I cut my wrenching teeth on VW bugs and Type 3's back in the '70's and '80's. Been somewhat out of the game for several years looking to rejoin into the 914 world. Generally the easiest way for more kick is to increase displacement. Short of going to turbo's what is available as far as big bore kits. I am not interested in going the 6 cylinder route or chevy small block route. The car will be street only, but I need speed.

Welcome to the forum.

This is a well covered topic and search is your friend here. One easy thing to do is to Google “big bore engine 2256 914world.com” but drop the quotes when you paste that into Google.

Getting above 2.0L and having it last requires thought, effort and money. I’d start with what your goals are and how much actual budget you have, that will open or close doors.

Head over to shoptalkforum and dig into the type4um lots of good big builds there. like 2.7-3.0 liters from Raby and some other more plausible builds too.

Speed costs $$, how fast do you want to go. Universal statement

How fast and budget? A 2056 with 120-130hp can be built for $5-6k

Bleyseng just nailed it. Go with a 2056 and stock fuel injection with a mild cam and nice exhaust. Reliable, strong and pretty bullet proof. Heat is the enemy of these engines and going large displacement on a 4 is a recipe for engine death unless you spend the money to do it right and keep it cool.

Thanks guys, car I am considering is a carbed version 1.7. I will make the trip next weekend and bring her home if the rust is not too bad. Can these cases be used for a 2056 kit? I am very new to the 914 world. Been a 356 and 911 guy for many years.

Yes, the cases are the same. The 2.0l crank and rods are different but the same ones sre used in BW Baywindow buses. The 2.0L heads are totally different and the can be bought new from Len@HAM that are set up for HP. If you can find a Djet or ljet set up For Fuel injection thats one way to go. Carbs is another

I thought those are only available at lnengineering now and around $3,850, no?

New 2.0L AA casting are reworked by Len with all new parts. Roughly $1700 for a set which I am running myself in my 2056 engine. I have 44x38 valves too

how much more hp with len’s heads and the 2057 set up with d-jet? i can tell you after my first a/x weekend that while the 914 handed far better than most of the hot hatches there this weekend they best me by 5 sec or so and it has so much to do with the quick acceleration out of the corners, which i was sorely lacking—. very i interested in doing this by next weekend. i can run SCCA heritage , even with the 2056 as long as the case is the original stock case, can’t turbo it.

I set my car up for AXing and track use in 2004. The 120hp is nice but installing a shorter 3rd and 4th gears made the difference plus being able to rev to 6000 rpms. BUT a 914 in AXing isn’t about acceleration but carrying speed thru the corners. Money spent on suspension upgrades and tires makes a huge improvement

I used to AX my Miata as SCCA C street (stock) level in the 90s. Had the opportunity to ride with former SCCA Nationals winner driving my car. It was humbling. There was ton's of time left in my car. All about the driver, technique, and maintaining momentum. And that was with my lard as dead weight in the car too! 914's are no different.

no doubt i have a lot to learn!!! i am sure there is a some more time in the car and a few tweaks to be made . i let an instructor drive the car for a run and he was not used the the long throw of the clutch in a 914, but i watched his line and how he came thru several turns and braking points etc., so then my next run was much faster, inf fact i ran faster than he did, but that is just me knowing my car better than him. if he took it out for 3-4 more runs no doubt he would have knocked off a good 5-6 seconds i am sure. - hey i went out to learn and get a better feel for what the car can do, it’s very tight and well balanced, with the sport bilistein and 205/55-16 on 7” rear and 6” front, it’s super tight. i never slid or lost traction in front, just the rear on a couple tight corners, came in too tight on wrong line, but it comes back fast, i never felt like i was going to spin out or loose it, but i could feel towards the last run i was getting a good feel of how far i could push it. being only 3-4 seconds behind a couple of the mazda’s , bmw and suby in our novice class and looking at the times of the fret class drivers i can see it could be competitive
looking forward to seeing home much i can improve next year with learning how to adjust the suspension etc, like, if i dropped the rear one notch it would add an extra degree of negative camber and i think i could hold those tight corners a bit better.
any other suggestions are welcome !!

