53.9 cc (turns out these are 1.8 heads)new 2.0 style chamber with 44 x38 valves and 57 CC cambers 9.0 CR
Cam Shaft /lifters RABY 9530. See Cam Card
KB 96 Pistons and rings (2.0 rods) EMW
H-Beam rods ARP bolts. EMW
2.0 Crank.25/ Standard /.25 rods
Webber 40 and 44 carbs
Short Pierce style manifolds 3/4 bolt
Malory Unilite Grey-Grey Distributor
Pete Weber 1 5/8 4-2-1 with Evo 2 muffler Tangerine 1 5/8 stub pipes and with 02 bung at collector
Innovate LM-1 with RPM
Balance internals
Balance Crank NEW lightened/flywheel and Pressure plate with blower
1.7 tins complete
9.0 CR with Deck height to .040
Recommend RPM range. 6200?
Est HP GOAL. 130-140 HP?
After a tear down of my 2.0l engine I started the build up to the 2056 big bore upgrade. Having a Bridgeport I started with the (5) 3/8 oil galley plug on the block halves Drilling a hole in the plugs and a slide hammer to remove the old plugs then started the installation of the new pugs I was able to order from Type 4 store.
Perhaps it is time to start a you tube channel for this...Hmmm
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 08:52 AM
Note to self:
Remove bearing alignment pins prior to power washing case of chips from machining oil galley plugs. Lost 2 pins
Mark Henry
Jan 19 2021, 09:22 AM
Not everyone has or wants dropbox, I didn't even bother looking. You can post pics here directly, you don't need a hosting service.
The plug on the rear of 1/2 side is very close to the flywheel, you have to make sure you're tapped deep enough, but you also must make sure to trim the backside of the plug.
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 09:43 AM
QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 19 2021, 07:22 AM)
Not everyone has or wants dropbox, I didn't even bother looking. You can post pics here directly, you don't need a hosting service.
The plug on the rear of 1/2 side is very close to the flywheel, you have to make sure you're tapped deep enough, but you also must make sure to trim the backside of the plug.
Great advise Mark Henry, I did trim a second pipe tap for "bottom tapping" and the single hole on the back near the flywheel does not have a cross feed passage so tapping deeper is not an issue
I did try to post my video here but were too big, so I m going to reduce the resolution on camera or video extension
Yeah, that is a pain trying to view on a device without an account...Ill fix that for sure
ddire333
Jan 19 2021, 10:17 AM
Will be taking on similar soon. I know it's recommended to upgrade the oil galley plugs, i'm wondering how much this is best practice vs required? If they the existing have stayed in place 45 years, what makes them more likely to be problem now?
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 10:31 AM
Required, I would have to say NO
Best Practice. I'm sure the oil pressure on the plug can get high when you are pumping 50 wt oil on a cold day with a 30mm t-1 pump..Loosing a galley plug or having one leak can be time consuming at least to fix the leak and cost you a rebuild if the plug comes out at worst. This is an EZ prevention and low cost, so I can not see why it would not be done while building
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 10:39 AM
deleted
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 10:40 AM
deleted
mepstein
Jan 19 2021, 10:41 AM
We had a plug come loose while switching in a used engine to replace a broken one. No reason for it to come loose but it did. It seems like the smart thing to do if you are rebuilding.
rfinegan
Jan 19 2021, 11:48 AM
Looks like the PO gouged the case pulling the front seal at least a few times....by the looks of things
Superhawk996
Jan 19 2021, 12:07 PM
QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 19 2021, 11:40 AM)
video was too big so . . . .
Post video to YouTube.
Once it's in YouTube you can link to it here with it's embed link from YouTube -- See FAQ. I've done it multiple times in my build thread. Can assist you if interested once you have it in YouTube.
Mark Henry, thanks for the tip on embedding , its been a while since I have done this kind of thing,,,
EZ when you know how Best Regards -Robert
Superhawk996
Jan 19 2021, 05:34 PM
Ta da! Nice work - just like an old pro now.
Looking forward to more on this build.
rfinegan
Jan 25 2021, 06:50 AM
UPDATE: Just received the Engine yoke for the HF stand from [url=https://ljaircooledengines.com[/url]. for under 40.00 (less shipping) bolted right on and woks fine with cheep engine stand or option to mount Desk top. ALSO. I purchased a set of used Early Weber 44 IDF carbs with the roller accelerator pumps ( Italian ) I think they will clean up nicely . I also have set of IDF 40 with 32 vents from previous build to choose for this build. The 44 IDF have 36 vents. The last set of 44 with big vents really made the top end on the 2L pull hard.
