Greetings all,

I have a 1975 2.0L motor that I'm rebuilding for my 74. The engine code is a GC. I am wanting to bump the motor to a 2056 (96x71) and have been researching cylinder and pistons kits. These kits range anywhere from $3200 to $350. My goal is to create a dependable solid running 914, not a race car or some hopped up timebomb that melts down in 10,000 miles. The engine will be fit with duel Weber 40 IDF's. Yes, I will be changing the camshaft to account for the Webers. So,....what recommendations should I consider for the purchase of these cylinders/pistons?

Nickie$ (stupid money)
Cast / forged
Hypereutectic
Biral liner
Stroker
JE Forged

Looking for your recommendations to help me determine the best value for this build.

Thanks in advance,
JWB

Click to view attachment

I have Keith Black pistons, bored oem cylinders(best way to go), raby 9550 cam, chromolly pushrods, 911 swivel feet adjusters, and stock heads with djet.
Runs great, lots of fun. About $4000 invested. 30,000 miles with no problems.

I went with AA. They stand behind their parts and they are ready to help with questions. This is the kit:

https://aapistons.com/collections/piston-li...ds-to-be-edited

I put in kolbenschmidt euro flat tops. No problems.

I used AA pistons and cylinders in Betty's car. The engine runs great with them.

And I bought them from WALMART.COM. At the time I ordered the pistons and cylinders, they had the best price.

When I did my 2056 I went with a setup almost exactly like Curt's here. Ran like a champ before I swapped it for the 2270.

You should have a plan, though. Most notably, what's your desired CR? That may impact your choice of piston with respect to chamber volume. I originally purchased AA with valve relief and biral coated cylinders. I then realized, belatedly, that I'd be better off with the Keith Black flat tops for my desired CR. The heads were prepped and ceramic coated by Len Hoffman. It ran incredibly cool with head temps rarely exceeding 290.

From what I read Nickies are overkill for most applications, especially if you're not exceeding 96mm.

For pistons, Keith Black with Hastings rings is widely used for this setup. I have a set in my engine and have been happy. Ring gap needs to be set obviously.

Cylinders, OEM German ones bored out is definitely a nice option if you can find a place that will bore them to spec to match the KB pistons.

Tolerancing issues have been reported in the past on the AA sets. You should measure every component when you rebuild anyway as a good practice. I hear Aicooled.net does a good job in checking the components they are selling but haven't bought from them. They have the AA line of product. Might be something to check with them as far as what QC is done.

European Motorwerks in Hawthorn (Jorge) can help you out. He's a reputable aircooled VW shop. I got my engine block and heads reworked there and got most of my parts for my build from them. The only thing I wasn't completely pleased with were the cylinders I got from them. The spacing between the upper cooling fins is not the as the OEM ones and they are not tapered. I have no data on the effect as I am not an expert, but I will go with OEMs bored out when I open the engine again.

Good luck with your build!

These days I am older and have a few shekels to float my hobby/illness. Cannot for the life of me can see an investment of $3+K in Nickies? Who would do this?

Guilty . . . though I didn't pay full song.

Secret project for GA004310. Oops . . . not so secret.

AA would be fine for the project.
Get some tools to measure the cylinders to ensure they are round.
Buy from a vendor you can return one and get it replaced till you have four round cylinders.
Enjoy the build.

Rich

I bought a set from AA with the biral liner for better cooling. I also went with the JE forged pistons because I thought about turbo charging the engine down the road. For now, I've decided to keep it naturally aspirated.

I've also got a AA flywheel and 2.0 heads. No problems with any of them, and I drive the car hard. Great quality, especially for the price.

Bored out OE cyls with KB slugs have served me well.

Appreciate the responses. The OEM cylinders are in decent shape and I'm going to explore having them bored out and weigh the cost between boring and new. Do I run the risk of warping/cracking or other concerns by taking that much material off to get to 96mm?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Here's the body after 15 months of rehab.Click to view attachment

Find someone who bores out motorcycle cylinders. Should be around $75 each. No risk on a 94 to go to 96. It’s a popular option because oem Mahle steel is better than modern Chinese aftermarket.

If you buy AA cylinders, make sure to check them for roundness.