Hey there,
Could you help me confirm that the throttle body I purchased for my 73 2.0 is the correct one? Here is the number and stampings I got off the part:

VW

LUS

039.133.067

Thanks in advance!

The 73 has two side ports. 74-76 has one.

Hi Jeff,

Not sure what you mean by two side ports. Does the same part number come in both variations?

There are two small vacuum tubes off the side of tbe throttle body. The number cat on it is a casting number used for all throttle bodies.

How about you post a photo of what you have.

I dunno what you have. My parts book indicates PN 039.133.062B for a 74 2.0L, it’s not clear what is correct for a 1973 2.0L

I believe the PET/parts books may be wrong on this one. I have seen 3 different 2.0 throttle bodies. The early style both with and without the 2nd nipple for the vac advance canister and then the later 75-76 design with the secondary spring on the throttle plate. The PET only lists the one part (039.133.062B) however if I recall (need to double check my parts stash) all of them had the same casting number (039.133.067).

The "Correct" part for the 73 (early 73 at least) would be one that had no integrated return spring and had the 2nd nipple but they can be interchanged without issue.

Attached are the best pictures I have before it was installed. The car is running (123 dizzy) but the shop wants to make sure it's the proper throttle body.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Bump with some pictures.

I'm curious why they would ask as the distributor can be configured to work with either the single or dual port version.
That said, it looks like you have a later TB with just the vacuum retard port. You can configure the distributor setting to use the port to retard the vacuum at idle (how your stock setup was), or change the config on the distributor to not use it all. If going the latter route, you must plug the port off at the TB and make sure not to plug the port on the distributor.

Technically that's the 75-76 part that you have but that doesn't matter. Operationally they are all the same save for the added return spring.

The 123dizzy is fully electronic and therefore does not need the 2nd port. The shop can just cap the unused port on the TB. Where you port the 123dizzy to is going to depend on how you are setting it up/what map you select but if this is on a stock d-jet car you are most likely going to want to connect it to the port that produces vacuum at idle/throttle closed, you need the timing to retard under vacuum otherwise you will have a high idle.

Awesome responses.

914World comes through once again.

Thanks fellas!