The camshaft for my 2056 is the VW Type 4 Porsche 914 912E Basic 9530 Cam Kit and leaning towards the IDF 44 carbs. But not sure what vents to start with? Should work well with the Kerry hunter heads and Evo 2 muffler (still working out the details for the heads)
Though I have built an engine on that type of yolk, its made for T1 engines and for a T4 engine it puts a LOT of stress on the engine case especially when the engine is more dressed.
The better kind had a ring to let the case bear against. There is a very expensive one ($300) and a cheaper on like I have that has three spokes and a 1/2 ring. And for the life of me I can't remember who made mine. :/
Either way, I would not use that yolk for your engine build. Its rolling dice. You may be fine, or you may have a broken case. At the very least, weld a 1/2 ring around it for the case to bear against.
Zach
rfinegan
Jan 26 2021, 08:08 AM
Thanks for the Tip: I think I am going to use the yoke for the initial build of the lower end (crank and rods, bearings and engine halfs)
When the Pistons come out and the Cylinders/heads. It bench work from there
Best -Robert
QUOTE(VaccaRabite @ Jan 26 2021, 06:00 AM)
Though I have built an engine on that type of yolk, its made for T1 engines and for a T4 engine it puts a LOT of stress on the engine case especially when the engine is more dressed.
The better kind had a ring to let the case bear against. There is a very expensive one ($300) and a cheaper on like I have that has three spokes and a 1/2 ring. And for the life of me I can't remember who made mine. :/
Either way, I would not use that yolk for your engine build. Its rolling dice. You may be fine, or you may have a broken case. At the very least, weld a 1/2 ring around it for the case to bear against.
Zach
ValcoOscar
Jan 26 2021, 08:22 AM
QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 25 2021, 04:50 AM)
UPDATE: Just received the Engine yoke for the HF stand from [url=https://ljaircooledengines.com[/url]. for under 40.00 (less shipping) bolted right on and woks fine with cheep engine stand or option to mount Desk top. ALSO. I purchased a set of used Early Weber 44 IDF carbs with the roller accelerator pumps ( Italian ) I think they will clean up nicely . I also have set of IDF 40 with 32 vents from previous build to choose for this build. The 44 IDF have 36 vents. The last set of 44 with big vents really made the top end on the 2L pull hard.
The camshaft for my 2056 is the VW Type 4 Porsche 914 912E Basic 9530 Cam Kit and leaning towards the IDF 44 carbs. But not sure what vents to start with? Should work well with the Kerry hunter heads and Evo 2 muffler (still working out the details for the heads)
I have some new leftover IDF Weber 44 pcs like stacks, gaskets, filters & rain hats.
Yours for FREE, you pay shipping.
PM me if interested.
Oscar
rfinegan
Jan 26 2021, 08:24 AM
Woohoo..thanks Oscar
QUOTE(ValcoOscar @ Jan 26 2021, 06:22 AM)
QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 25 2021, 04:50 AM)
UPDATE: Just received the Engine yoke for the HF stand from [url=https://ljaircooledengines.com[/url]. for under 40.00 (less shipping) bolted right on and woks fine with cheep engine stand or option to mount Desk top. ALSO. I purchased a set of used Early Weber 44 IDF carbs with the roller accelerator pumps ( Italian ) I think they will clean up nicely . I also have set of IDF 40 with 32 vents from previous build to choose for this build. The 44 IDF have 36 vents. The last set of 44 with big vents really made the top end on the 2L pull hard.
The camshaft for my 2056 is the VW Type 4 Porsche 914 912E Basic 9530 Cam Kit and leaning towards the IDF 44 carbs. But not sure what vents to start with? Should work well with the Kerry hunter heads and Evo 2 muffler (still working out the details for the heads)
I have some new leftover IDF Weber 44 pcs like stacks, gaskets, filters & rain hats.
Yours for FREE, you pay shipping.
PM me if interested.
Oscar
VaccaRabite
Jan 26 2021, 08:34 AM
QUOTE(rfinegan @ Jan 26 2021, 09:08 AM)
Thanks for the Tip: I think I am going to use the yoke for the initial build of the lower end (crank and rods, bearings and engine halfs)
When the Pistons come out and the Cylinders/heads. It bench work from there
Best -Robert
The entire engine should be built on the engine stand. You don't want to build 1/2 an then un-bolt it. And you really don't want to build the engine on a bench top. Being able to rotate the engine is very important especially when you are doing valve train geometry.