Now-a-days, you need to start keeping an eye on resale value. So many 914‘s has been chopped up and modified, that we are starting to see the purebreds are seeing some real numbers in resale, as they have never seen before. All I ask is that if you pick up at 914 that is stock, you don’t bastardized it too much… Find one that’s already been chopped and do your dirty work! Sorry - but I like ‘em stock. Too much street fun as they are. If I needed some speed, I’d be sitting in a WRX.

great advice for the O.P. and i take it as well., unless it is already too far out there already,

That's why I like a 2056 w/Djet as it looks totally stock, Sway bars and shocks can help alot in AXing plus bigger Tbars and rear springs.

".....I need speed...."


What does this mean? The 914 with a four jug will not be fast but might be quick and nimble.

Like Geoff said you'd have to play with the gear box for it to be really quick. If you want it for the street I'd say stick with the short stroke rods but go big jug....like a 1911 with L-jet.

Forget the carbs...bad idea

My .02 from experience.

PS.

Once you go flat six you'll never look back.

That has been my objective with restorations for many years. I have done minor modifications (always easily reversible) and always work towards getting close to factory specs. The specimen I am looking at appears generally stock, might even have original paint, but not taken care of for many years.

Just these days a flat six will totally empty your wallet just like a wooden boat.

Agreed.

However on the slippery slope of life what is more profound than the sound of a flat six behind you through a twisty road and or a well done Cris Craft Runabout floating down the river and lake of life. Besides a built four is two thirds the way to a six.

I'd agree nowdays with the post:

Keep the 914 stock and if you want a flat six buy a 986 or 987 while they are still reasonable.

You can't take it with you.....any of it.

Yes, keep em stockish as long as its reversible the world is yours as long as you have the money to spend.

A 914-6 clone might be in my future. I have been a Porsche guy since the early '70's, including two 1954 speedsters, #74 and #159 out of the production run of 200, These days a 356 SC, 1975 911S and 1987 turbo cab are in the stable. As retirement nears I am looking for a project needing some panel replacements. I have always had fun with oxy/acy welding, but these days a little Lincoln MIG fills the bill.

thanks to all for the feedback

If you have the money to build a 6 and put it in a 914 these days you likely have the money to do whatever you want to your 914. A quality 6 build for the engine and accessories is about the same as an entire new small car. Not a fancy one, but still...

Zach

As I currently find myself cash flowing a 2.4L rebuild I can only agree with your premise.

And your point is? For the price of a Lambo I could also buy a nice house. It's always been this way. When I was younger I desperately wanted a six but couldn't afford it back in the day.

When I had my first teener back in the late 80's I was broke and could barely afford to rebuild my 1.7L when it lost oil pressure. Actually, I couldn't afford it . . . and did it on a credit card since the teener was my daily driver at the time. Now later in life, I find myself in the fortunate position of being able cash flow it over time .

It's all relative. Spread out over two or three years, it doesn't hurt quite as much.

Who wants an entire new small car? I can see a somewhat built 2.4 or 2.7 tucked into the 914. Heading to pickup the "new"914 this weekend, its about a 6 hour ride (one way), but the price is right. I have worked hard and played my cards right for 50+ years so I suppose having some disposable income is fine.

I passed on my chance to install a six years ago with a 2.4 I picked up and then sold it to fellow member who installed it in a 914 conversion.
These days I'd just buy a converted 914 with all the stuff done, way cheaper.

Sure take the easy way out

For the cost of what I have in my 914-6 4.0, I could have a new GT4. But even when it is a limited production run like a GT4, it is still a sterile, no personality car that anyone can buy if they have the money.

My 914 is unique, and reflects my personality and preferences as to what I want. There is not another one out there like mine. Plus, when someone disses it, I can look them in the eyes and say....

"You bought yours, I BUILT mine."

True enough

Clay, at least two positive things: "you built it" and "as to what I want". Keep up the good work. If the funds are available, why not use them? Personally. I will be gifting my kids enough, if a six will be in the 15 - 20k range, who cares

BTW, I assume a 2.7 can be shoe horned into the 914 engine bay?

