vendor price for the parts I sourced.
• Wilwood remote master cyl. ¾ bore, WIL-260-6089, Summit Racing $47.94
• -3 AN PTFE Hose, SUM-220981 @ 20 ft (may only need estimated 12ft) Summit Racing $40.49
• 7/16-20 to 5/16 hose barb fitting, 3207, Pegasus racing www.pegasusautoracing.com $24.99
• (2) 90 deg. -3 fitting, AER-FBM1120, Summit Racing $12.97 ea.
• -3 AN hose to female -3AN straight steel fitting, AER-FBM1120, Summit Racing $8.97
• 3/8-24 to -3AN Male adaptor WIL-220-3406, Summit Racing $2.99
• 5/16 rubber tubing from master cyl. to reservoir, Auto Zone $ ??
• Remote Reservoir WIL-260-7577, Summit Racing $59.94 (Mine leaked I sourced a replacement from an older Chevy S-10).

Hydraulic clutch installation guide
1. Secure car on lift or jack stands.
2. Remove 2 retaining nuts on brake m/c. Do not disconnect fluid lines.
3. Disconnect clutch and throttle linkage and remove pedal assy.
4. The 2 bolts securing the brake m/c need to be replaced with the longer supplied M8 bolts. They are spot welded in the pedal assy. A Dremel tool with a cut-off disk works well. After removal the new bolts will need to be spot welded in place. (They can be installed with out welding but will require 2 people to do so.)
5. With the pedal assy. out of the car you can mock up the plate by attaching the clutch m/c and bolting the plate to the pedal assy. I was able to reuse the original clevis by running a 5/16-24 tap to rethread the clevis.
6. Once the clevis is rethreaded (or replacement installed) attach to the m/c rod and adjust the free play. Also, note the clearance for the throttle fitting. (some installs have required minor grinding of the clevis for clearance).
7. Also adjust the brake pushrod out 3/16 to compensate for the added plate thickness.
8. Remove m/c plate and reinstall the pedal assy.
9. Under the car attach the clutch plate over the 2-brake m/c bolts without the clutch m/c attached. Reinstall the brake m/c and bolt in place.
10. A 1.5-inch hole saw can be inserted into the hole for the clutch m/c to correctly position the access hole. (Take care to keep the saw 90 deg to the clutch plate while drilling).
11. A hole for the brake tubing can be drilled as well ½ min. (use of a rubber grommet is recommended).
12. Install the 90 deg fitting onto the braided tubing. Do not install a fitting to the other end at this time. You will need to fish the tubing through the car, cut to length, and attach while under the rear. Before removing the old clutch cable attach a thin wire or string to the cable. This can then aid in pulling the new hose through.
13. After running the hose through the car attach the clutch m/c to the plate but do not attach the fitting to the m/c. yet. The reason being is that after running hose through car and cutting you should blow air through the line to remove any debris. After that you can attach to the m/c and tighten.
14. Route the braided tubing to prevent damage and cut to required length.
15. Attach fitting to hose and attach to slave.
16. Determine the location for mounting the fluid reservoir and route rubber tubing to m/c.
17. Fill and bleed system checking for any leaks.
18. Test brake and clutch for proper operation before driving.

David

Thank you so much David! This is perfect! I will work on finishing the MC this weekend and hopefully post some pictures of its success!!