So I suddenly lost all oil pressure doing 70 on the freeway.
After pulling of at next exit I find that the tube to the pressure sensor has broken off and let all oil spray out (no oil left in the engine).

At the moment I have to find a way to get the remaining piece of pipe out of the engine block, without dropping brass chips in the block.

I could then get another brass tube and reinstate it. However, it might be better to come with a way where the oil tube is not also responsible for keeping the sensor in place.

I’m thinking of making a short hose of some kind and creating a mounting bracket to the sensor somehow.
Would you be so kind to show me your solution?

Click to view attachment

It’s an oddball thread into the block. In google searches I found that this brake hose is supposed work. I just received mine like 20$ On eBay. I have received mine but haven’t installed it yet but it looks like it will work. They say there are some paint gun hoses that also work.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Hydraulic-Ho...4.m46890.l49292

A fixed mount like that is a recipe for disaster. Better off with a flexible hose. The argument is thread size. I can't remember, but grease gun hoses (1/8" PT) have been forced in, and some paintball gun hoses come in a metric size.
Since you already have the brass to the pressure port, an 1/8 PT should work.

Here's an oil pressure sender relocation kit I used on my yellow car a while back...

https://store.ngpracing.com/42-draft-design...cation-kit.html

EDIT: Looks like those kits aren't made anymore. IIRC, the fitting is M10 X 1 (not NPT). NPT is close, but enough off to not be advisable. Unless your case has already been tapped for NPT.

If the car ran for more than 30 seconds without oil, I'd be careful about starting it up again before checking things out.

The tube looked like the ones they sell at Home Depot (1/8 PT). Once I’m able to remove the piece that is still stuck in the block, I can verify the thread.

You guys have me convinced to go with a short hose.

At this time I have no clue if there is damage due to running without oil.
The dipstick is not picking up any oil. The temperature gauge did not show a height temperature. And the fan on the external cooler did not run. But maybe that’s because there was no hot oil to measure to start with.

Thanks guys.

I disagree.

I have successfully used hard lines for plumbing the oil pressure sender for years, but I don't ever make it that tall. The line will work harden from vibration and eventually crack and break. If you want to use a hard line, make sure it is as short as possible so the sender sits against the engine tin, then put a large padded clamp around the sender and anchor it to the tin. That won't work harden and break.

For what it's worth, the only failure I ever had was from a flexible line installed to hook up the oil sender.


Clay

It's an M10 tapered, but 1/8" NPT will seal fine.

On the other hand, it's a simple matter to run a 1/8" NPT tap in there, greased liberally to snag the small chips.

I do not like fixed mounts, for reasons stated above. I know that people have used it successfully but there's a reason that it's not acceptable for aircraft (and you experienced why).

The flex hoses are not expensive, and the sensors are easy to mount on the cooling tin.

brass stand off pipes will work harden and crack
many many people have learned this the hard way
you do not want to use pipes... the flex hose is the correct method.


they sell an M1.0 x NPT conversion fitting.
I bought one from somewhere.... belmetric ?
or use the NPT if you want

note: when you mount your sender on the end of the flex hose.
you will need to add a ground to your sender bracket as the sender used to ground through the pipe's you were using.

This is an age old problem
the flex hose has been the solution for 25 years

brant

I've always used a grease gun hose. Right off the shelf.
Then when fab up a bracket for fan housing.

I used a flexible brake line and clamped the oil sensor Click to view attachment