Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Electrical - Starting Issue
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
FUEL14
Hi, I have searched the forum for answers to starting issues, but I can't seem to find a thread for a problem exactly like mine.

The 3-year restoration of my car is about to come to an end, with a plan to be on the road early February. The wiring has been checked by a professional and modified/repaired where necessary. Everything was working great, starting no problem at all. But, just a couple of days ago, she turned over in the morning and didn't in the afternoon. Nothing was done to the car in between aside from a rear coilover adjustment.

When I turn the key to the first position, I can hear the fuel pump whirring and all lights, horn etc work ok. But when I turn further to crank, all I get is a single click from the under-dash fuse box area.

I installed a new battery as part of the restoration. The voltmeter is reading 13.4.

Any ideas what might have gone wrong?

Thanks in advance, Luke.
wattele
You have been working in the surroundings of the starter motor and solenoid.
Check the starter and solenoid for loose wires.

Succes,
Willy
FUEL14
Thanks Willy, but all the connections look good and clean back there.

QUOTE(wattele @ Jan 11 2021, 11:56 PM) *

You have been working in the surroundings of the starter motor and solenoid.
Check the starter and solenoid for loose wires.

Succes,
Willy

wonkipop
what wattele says.

only other thought is - 30 years ago i had a similar problem - sort of.
turned out to be the seat belt interlock system, which took two hacks at getting rid of.
i had had it disconnected which got rid of the initial annoyance of the stupid thing (most 914s had that done straight away when new). ie doing up seat belt to start car.
then there was a remnant of it left including a relay under the passenger seat (rhs).
that relay would kill the ignition randomly for start upwhen it warmed up to a certain amount (but the car ran if it was running, just killed the starter, you could roll start it).
does not sound like your problem. we tracked that all down and cut it out of the ignition circuit.

i have seen pics of your car and it looks like you stripped it apart.
i doubt there is any trace of that crazy system still in it?

sounds like we will be going for a drive soon?

check the transmission ground strap.
up near the muffler hanger end.
you could have knocked that or its not grounding.
FUEL14

We did manage to tie up all that gubbins under the passenger seat, so I'm pretty sure that's all good. I'll do some testing tonight to see if it's the ignition switch. If so, I'll have to rush one in AY-SAP. Fingers crossed, still on track for a February drive...

QUOTE(wonkipop @ Jan 12 2021, 11:19 AM) *

what wattele says.

only other thought is - 30 years ago i had a similar problem - sort of.
turned out to be the seat belt interlock system, which took two hacks at getting rid of.
i had had it disconnected which got rid of the initial annoyance of the stupid thing (most 914s had that done straight away when new). ie doing up seat belt to start car.
then there was a remnant of it left including a relay under the passenger seat (rhs).
that relay would kill the ignition randomly for start upwhen it warmed up to a certain amount (but the car ran if it was running, just killed the starter, you could roll start it).
does not sound like your problem. we tracked that all down and cut it out of the ignition circuit.

i have seen pics of your car and it looks like you stripped it apart.
i doubt there is any trace of that crazy system still in it?

sounds like we will be going for a drive soon?

check the transmission ground strap.
up near the muffler hanger end.
you could have knocked that or its not grounding.

ctc911ctc
This is a very common problem, unfortunately, there are a few weak links.

1. The Ignition switch is susceptible to burning-out. The starter solenoid sucks a few more amps than the switch can handle. Some people add a relay at the starter to fix this problem.

2. Seat belt switch - unless you are going to Carmel, get rid of it.

3. Starter Solenoid - the bendix starter has many weird starter solenoid troubles. I went through 3 cheap ones before getting to one where it would start reliably. I have a writeup on this within 914 world.

4. Junction Box - behind the driver seat is a box with a plastic cover (held down with a nut on a long rod down the middle) where the engine hardnesses and the ignition harness come together. Corrosion can be a voltage stealer at this junction. Can steal the umph necessary to engage the starter solenoid.

5. Chassis Ground - Make certain that the ground strap is connected, clean, and tight. Many stories about these being 'part' of a larger problem.


There are probably more, but that's what I got.

CTC
ctc911ctc
Here is the starter thread I started and referenced in this post.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=349483&hl=

ClayPerrine
QUOTE(ctc911ctc @ Jan 12 2021, 02:07 PM) *


4. Junction Box - behind the driver seat is a box with a plastic cover (held down with a nut on a long rod down the middle) where the engine hardnesses and the ignition harness come together. Corrosion can be a voltage stealer at this junction. Can steal the umph necessary to engage the starter solenoid.



Are you referring to the relay board?

Clay
Shivers
Hey Clay. Pretty sure that is what he means, behind the drivers seat in the engine compartment.
FUEL14
I still need help with this, please. But, I have some new information...

The problem is somewhere in the ignition switch/barrel area. See photos below for reference of my switch, inside my barrel and also the key, showing wear for reference (if that's relevant).

When I turn the ignition switch with a screwdriver, all works ok.. engine starts, happy days. When I assemble the switch into the barrel and turn with the key, it does not. When I turn the key in the barrel by itself when disconnected from the column, just holding it in my hands, things 'sound' correct. I mean, I can hear the key turning through the motions as it should.

So, something is preventing the key from turning the switch when things are assembled together.

Any ideas? Looking at the photo of the key-end of my switch, does that look worn out? Could that be the issue? Or maybe, is the tab in the barrel somehow not connecting properly?

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

wndsrfr
Take the assembly to a locksmith that's been in the business for a while....they can verify what's not right and likely make what's called a "code cut" key that will work perfectly....likely won't cost more than about $75 & take less than an hour.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2021 Invision Power Services, Inc.