Did a search, but came up short on this one. After a major improvement to all other mechanisms thanks to @McMark's excellent write-up here (thanks Mark!), I'm motivated to tackle the window regulators, too.

I think…

Good point Pete.
The early window mechanisms are a different kettle of fish.
The rollers on the front edge of the glass are big rattlers.
The rear guide attached to the glass has often fallen off.
The fuzzy lift wire.....lube or not ? ....with what ?
The piece pressed on the bottom edge of the glass often looses grip....
how to re-attach ? ....correct position ?
Chuck it all and replace with a later mechanism is a known solution but requires
modification and more parts.
Early cars have extra 'charm' for sure.

I believe the early window regulators are supposed to be oiled according to the service manual. It is a very interesting piece of (insert your own term). It is also very fragile.
Andy

I have lubed the door and window mechanism on my cars and it made a huge difference. The flap on the door latch breaks because of too much pressure on the pot metal castings. Cleaning and lubing greatly reduces the pressure needed to open the door.

Last time I had the doors apart, I followed the excellent thread above to a T—cleaning everything but the window regulators—and then applied white lithium grease. A few years later, everything was gummed up.

So I've cleaned everything related to the door locks again, this time with sparing amounts of Würth HHS and maaaaaan do the interior/exterior door locks work beautifully.

I'd like to address the window regulator before it breaks. Thing is, I recall scratching my head at the early regulators because they're a snake of some sort inside a tube. How do you clean something like that out?? Forty nine years and a recent re-pack with white lithium later, it's time...

Was gonna convert to later doors/windows/top when I painted the car last time, and was evaluating whether to adapt newer doors complete and make them "fit" the body or convert my doors to use the modern window guides/mechanisms like Paul Sayegh did when I found an NOS early top. So I decided to keep my original doors, somewhat reluctantly.

Will say newly refinished/re-anodized front window guides and new (or really good?) rollers solved the rattles, but I'd love to complete the job. Oh, and attaching the rear guide to a better driver's door window is on my list. Still scratching my head about that…

I need to reassemble both doors soon. I am dreading it. I have a broken regulator on the driver's side I need to deal with.

@horizontally-opposed

I spray the early regulators with brake of carb cleaner to disolve and remove as much gunk as possible then with silicone spray.
If the spring is very rurst I lay the regulator in a large container like are used for storing Christmas paper rools and soap in Evaporust. Same with the later regulators to remover the rust. Or you can wrap the regulator in rags and soak them in Evaporust overnite. If they are very rusty you can add a layer if shrink wrap over the saturated rags.

Thanks, Bruce! Makes sense, and may try this—as I will probably do the doors one at a time. With that said, I am hearing the best method is to find someone with an ultrasonic cleaning setup. We'll see—but I think the extra work will be worth it.

(Also, and this is a crosspost, I am hearing the best method for lubricating the door locks during a 914 door rebuild is Corrosion X, which is available on Amazon. YMMV, but I am going to give it a shot—as Würth HHS apparently also gums up and is very difficult to get off as it ages.)

Hi Pete,

I have used an ultrasonic for cleaning the door locks that attach to the striker.
Evaporust does a god job on them too. After plating They need a lot of lube and excersize. I have a few pairs already done if you want to swap your out.
All years are the same.


@horizontally-opposed

Thanks, Bruce ( @bdstone914 ), but i have replaced so many parts on this car I am beginning to rethink replacement vs preservation/restoration of what's still original to the car…not for value per se but just for me. And all of these parts are in really nice condition for their age and the car's mileage. Plating looks great, they work well, "acceptable" wear on the wear surfaces, etc. And once reassembled, they work beautifully.

I am really impressed with the engineering and overall quality of the "BOMORO" lock/latch assemblies, and love the crossed-out VW part numbers with new Porsche part numbers stamped into the other side. VW used quality parts in those days, something I couldn't say for my mom's VW pickup of just a decade later. The 914's door handles, inside and out, are less impressive, but have nevertheless done the job thanks to the Automotion door handle fix piece installed 28~ years ago.

Good tip on the Evaporust, as they stuff I used first time around was in a closet and smelled awful but did the job. Question: Will Evaporust remove or otherwise affect the cad plating, or merely help get the gunk out of everything as I clean these parts before relubing them?

Evaporust will pull off zinc and cad plating.
I have used it carefully if the plating is good with minimal rust. You can lets the parts soak for a short time to remove rust but not the plating.

^ Thanks—no rust on these parts, so I just need to find a degreaser. The last of my stronger stuff is gone with the first cleaning, and I must admit I've fallen behind on best stuff. Will poke around.