I've collected all the part to start my jackpost repair.
Seems that Hans forgot to put holes at the bottom of the 'Teepees' covering the jackpost. I had checked them before (removing the rockers to clean up the dirt) and didn't notice this (paint was nicely covering up the rust). I bought a 911 jack thinking that it would be quicker to change the tires when I autocross. Well i heard a crunch when lifting the car. Oops. Caught it in time so no real damage done. (all this was a while back). I cleaned up the best i could and put POR-15 in that area. I'm now ready to take care of them.
Ok, I think i figured how to put the 'teepees' and the jackposts. I'll have to cut the teepees in 2 to do this. The is no way of installing them properly as the fender covers the top part of the teepee.
Anybody else tackled this before?
Also, I'm really concerned on what precautions I should take so i don't put the heater hose located in the longitudinal on fire? I really need them to be functional as heat is a must in my part of the woods.
TIA
Marc-André
Full Version: Jackpost repair dilema
Funny, I was just doing this last week (and the week
before, and before, etc
) You are right that
the supports don't seem to go in over the jack posts.
Not only that, but I couldn't grind or weld the top inch
and a half anyway. I cut off the fold at the top and
then didn't have any problem getting them on. Of
course, the real work was in the grinding off of the
old, and making sure I got all the bad parts wire-wheeled
and POR-15'ed, and using a small added plate to
hopefully make it as strong (that's not the right word
for a 914) as it was before. My welding looks like crap,
but it works for this type of thing.
I wish my car was 'totally rust-free' when I got it, but
this is the only bad part I've found; due to road dirt
laying around in there for a long time.
Can anybody tell me how stiff the car is supposed to
be when new or like new? Example: I always use
the rear donut to lift and it lifts both wheels. I actually
measured the gap change at the top of the right door
yesterday, and it went from about 0.210" to about
0.255" when lifted. (This is a -6, so heavier in the
wrong area here). Does this sound 'normal'?
Thanks,
Mark S.
'70 914-6
before, and before, etc
) You are right thatthe supports don't seem to go in over the jack posts.
Not only that, but I couldn't grind or weld the top inch
and a half anyway. I cut off the fold at the top and
then didn't have any problem getting them on. Of
course, the real work was in the grinding off of the
old, and making sure I got all the bad parts wire-wheeled
and POR-15'ed, and using a small added plate to
hopefully make it as strong (that's not the right word
for a 914) as it was before. My welding looks like crap,
but it works for this type of thing.
I wish my car was 'totally rust-free' when I got it, but
this is the only bad part I've found; due to road dirt
laying around in there for a long time.
Can anybody tell me how stiff the car is supposed to
be when new or like new? Example: I always use
the rear donut to lift and it lifts both wheels. I actually
measured the gap change at the top of the right door
yesterday, and it went from about 0.210" to about
0.255" when lifted. (This is a -6, so heavier in the
wrong area here). Does this sound 'normal'?
Thanks,
Mark S.
'70 914-6
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