Here is the GOOD 5 arm kind over on Ebay for under $100. You should buy this before you go much further and the engine gets heavy and awkward to mount.
I can't find who made mine (EMPI maybe?) and I can't google it up so it may no longer be available. On mine you had to cut the head off the engine stand and weld on the head that came with the yolk. No big deal.
Just don't use the kind that you have.
Zach
Mark Henry
Jan 26 2021, 12:24 PM
You can bend up and weld in another arm and make a 1/3 ring out of some bar stock. If you do, weld the 3rd arm in off-center as it could interfere with installing the one piston pin. I built or modified 5 out of the 7 stands I now have, one is for 996/7 and I'll be building another MY96 shortly. Note this interference issue might just be type one, or is it 911....I forget offhand.
rfinegan
Jan 27 2021, 09:09 AM
Today I started the engine balancing of the pistons. These are Keith Black 96 mm Pistons and were pretty close.
1) Weigh the pistons and list lightest to heaviest 2) Weigh the piston pins and list lightest to heaviest 3) Match pins to rods for average weights
All in grams
Pins: 1)104.85 2)104.82 3)104.75 4)104.93
KB Pistons
1)397.63 2)399.16 3)398.30 4)397.90
Final Piston and pins (after a little work)
1) 502.46 2) 502.70 3) 502.70 4) 502.69
For those with time on their hands , Will get the last .2 grams on the next pass of balancing because I have Free Covid time at home
I did mine by machining an ID chamfer on the pins in the lathe. easier set-up
rfinegan
Jan 27 2021, 06:57 PM
Tuning on the Piston pins is a great plan.. I decided to keep the pins neutral and easily swapped on replacement, tear down or inspection if needed.. Great tip for next time -Robert
930cabman
Jan 27 2021, 07:23 PM
I was watching this thread close, until my recent purchase of a nice new oil tank and engine tin combo from MB911 for a /6 conversion. Guess I just ratcheted things up a bit. I will still be watching though
Thanks for posting
rfinegan
Jan 28 2021, 04:18 PM
Today started making a test fixture for Split weight connecting rod measurements .Big end , small end ,and gross weight. Big + small = Gross If we have no loss in the set up ( easy enough to check) I purchased my Rods from http://www.europeanmotorworks.com/pvw/024-...0%22+-+Set+of+4 after preliminary testing they seem good out of the box (only weighed the Big ends so far) The gross weight on the rods seem to be within +- 1 Gram on a kitchen scale (mine scale goes t o. 500 grams with a resolution of 0.01 grams) so I had to borrow my "cheff" son's scale
Big ends weight :
1)251.62 g 2)251.56 g 3)251.30 g 4)251.40 g
Small ends weight:
1)177.87 g 2)177.65 g 3)177.41 g 4)177.44 g
The ARP bolts seem to be with .07 grams of each other
I have the internals all sorted and balanced and turning to the Crankshaft , Flywheel and pressure plate, and fan. I decided I WILL have each Zero balanced dynamically and together. This needs special equipment typically found a good speed shop/ machine shop. I think I have a local source.
I decide on a new flywheel. I have 2 older ones that look pretty good , but finding the spec the minimum machine to thickness shows some ?? Is the minimum 9mm or 11 mm (0.354331 or 0.433071 ) The two I measure came in at about the same @ 0.355 ( this would be minimum ) and should not be cut again. With the new one on the way I will measure the same way and post back my findings. No sense balancing a flywheel that will need to replaced in the near future or next clutch service.
The crank is still standard on the journals. I will get a light polish on them to get them ready for the new bearings.
rfinegan
Feb 2 2021, 04:46 PM
FWIW:
While waiting on the next round of parts and machining....
This 1.7 to 2.0 to 2056 upgraded started with a little knock at idle. With some hard street use the noise/knock increased. In a time, over 2 years and 20 to 25 k miles later I found bearing babbitt in the oil strainer. Thinking this was a rod knock that I was unable to isolate but pulling the spark on the rod with the noise. And the fact I now KNOW it was a bearing failure at this point the engine was pulled an retired and a stock 2.0l with Factory Djet was installed in its place
This replacement engine runs good and starts in all weather on first try but the fun spirited driving was missed, so the tear down started on this 2.0l weber carbed track engine and this turned out to be the only failure noted so far
The Cam thrust bearing shown above has no babbitt material on the timing gear side. The cam was walking back and forth with each change of engine load. Under power it seemed OK. So while in there the plan to swap cam and bearings, this now turn into new pistons and rods. Now a full 2056 with rods cylinders pistons, lifters and heads. fuel by Kerry Hunter headers and Evo ii muffler and webber 44 IDFs. And to help ensure this failure is not going to happen any time soon an double cam thrust bearing is already in the purchased parts box.
rfinegan
Feb 4 2021, 06:22 PM
Tonight I had some time to kill....
