Yesterday, I replaced most of my fuel lines in the engine bay of my 75 2.0 (i ran out of line so i have to do a couple more). while doing it, i cracked one of the hard plastic fuel lines (the main one, i think -- not the one that goes back to the tank -- but i'm not sure), so i took out the little copper (brass?) fitting from the plastic line, cut the line back as far as i could, inserted the little fitting, and clamped a fresh 7mm ID 12mm OD fuel hose onto it (which runs to the metal fuel rail above the passenger side injectors.

then, while redoing the line that goes from the metal fuel rail to the injector of cylinder 3, i broke one of the electrical wires from the fitting of that injector. so, long story short (i know this sounds verbose, but this really is the short of it), i had take apart and redo this this little electrical fitting. a bit of solder and a ton of frustration later, i had it done.

car starts right up, idles smooth, i check for leaks, there are none, great. go for a drive: my car keeps dying sporadically.

when i let of the gas now, the rpm's dip quite low (maybe 300 rpm) before returning to normal idle. sometimes, the engine dies when this happens. it is particularly exacerbated while turning. after it dies like this, it is very difficult to get it restarted (feels like vapor lock, even though the engine isn't that warm). it always starts eventually if the pedal is down while i crank. also, while trying to re-start the engine, the exhaust smells really rich, almost like gasoline. but one re-started, the car runs strong.



does anyone have any advice? i'll owe you a beer



nathan

Did you replace the lines under the front tank? Almost sounds like they are kinked.

no, but i did take out and exam my fuel pump and filter (75 fuel pump is up front. maybe i'll make sure nothing is kinked there.

could it just be air in the lines?

n

now it won't even start. it feels like the car is vapor locked or something. i think i can hear the fuel pump, but the car just cranks and cranks w/out starting.

anybody?

Sounds like your flooding. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump (it's the one in the rear on the engine relay board) Crank the car. If it starts, then runs out of gas. put the fuse back in and try it again. If it starts, then you have a full rich condition. I had a similar problem. Drove me nuts for a few months. Car died. pulled fuse. car started. reinstalled fuse. car ran(sometimes). one day I dropped a screw under the air cleaner and had to remove it to retrieve the screw. I discovered the air filter was just f...ing filthy! threw it in the trash can and the car started up and screamed!!!! got a new filter and its been fine ever since. Good luck.

Always go back to the basics first!
Check for good spark too.

Turn the key on and make SURE you hear the pump.

Did you knock a injector wire off when you changed the hoses?

Check the plug wires.

Retrace your work and see if you did anything else.

Let us know what you find.

I'll be waiting

Paul

yeah, i did knock off an injector wire when i changed one hose (#3 cylinder), but i swear i fixed it well. does it matter which wire goes to which prong on the fuel injector? it's AC current, right? so it shouldn't matter? in any case i've tried putting the wire plugs on either way.. and the car has run (quite well, i might add) as of this afternoon when i first checked my new hoses for leaks.

fuel pump is definitely alive when i turn the ignition.

i'll try pulling the fuse as vsg914 suggested. i don't know how the car could have started running rich -- it just had a tune up -- but you never know, this is a good suggestion. and i'll be sure to trace my work for the 914th time.

thanks for the great suggestions, gentlemen. i'll try it all out and get back with you. and then i'm going to have a beer.

nathan

I'm having one for you right now

I feel like a 9-1-4 operater...

"Hello, what is your emergency?"

"Well, I change my fuel lines and...."

"What year is the car?"

"FI or carbs?"

"Check fuses...?"

"Check fuel pump...?"

"Does it turn over?"

Paul

Continued from above ^

"do you have spark?"

"do you have a beer in your hand?"

"Houston- we have a problem"

Just because your avatar is bigger, and has wilder hair doesn't mean my avatar couldn't kick your avatar's ass..

..you and your fancy 'movements'.. indeed..




M

I would definitely go back and check that injector connection....cold solder joint?

On another note, how did you manage to get that brass fitting back into the black plastic fuel line??? Isn't it pressed in?

i had to hacksaw and file one of the ridges off the brass fitting off, then i just inserted it right in with a [tight] hose clamp. i figure the brass fitting is primarily there to support the pressure of hose clamp anyway, and it doesn't seem like it's going anywhere.

i'll definitely go back and check my soldering job with the injector wires, but i'm dubious that's it because the car fired right up and ran smoothly right after i finished. here's the latest:

pulling the fuel pump relay allows me to start the car. it runs for a few seconds and then sputters out when it's out of gas. won't start with it in. so it's most certainly flooding, as vsg914 suggested. fuel pressure problems? all i did was replace fuel lines, and the car ran beautifuly before.

i DID have to remove the pressure sensor in order to have room to work, maybe i messed it up in the process?

does anyone know how to diagnose a pressure sensor?

nathan

p.s. thanks for your suggestions, please keep any advice you have coming

p.p.s. redshift: my beethoven avatar would kick your puny shakespeare avatar's ass any day of the week. you just name the place :finger2:

[quote=nebreitling,Jul 20 2003, 08:15 PM] [QUOTE=RustyWa,Jul 20 2003, 06:49 PM]

p.p.s. redshift: my beethoven avatar would kick your puny shakespeare avatar's ass any day of the week. you just name the place :finger2: [/quote]
No.... don't make mE ANGRY!!!!!

-crazy eyes-

AHHRRRRRRRGGGGGGG!

GRWAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!

-puts on footie pjs, and heads off to bed-

the wire connetor for the pressure sensor fits both ways.
maybe you put it back on upside down?

Andy

Whew... it's running and stable.

thanks for all your suggestions, they gave me the momentum i needed to keep my ass out there and track down the problem. i am always amazed at the knowledge on this bbs, and the willingness of people to share it.

in tracking my work and your suggestions, i found what i think was a faulty connection at the cylinder head temp sensor. but in the process, i cleaned up every FI connection i could find and renewed some hoses (what the hell). MPS seems fine, which is a relief considering the cost of those little buggers.

can anyone tell me why a faulty connection at the cylinder head temp sensor could cause the car to flood? ich verstehe das nicht

cheers and thanks,

nathan

May not have been the head temp sensor, or may have been. The fact that you cleaned up all the connections could have given you proper voltage where it needs to be, or replacing hoses could have given the proper vacumm. I had a head temp sensor that had an internal short once. It ran like s--t till I pulled on the wire then ran fine. I let go of the wire and s--t again. In any case, Glad your running.


Curt

If you disconnect TS2 from the FI harness...the ECU tells your fuel system to go full rich. Your car should not even start when full rich mode is engaged...

BTW - The MPS connector fits both ways... because it will work both ways.
Same for the injector connectors, cold start connector, and I think even the trigger points.

interesting.
i have to try that i always look up the numbers printed on the wires, compare to the wire diagram to make sure it's right.
of course by now i have mine marked.
so all those wires are interchangeable???

Andy

Yes Andy many of them are reversible without negative effect as mentioned. The trigger points connector is different, but I cant imagine what difference it makes which 2 cylinders gets half a squirt.

So is the air temp sender (TS1). ALl the rest are one way only and impossible to install incorrectly.