2002 EJ25 engine showed up at the door this week. The wiring harness ended up not being included, ECU and O2 sensors should be on the way. Trip to the junkyard next week for the remaining harness and needed bits.

Right now I'm spending quality time going through the fsm figuring our excess wiring and drawing up the 'new' wiring system. Good times... about 100 pins on the ecu, sure am glad Scott lives nearby

So let's see... finish thesis, finish sheetrock and install hardwood, finish major service on R90, finish R75 cafe racer, transplant suby... I'm sure I'll be done by the end of August

QUOTE (mongrel-gs @ Jul 15 2005, 08:41 AM)

So let's see... finish thesis, finish sheetrock and install hardwood, finish major service on R90, finish R75 cafe racer, transplant suby... I'm sure I'll be done by the end of August

Yea,right three years and my V6 project isn't done yet ....good luck and keep us posted...

SteveSr

It looks like a fun project. I started my suby conversion awhile back but have been really busy. Keep us updated!

i want pics, notes and a duplicate harness mock-up as i too live near that thacher with the suby!

i have a perfectly running 2.0 but oh does that suby pull nice......

lots of high $ porsches in the dc/bethesda area that could use a nice surprise from a tiny little teener...... hehehehehehehe

Awesome! Another convert. Engine looks great! I'm using a 2001 2.5 motor, should be pretty similar. I bought a factory service manual that includes the wiring diagram and all the ECU pinouts. it helped immensely. I have a link to the site in my progress thread.

Post as much as you can, sharing the details is what will encourage more people to do these conversions.

-Tony

well scott, he has a slight advantage over you he is about 15 mins away from me. its funny i gave him a run around the neighborhood for 5 mins and after that he was not happy with his raby parts 2056 at about 120 hp, how did your 2.0 feel after the ride in my car

Thats odd- He never complained to me.

jake, he is not un happy with the 2056, he just wants more power than it gives. i am sure a 2270 built right would be very similar, and he would be happy with that. its like going from the 2270 back to a stock 2.0

Want torque? try my 3.8 liter V6.

Although the subaru will look more liek it belongs back there.

Wish i had a subaru in my Vanagon.

There are no problems with the 2056, i'm extremely happy with it. Jake, your parts and help were dead on, I didn't even have to play with the carb jetting. The problem I had was when I went from the ghia to the 914... ie the DTM didn't fit anymore. Plenty of power to move the 914, head temps never above 325, valves haven't needed adjustment since I broke it in with the ceramic lifters and swivel foot adjusters. Since the DTM isn't on anymore the oil temps are running much higher, the pancake cooling couldn't keep up with Baltimore heat/humidity. Played with external cooler and assorted ducting, no luck short of moving it to the front. Since I already had a friend who wanted me to build up a tiv for his Thing and he had bought my DTM, I figured I could get my 2056 in his on a short satuday since it is already modded for the shroud. Now I have an engine experiment for the 914, a tiv going in a thing, and the core I was going to build up for the Thing for another project... anyone up for a ride in a 2.0 sidecar racer?

Got a little work done this morning, flipped the intake manifold, mod the alt bracket. All wires fit fine except to the tps, tps wiring is lengthened to fit, and a little notch in the alt bracket allows the tb to fit in stock position. A little bit of dremel to the oil filler boss on the case where the intake manifold was bumping. Hard fuel lines under manifold needed to be removed since they were hitting the coolant housing, replaced with fi hose. Fuel rails were moved to opposite sides since the pressure reg was too close to the alt. After 2 hrs work, all that needs to be done is to fab up the other side of the alt bracket and the engine is done... on to the wiring and engine bracket.

Oh, okay....

You know my feelings though- If your gonna lay the balde to something may as well install a Chevy!