Easy peasy, its all the 911 stuff the must be installed ie oil tank, maybe oil cooler etc

Oil tank, Wiring, front mounted engine cooler, lines and fittings to get the oil back-and-forth to the front mounted oil cooler, thermostat, Engine 10 in seals , revised engine mount in some brain damage on the right way to approach that, exhaust, shifter set up and linkage, muffler...

It all adds up. Quickly. And in large amounts of cubic dollars.

"Easy peasy", I can work with that. If it was done 50 years ago, how hard can it be today. The $$ just need to be worked out it terms of enjoyment.

Thanks to all for the replies, we are scheduled to pickup the hulk this weekend and a 2.7 just might find its way into the bed of my F150. Its on the way and the right price

Go for it but keep in mind that mag case engines can be spendy to get fully/properly rebuild (if that is eve needed).

Keep us posted and good luck!

Well that escalated quickly.

Honestly, I think the stock 2L engine makes for a nearly perfectly balanced package for a street ride. It makes a light and nimble car with enough pep to put smiles on in the twisties, yet reliable, quiet, and fantastic mileage (easily 30+ mpg) for long touring. However, I seem to be a minority in this crowd in that I'm not addicted to HP and I HATE noise of any kind. Sure, a big four or a six would be a lot more fun for that 5% of the time I like to flog the car hard, but would come at the expense of enjoyment for the other 95%. That's just me though.

Yup. Very quickly.
In 5 days the OP went from a 1.7 /4 to a 2.7 /6.

There isn't anything wrong with that, and it seems like 930cabman may have at least a little experience restoring cars.

This build is going to have DWD though. Does not even have the car yet and already the "while I'm in there" has started.

Zach

You don't absolutely have to have a front mounted oil cooler. I don't have one. But you do need a bigger oil cooler if you want to put it in the back. The 4.0 has two 964 coolers mounted in the rear, one on each side. Temps run 190 to 210. They went up a little when I put the rear valance on.

For a 2.7, a 911 Carrera cooler mounted in the left rear corner works fine. I ran one on the 2.4 for years with no issues.

Yes, about 40+ years wrenching on mostly VW and Porsche. Years ago I did at least several rusted out 356's and Ghia's. Oxy/Acetylene was the standard back then, these days I have a couple MIG machines and have fun with them. A project car is in view and heading to pick it up tomorrow, sight unseen. in boxes. It is a 1.8 liter car, but have an extra 2.7in the shed. Maybe the easy route is to slightly build the 1.8 and go?

thanks to all for the positive replies

What ever you decide to do, enjoy yourself

DWD is Dirk Wrights Disease which a true story from the 90’s. Dirk bought a 914 found a problem and took apart the dash to fix it which lead to the total disassembly of the car. Never put it back together either

Actually, Dirk Wright took apart his pedal box in a perfectly good, running 914 because it was squeaking. He found minor surface rust under the pedals, and that started the "While I am in there" chain. He sold the car after completely stripping it to a shell.

Thanks to all, I brought the rusted hulk home Saturday and am scratching my head??? What have I gotten myself into now?? Rust on top of rust, but I was looking for a project. I have been reading several threads here but do not have a concrete plan yet. The specimen had been dis assembled about 30 years ago and stored in a garage since.

As far as the engine, a 2056 might be the lowest hanging fruit. It came with a 1.8 in several boxes. How hard can it be to get this mess together?

Do you REALLY want an honest answer to that question?

Pics of the car!

Don't even worry about an engine right now. Fix the body first. Or if its bad enough decide its a parts car and buy a better roller.

Doing the engine first is


Zach

Yes, need to get my daughter to help me get pics from my camera onto the site.

Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Got it, from what I can tell this one is a fair candidate. The frunt and rear trunks are decent, longs with front and rear connections are required as well as trailing arm mountings, ...... Yes, it's going to be an adventure

Click to view attachment

Is this whats known as the "hell hole", going to be a few hours in here

Whoah! You got a project on your hands.