Is it common practice to heat the little bolts holding the tin on the engiine in order to remove them. I have been soaking them with penetrating oil. Iask this is I don’t wanna get anything too hot and damage the engine case. Looking to see what others have done as I’ve already broken one I will have to tap it out just don’t wanna have to do more if I can help it

Not a job for penetrant ,heat the head of the screw and let it cool ,fit large screwdriver and hit downwards with a small hammer, no movement heat again ,if the head of the screw is chewed out use large vise-grips to undo.
You will never get the case to hot with a small micro butane torch,good luck.

I had one engine that was a PITA to get the tin screws off. I had good luck in that instance with a cheap manual impact driver. Something like this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-D...-2905/205674679

When you put them back in, anti-seize is your friend.

An impact screw driver can work wonders on difficult screws.

+1 on anti-seize, and replace them with something other than those cheese heads screws...

https://914rubber.com/engine-tin-stainless-...nd-washer-set-1

When I pulled my engine I removed all of the tins to have them powder coated. Many of the original screws required liberal use of the torch to remove. I recall the bernzomatic with MAPP gas was sufficient for most but, a few needed the acetylene torch. Did not break any.

I replaced all of the cheese head screws with stainless allen screws and also used anti-sieze. I think I picked up a bag of 100 on ebay or Amazon for cheap. I recall a small number being a different size but, the local True value had a good selection of metric, stainless allen screws.

Has anyone experienced galvanic corrosion when using Copper grease on steel studs in Aluminium. It is my understanding its something you should avoid.

Use milk of magnesia

Searching Milk of magnesia it has lots of uses on one being a laxative, I am guessing that this product is not what you are recommending to use on your car. I do get good results searching for Aluminium anti seize grease.
Thanks for the advice

MM . Coating, liberally, exhaust studs makes taking the nuts off a breeze next time. Repeat shots of penetrant. Be patient. If the screw head slots are shot, use vice grips and replace the screws.

I have a oxy/propane cutting torch, not as hot as oxy/acetylene, but perfect for cars. For me worth the bother of an oxygen tank and propane is way cheaper than acetylene.

@Mark Henry
Acetylene has gotten expensive since that plant explosion back in 2018 that has constricted supply

Do you still use the same regulator(s) and tips or did you need new regulators to run propane? Do tell. I don't use much acetylene but my tank is getting low.

Even Argon has gone way up in last couple years with inflation + new Hazmat fees my gas supplier puts on bottles.

I just went to a welding supply shop and told them I wanted to convert, dude had me the kit in a second. IIRC the tip, sort of an inner tip and a jet.
This is 25+ years ago, 10 or so years ago I had to replace just the tip... I think?... But the welder supply had the stuff in stock.

BTW I go through lots of oxygen, but I get several years out of a tank of propane.

@Mark Henry

Thank you.

Serious on that. I got the MOM tip from a Jake Raby post. It's all I use on spark plugs, exhaust studs, etc. Jake said they used it on the plugs for jet engines.

Back on topic. I too use a hand impact when I get a stubborn one. Most of the time I do OK with my largest Stahlwille metric screwdriver that has a hex shank at the top. I can lean on it pretty hard and get the torque with a wrench on the hex. FWIW, there's a difference between SAE and metric screw drivers

The 914 rubber ones are nice but I guess I prefer the OEM look. Call me a purist. You can get nice new ones at McMaster Car...

MoM must be an American thing.....I use Ceramic Grease instead of Copper Crease. After the jar of CopperGrease was empty, I switched to Ceramic Grease. so far , so good !