Do you even need to cut out any metal for a suby conversion? I thought the radiator could go in the engine compartment . . . .

for a ej22 or 25 conversion yes the radiator will fit in the engine bay. and the only cutting that has to be done is the front engine shelf to fit the radiator, but i took all the shelf out to make more room and to clean the bay up

Alt bracket is made. Old adjustment slide from a bus fan housing, some angle iron, and some grinding and it's done.

Off to pull a harness on Thursday... engine supplier forgot a few more bits that were supposed to ship so I need to find those as well. Still need to figure out if I can cut down the oil pan myself or if I should go with one from a vendor.



More images and details in blog...

I can't really tell from the picture, but did you have any clearance problems with the dipstick? I was messing around with the alternator bracket the other day and it seemed that the dipstick would get in the way.

-Tony

Just a little push on the dipstick to the right rear of the engine... as it was it was just touching the alt, now there is about 1" of space. Dipstick does not bind up afterwards.

The wiring harness is almost finished. Need to hook up relays, atm press sensor, and resistors. A few hints on the wiring harness...

1) invest in a dymo label maker
2) try your best to get engine supplier to send harness with the engine
3) be sure bulkhead to engine plugs and bulkhead harness are from the same model/year... for some reason yards like to cut right at the engine to bulkhead plugs... putting forester plugs on a legacy harness sucks up a lot of time and ends up with a color change in the harness wires
4) get a bigass roll of shrinkwrap

I need a little help on the atmospheric pressure sensor. I have waded through the wiring diagrams over and over and all I can find is the pinout info for the ecu. Does anyone which wire does what at the sensor? Choices are: signal, power supply, ground...

Here's the pinout for the atmospheric pressure sensor according to your diagram.

3 - ground (blue)
2 - +5 from ECU aka sensor power supply (red, no stripe)
1 - signal (red, with white stripe)


-Tony

edit: at least those are the colors for the MY 2001 harness. Pinout _ought_ to be the same, the sensor appears to be the same one.

Thanks Tony, the colors on my aps are wacky... forester colors, the pins should be the same.

QUOTE (Jake Raby @ Jul 18 2005, 05:08 AM)

You know my feelings though- If your gonna lay the balde to something may as well install a Chevy!

Jake,

I gotta agree with that sentiment. If you're gonna start cutting sheet metal, just keep going. A SBC conversion isn't a whole lot more involved...

-Josh2

i can understand the blade thing too, to a point but the suby can be installed and be done with no cutting of the front trunk, and only partial engine shelf removal in the engine bay. also the engine is a type four with 30 years of evolution

Looks like the install will start this weekend. I ran out of shielding gas right as I started to put the new pan bottom on, so I get to find a supplier in town today.

Tonight I'll finish up the pan, make initial welds on the engine bar, and weld up the rad frame. As long as nothing else puts the brakes on the project, the engine will be dropping by 9am tomorrow.

Evan

Looking good! Is that flywheel 200mm? Looks identical to the one I have.

-Tony

The fly is for stock clutch.

Well, no engine drop today. The wrong engine mounts showed up. I called the local suby dealership, none in stock, and $235 a pop. I think I'll make the old style mounts work.

Threaded the old style in, they fit but will need a spacer and a rework of the mount bar. The fun news is that upon theading it out, it brought the threads out with it... the good news is that appears that the thread pitch is the same as a helicoil that I keep in stock.

So far today... brazing an oilpan sucks, 5 benzomatic cans of oxy later I still have one pinhole leak. All the other little details of the engine are worked out, the rad frame is cut and to be welded in the morn... I may go ahead and drop tomorrow and fix the hell hole and put the new jack posts on... or get ready for thesis review, decisions decisions

Evan

gday fellas good to see another one in the making is the engine bar in question the renegade option Q; how close do the heads sit to the suspension pivot points ? on my conversion they are seriously close and i am actually considering bringing the engine back untill the manifold is only 10mm from the rear trunk "not sure if this is a good idea or not" will have to see what happens.

pulled the intake off last week and the problems that i thought that is was going to have, you have just kindly answered .

keep up the good work guys

nope heads clear fine, and the engine bar i believe is my design

Time for the install!