Matched balanced the flywheel bolts, pressure plate bolts and rod bolts( these were really close already). All to .5 gram or better. Now I do not have to number the bolts when I send the crank flywheel and pressure plate and fan for balance. The bolts can be installed in any of the holes and balance will be maintained.
Nice set-up for end to end balancing.! I tried using a much less sophisticated technique and gave up as i couldn't repeat results, just did overall rod weight balance
rfinegan
Feb 5 2021, 03:08 PM
Today: Some of my parts are arriving....
My Flywheel shipped from LJ engineering , Pressure plate and disk are in transit and this arrived today;
But was too good a deal to pass up! With Weber tuning this will give the user a MAJOR leg up, and save me the inverstment cost in jets and parts!
rfinegan
Feb 13 2021, 05:48 PM
Fly wheel arrived from http://ljaircooledengines.com I was inspired by Jake to shed a few LBS. Here is the untouched fly wheel on the lathe. It came in at a healthy 18.7 pounds before I started in on it...
Started trimming my 1.7 rockers for Elephant Foot rocker adjusters for 911. More on that to come....
rfinegan
Feb 13 2021, 06:00 PM
Waiting on pressure plate before I can balance the rotating assembly
BeatNavy
Feb 13 2021, 06:54 PM
I hope you're enjoying the process. I enjoyed it and it was really gratifying when it fired up and ran like a real champ (after I fixed the broken rings).
I'm following your progress, and here's hoping you are stoked with the outcome
rfinegan
Feb 13 2021, 07:45 PM
Thanks my friend, It has been as much fun sharing the process with the "World" as leaning how to do it your self. I am still on track for Spring start up, and still on track for my expected Hp of 130hp (+- )
Was the top ring gaped too tight? What did you gap your rings at to resolve your issues? KB pistons? and about 002 -003 piston to cylinder clearances?
My heads are on the way to Jorge at EMW and looking forward to getting them back soon..(lots of good stuff to share)
Best -Robert
QUOTE(BeatNavy @ Feb 13 2021, 04:54 PM)
I hope you're enjoying the process. I enjoyed it and it was really gratifying when it fired up and ran like a real champ (after I fixed the broken rings).
I'm following your progress, and here's hoping you are stoked with the outcome
rfinegan
Feb 13 2021, 08:08 PM
Great advice. I have an aluminum 1/2 starter ring from a VW that I plan on supporting the bottom 1/2 (BOLT ON) with at least 2 more supports. Should not be too hard to fab up. I will post pics one I get it set up. SHOULD be inexpensive solution. Free to me
-Robert
QUOTE(VaccaRabite @ Jan 26 2021, 06:00 AM)
Though I have built an engine on that type of yolk, its made for T1 engines and for a T4 engine it puts a LOT of stress on the engine case especially when the engine is more dressed.
The better kind had a ring to let the case bear against. There is a very expensive one ($300) and a cheaper on like I have that has three spokes and a 1/2 ring. And for the life of me I can't remember who made mine. :/
Either way, I would not use that yolk for your engine build. Its rolling dice. You may be fine, or you may have a broken case. At the very least, weld a 1/2 ring around it for the case to bear against.
Zach
rfinegan
Feb 14 2021, 01:05 PM
Decided to change things up a little today. I decided to modify my oil baffle/widage tray. A few guesses where to places oil returns to keep the push rod tubes and valve covers full of oil during sustained high revs and let the oil drain back a little more freely. Opened the center louvers for the same reasons. I guess there is not wrong way to do this. But some mods are better then others depending on what you are trying to improve.
Stock tray keeps the oil from sloshing pretty good , but drain back suffers with "Hi revs" . Early engine 1.7 did not have this?
Step bit Cordless drill Sceatch owl (to her find the locations ) Cut off wheel in die grinder Debur tool Polish /Buffer on angle die grinder
I may have done this different on my second Mod ..but learning here as I go...
Trimming the 1.7 rockers for 911 elephant feet swivel tips. THESE ROCKER ARE HARD.
I had a 5/8 carbide ends mill to take 0.060 off the bottom of the rocker tip. Then used a 90 degree carbide chamfer bit ( carbide too) to cut another 0.060 bevel to allow the tip to rock when close to the rocker tip.