So - this is weird.

I have a '75 2 litre. With a Momo Prototipo steering wheel fitted - I presume with a non-Porsche hub to suit.

I first removed the wheel in 2012 to replace the upper column bearing that had broken up allowing the column to short out and blast the horn in the middle of The Castro in San Francisco...what fun! Hubby was not amused!

Anyway, the first time I removed the wheel it was really stuck on the column and I think I just ended up using brute force to get it off.

In July this year I removed it again to fit an electric washer pump switch - being a '75 I used the intermittent flick switch to trigger the pump relay - and the wheel slid off like a knife through butter...

This afternoon - wanting to remove the wheel to fit LED bulbs in the instruments - the wheel slides about 4mm up the splines on the column then stops dead - like its hitting a spring clip on the shaft. It's a definite metal sounding clunking stop.

I'm completely baffled. It will not budge an inch past the initial 4mm and I'm reaching the point of thinking I'll break something - so Ive stopped to consider what I've missed.

Any ideas?

Whilst I couldn't get the wheel off, I still managed to get the instruments out far enough to change the bulbs - and they work! Thank-you 914Rubber :-)

John

I used a harbor freight gear puller on my stuck hub. Worked great, once I found something for it to grab on.

I got mine off - for the first time in 48 years - with very precise, evenly distributed blows (like head bolt or wheel lug tightening) to the base of the spokes with a deadblow hammer. It took 45 minutes of medium strength, short strokes - yes I grazed the column a few times, but the plastic coating of the hammer didn't hurt the column (as far as I can tell). I'm not recommending the technique above, but it worked for me as I had no pullers.

Not sure if this is possible; but could the it be the shaft is moving with the steering wheel and not the wheel sliding on the shaft? Seems odd a steering wheel would move then hit a hard stop and you cannot see what it is hitting. If the shaft is moving and the wheel is stuck to the shaft; I've had to start the nut on the shaft and hit it with an air hammer while someone pulls up on the wheel to break it loose, I just did that yesterday on a '70 VW Bus.

That makes sense Michael - I'll have another look at the weekend.

I think using a puller is preferable to a big hammer...

One thing to think about - keep the big nut lightly threaded on the steering wheel shaft while you do anything. When it finally lets go, if that nut isn't there, you may need a trip to the dentist...

I leave the nut screwed on to cover the threads on the shaft, then smack the shaft dead on. The shock will usually loosen the wheel.

I second this. But at the same time I’m applying some force from behind the steering wheel, with my knees.

An old dude showed me how they had removed them for years. Get the nut loose, but do not remove. Sitting in the drivers seat, grab right side of wheel and pull hard, release and pull hard on left side and release. Do this back and forth, right to left, pulling hard enough to mal shape the wheel but not to bend or break until it pops loose. Works every time for me, don't forget not to remove nut all the way.

thanks for all the replies - I didn't get to it today but will try tomorrow. I still can't believe it won't come off after sliding off in July - I must have torqued it down too much...