Blog has the to do list and some pics as of this morning. A few differences from scott's install. Had to mod the engine bar a bit to clear the rear of the oil pan since the drain is on the rear and to clear the Outback stubs. Found a crossflow muffler that I think is going to work, but I have the feeling it is going to be loud. Ecu is going behind seat rather than in trunk and battery will stay in the stock location. Everything is getting fused at the battery (to avoid those nasty fires that have been pictured recently). I never found the harness plug for the front O2 so it is cobbed together for the time being... if anyone definitely knows the pin layout on the 6pin front A/F O2 for a 02 Legacy A/T so I can doublecheck my hack, it would be great if you posted it here!

Any bets on ignition by tomorrow night?

Evan

What length belt are you using for your alternator?

I'd love to see pictures of the engine with the outback stubs and the modified engine bar. I will most likely be doing the outback stub for my exhaust as well.

Don't have any info on the O2 sensor unfortunately...

-Tony

renagade was at the GAF meet last weekend with a sub install 914 it looked very clean they make a complete kit for around $3000.00 if anybody is interested.

Bernie

i have less than 3k in mine including the motor

QUOTE (bernbomb914 @ Sep 13 2005, 11:23 AM)

renagade was at the GAF meet last weekend with a sub install 914 it looked very clean they make a complete kit for around $3000.00 if anybody is interested. Bernie

$1995 as listed on their website...

BJH

The $1990 price is for the motor mount and transmission adaptor. Add $1000 for their front mount radiator = $3000

Mongrel,
PM me if you need the wiring for the front O2 sensor. I am doing a WRX conversion in my garage right now, and the car it is going into is a MY00 2.5RS. It is no different than the MY02 Legacy. I have a ridiculous number of Subaru parts, including this particular Ej25 longblock with ECU and the engine portion of the wiring harness. And that is just a start. Don't want to sidetrack the thread, but if there are any random bits you guys doing Subaru conversions need (I have at least 6 pairs of engine mounts, for example) and about as many engines, and what ever sensors or connectors folks may need to customize harnesses . Just let me know...

Well, as I'm sure you guessed, work went a little slower than expected and I ran out of juice. Engine dropped, wiring cleaned up, hellhole cleaned up and replacement parts cut. That rust multiplied since I last looked. The engine will be installed by tomorrow night, no excuses! Scott T stopped by for a critique and let me get get some last minute glances at his set up, thanks Scott!

Tony,
5 rib 825 belt, although my setup could use the next step up(845 I think) so that tension would be at about the middle of the adjustment range. Trying various lengths 1.5" flex hose for the radiator. I'll get some pics up when I get the exhaust welded, need to pick up a couple of bends and flange gaskets.

I'm sure there will be more, but parts available for sale right off the bat are: 2.0 sse heat exchangers, banana muffler with O2 bung. I'll list the full details, pics, and items in the classifieds in the next few days.

I'm going to see if these imperial stouts recharge me and get back to work in the morn.

Evan

After many delays, the engine is in.

CONGRATS!!!! Looks good. I'm still quite a ways from that point.

Can't wait to see more!


-Tony

Gotta quit breaking tools, slows down work too much! 2" of water in the garage doesn't help either.

Engine bar and mounts are in. Sturdy as hell, I actually stood on the engine and bounced and the only flex appears to be the rubber mounts.

Exhaust is fitted but not welded. Wiring has been pulled and ecu will be in the cab, either under the passenger seat or behind the driver seat. I was hoping to use the 914 air filter, but not enough clearance so I'll use a universal k&n for the time being. Throttle cable is hooked up, nice and smooth. Pulled cvs and repacked. McMaster alu sound dampening on fire wall.

Tomorrow: fi fuel pump, rad surround tin, shift bar, weld exhaust, plug it in and see what happens. Hopefully it will be a daily driver again by wednesday.

exhaust finished, almost there...

