Full Version: Boxter brake swap
I think I have gathered all the parts needed. Anyone have any suggestions or advice before starting? Biggest question is what did you do for a parking brake??
Use a 911 e-brake and tangerine racing adaptor.
What he said.
- Tony
@drybry914
I have most if not all of the parts to ad the 911 e bake set up to 914 trailing arms. I can gather up the parts on the weekend and post a picture of what I have.
Bruce
I have most if not all of the parts to ad the 911 e bake set up to 914 trailing arms. I can gather up the parts on the weekend and post a picture of what I have.
Bruce
Thinking the boxster ran wider disks that my 944T/S2 setup I have but don't remember,I do know my brakes stop on a dime with 19mm ATE m/c.
The TR handbrake conversion IMO is the best,mine was done with 911 h/b assemblies but a PO inspired solution was rubbish.
The biggest problem is the internal handbrake is the shoe retainer which we don't have on our trailing arms like the 911 guys and must be welded on.
It is a 40mm spacer and if not fitted when you use the h/b when moving it demolishes the whole thing ...thanks OP.
Anyway do it right first time,good luck.
The TR handbrake conversion IMO is the best,mine was done with 911 h/b assemblies but a PO inspired solution was rubbish.
The biggest problem is the internal handbrake is the shoe retainer which we don't have on our trailing arms like the 911 guys and must be welded on.
It is a 40mm spacer and if not fitted when you use the h/b when moving it demolishes the whole thing ...thanks OP.
Anyway do it right first time,good luck.
I prefer using the early 911 e-brake for a parking brake.
As was stated previously, the anchor block really needs to be substantial and needs to be welded directly to the trailing arm and not just the backing plate. Mine have functioned flawlessly for the past 15 years and will lock up the rear wheels while in motion. I worked on mine until they would do that. My anchor blocks are 1/2" thick structural angle trimmed to fit and welded to the trailing arms. Eventually, I will do the same with my current GT clone project.
As was stated previously, the anchor block really needs to be substantial and needs to be welded directly to the trailing arm and not just the backing plate. Mine have functioned flawlessly for the past 15 years and will lock up the rear wheels while in motion. I worked on mine until they would do that. My anchor blocks are 1/2" thick structural angle trimmed to fit and welded to the trailing arms. Eventually, I will do the same with my current GT clone project.
Rennigade Hybrids just came up with an adapter plate for the Boxter brakes
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