Another day fiddling, and not quite there. Gotta motivate and pull that gas tank to rerun the fuel lines.

The Good News:

The Stock shift bar will work with only one modification. The coupling at the firewall is cut and rotated 45 degrees counterclockwise. No more clearance issue! It appears as though this should work even if the oil pan is not cut down.

With all that work, why not get madrel bent pipes, not those crush-bend exhaust pipes

Install looks nice though, I'm sure that 'thing' you're putting the 2056 in will be a fun ride!

This project is looking pretty cool. Can't wait to hear how it runs...

Jeff

p.s. What is the muffler you are using ?

Happy Dance Happy Dance!!!!!

That's one mean sounding mamma jamma!

Of course there are bugs to work out, throwing error codes like thats its job, a little hesitation off idle(o2 sensor i'm thinking).... but its growling! Damn it's mean, I think every dog in the neighborhood started barking.

No seats in, no shift knob, no carpet, spagetti in the cab, no rad tin, forgot to plug in the engine harness at the relay board and thought i had a fight on my hands, but... it fired right up first turn of the key when I plugged it all in, shot the (unclamped, unwelded) muffler tips off like rockets!

Shifts MUCH better than it did before... I think my shift bar must have been tweeked and the chop, weld, align fixed everything up.

Muffler: crossflow series 80 off a 69 camaro. Saw someone on the club used one on a v8, figured I'd try it out

Mandrel bends: bought the 180s, in a rush and could only find the 90s in crunch bends locally. I said the hell with it since the mig owner needs it back soon for a 51 ford choptop thats next on the project list.

McEwans tonight!

Evan

AWESOME!!!!!




I'm sure I'm not the only one who wants to see pictures and hear the sound of this thing!!

So what was was your total time for the conversion and how much did you end up spending?


-Tony

i am going over tomarrow to see/hear it i will bring the video camera

edit btw its scott typeing wrong person signed in opps

okay mongrel has the second radiator in the engine bay porscharu running. he still has a few things to do, but i will let him chime in. tonight he even took it around the block twice. his muffler setup is a little loud but not too bad.
attached is a video of it starting, running, and a little of the trip. the video is a rapidshare link, what you need to do is go to the bottom of the link and click on the free down load, you might have to wait for your turn.

video here

i apolojize for the pauses when nothing is going on, and for me sounding like a dork i have a minor cold and i am a dork. you will here it and see it move under its own power

Thing to finish up...

Electrics:
Assorted missing sensors giving error messages will be worked out with resistors. Ecu is mounted behind the center backrest pad. Relays and atmospheric pressure sensor are mounted under the passenger seat. MIL wiring issue was a minor mistake, an easy fix. No tach, need to check if the signal is making it there or if I'll need to figure out different tach method. Rad fans aren't running, I may figure out how to get the ecu signal to turn on the relay or make them an always on.

Mechanical:
Top radiator flex hose was kinked, spent the moring at the parts store finding a hose that would work. Finish radiator tin and scoop. Put rubber mounts under fuel pump. Source M18x1.5 to 1/8 npt adapter for oil pressure sensor. Finish buttoning up. Repair driver long, it was worse than I thought. Fix reverse lights.


It's a FUN ride. Scoot around town the rest of the week and then start putting some big miles on it.

If anyone has 4 spare steel wheel lugs they want to part with, let me know.

Very cool. Although you were driving pretty carefully, there was a moment there where you can see the car just jump forward -- look forward to a little more of that !!!

Sorry to hear about Scott being a dork.

A question, in the picture with the motor installed, were you able to fit a rad right in the engine compartment?!

Mongrel, congrats! Sounds great. Scott, thanks for posting the video so we could all participate in the excitement.

-Ben M.

I may have some old lugs for you..Let me check tonight.

BTW nice work. We should all meet up somewhere for a bite to eat before the cold weather hits...

and a BIG